chim
Elite Member
I've seen frequent comments regarding using RFM's set lower in the front. I always use the same spacers on all four gauge wheels. Apparently level is acceptable by the manufacturer or it wouldn't be the first of two choices. One would assume that level wouldn't be listed if it matters.
From the LandPride O&M:
6. Measure clearance from the blade cutting edge to the
ground at the front and rear of the mower. These two
measurements should be equal or the blades at the
front should not be more than 1/2" (13 mm) lower
than the blade at the rear. The rear blade should not
be lower than the front blade.
I still believe the OP's results are from cutting grass that's too high. I've had similar results. The blade is not slipping and the raggedy grass is the width of the tractor tire - not the blade length. When the grass is too long and gets pressed down, the blades can't pull it up straight to be cut the same height as the uncompressed grass next to it. Look at the OP's picture "KIMG0711(1).JPG" where the cut grass is almost touching the bottom edge of the deck.
The only place the cut grass is taller than the bottom of the deck matches the path of the rear tractor tire. Next - and I'm guessing here - the reason the condition shows up on the right side is due to the deck being right-side discharge and the right blade lost a lot of its vacuum strength because it's being choked with all the clippings from the other blades.
The optimum PTO speed for my decks varies according to conditions. There are times during the mowing season when the grass is tougher, or juicier, or drier, or less dense, or thicker. Most of the time something around 400-ish PTO RPM's is good. Adjustments to both tractor and PTO speeds make a difference since the grass is a living plant adjusting to different weather conditions.
Marking belts and pulleys is an unnecessary exercise. Unless the belts have cogs that lock into matching parts in the pulleys (like chains and sprockets) they will definitely not stay aligned.
From the LandPride O&M:
6. Measure clearance from the blade cutting edge to the
ground at the front and rear of the mower. These two
measurements should be equal or the blades at the
front should not be more than 1/2" (13 mm) lower
than the blade at the rear. The rear blade should not
be lower than the front blade.
I still believe the OP's results are from cutting grass that's too high. I've had similar results. The blade is not slipping and the raggedy grass is the width of the tractor tire - not the blade length. When the grass is too long and gets pressed down, the blades can't pull it up straight to be cut the same height as the uncompressed grass next to it. Look at the OP's picture "KIMG0711(1).JPG" where the cut grass is almost touching the bottom edge of the deck.
The only place the cut grass is taller than the bottom of the deck matches the path of the rear tractor tire. Next - and I'm guessing here - the reason the condition shows up on the right side is due to the deck being right-side discharge and the right blade lost a lot of its vacuum strength because it's being choked with all the clippings from the other blades.
The optimum PTO speed for my decks varies according to conditions. There are times during the mowing season when the grass is tougher, or juicier, or drier, or less dense, or thicker. Most of the time something around 400-ish PTO RPM's is good. Adjustments to both tractor and PTO speeds make a difference since the grass is a living plant adjusting to different weather conditions.
Marking belts and pulleys is an unnecessary exercise. Unless the belts have cogs that lock into matching parts in the pulleys (like chains and sprockets) they will definitely not stay aligned.
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