Finish Mower

[gpaintjr]

Came across a new (used) 6' finish mower today. 18 months with the tractor and still a lot to learn. How do I use this thing? I do know the basics but don't know how fast to pull it or how high rpm's. Can I turn with it on the ground or does it need to be off the ground? 84 hours on this tractor and have not tore it up yet.

 

[JoeL4330]

Well, you've identified it correctly ...a finish mower. Presumably it's connected to your PTO, so to use it your RPMs should nominally be set at 540rpm. It should be adjusted for height of cut by moving spacers on wheel shanks above or below their respective "receivers" ...don't scalp the lawn ...and, presumably it has an "anti-scalp" roller on the front?

As for turning when mowing normally, sure, turn w. mower on ground ...but don't turn too sharply or you can easily unseat the tires from the rims and, incidentally, the tires should be checked and filled each time you mow ...probably 50-60 psi, whatever is max pressure on the tire.

The exception to the mower-on-the-ground rule is never, never back up with the mower on the ground ...because of the caster on the wheels, this puts strong, undesirable forces on the wheels and is probably the best way to roll the tire off the bead, which is highly undesireable (been there, done that ...learn how to put a cinch-strap around the tire to re-inflate/re-seat). Flat tires are a pain and if you have thorns, nails, etc. you might want to put flat proofing goop in the tires ...after the first few flats.

Presumably the top link (and, for that matter, the side links) on the mower swing, so that the mower can be compliant with uneven terrain (within limits). Mowers can eject deadly things at high speed so know who/what is in the discharge path.

When turning, note that the mower in the rear describes a broader arc than the rear wheels (just like your loader does in the front).

One other thing: if you mow down steep slopes 4wd is a must ...when you lower the mower to cut, it takes that counterbalancing rear weight off the rear tires, and can unload them enough so they have no traction ...and you have no braking, engine-wise or otherwise unless you are in 4wd (been there, done that ...a "Nantucket sleigh ride" ...it is counter-intuitive, but if you find yourself in this position, RAISE the mower)

Yet one other caution: when the mower is raised and engaged (i.e., turning, say, when you are backing up or turning sharply) you don't want it too high so that the PTO shaft angle is too severe because universal joints don't like this much.

 

[oliver28472]

The mower tires probably don't take air. Also they should swivel and track in whatever direction you are traveling, whether it's forward, reverse, left or right. I back up with mine on the ground and have never unseated one yet. Been doing this for years. Other advise is good.

 

[DK35vince]

Can I turn with it on the ground or does it need to be off the ground

Yes, you can turn with it on the ground.
With my rear finish mower I just set it on the ground and go. Forward, backward, turning.

 

[MJPetersen]

Well, you've identified it correctly ...a finish mower. Presumably it's connected to your PTO, so to use it your RPMs should nominally be set at 540rpm.

What is meant here, is that the engine RPM should be set at the RPM that produces 540 on the PTO. This will usually be noted on the Tach. Normally it is wide open and then backed off just a smidgen.

Now you just have to wait for grass to grow!!

Mike

 

[gpaintjr]

Thanks for all of the replies. When the grass does grow and it won't be long this thing will be put to the test. I am amazed at how much work (fun) you can do with a tractor. George

 

[Squeak n Itch]

Right now is a great time to sharpen those blades. Remember this is a finish mower and the idea is to cut the grass not beat it to death. Too many folks think of these machines as brush hogs and ignore sharpening the blades. I try to sharpen mine at least twice during the summer. The leading edges of the blades do a ton of work. Overcoming dull blades with horsepower is the same as sewing with a dull needle and using pliers!

 

[CDsdad]

While your sharpening blades, there are several other things you can also do. Grease the blade spindles, caster spindles that the wheels ride on, and the wheel bearings themselves. Also check belt tension and gearbox oil for correct level and no water. I like my RFM, saves a lot of time. And if you don't have a front roller, and your yard is not flat or level, they are money well spent.

 

[prosperity]

I'm glad this subject came up.

I came across a deal I couldn't refuse on a Deere 272 finish mower.

Now, I've mowed with belly mowers, zero turns, and bush hogs, but never a finish mower.
What bothers me about this unit, is not having gauge wheels on the front of the mower - only rear wheels.

I can assume that I should set it up like I do my bush hog - setting the rear wheels to the proper height, then adjust my 3 point arms to make the mower level. Just wonder about scalping with the front of the mower on uneven ground.

I really wish this mower had front wheels, but for the price I paid, I guess I will live with it.

Am I thinking right with my setup plan?

 

[EddieWalker]

Odd that it doesn't have front wheels, but I guess there is a reason for it.

I found that going from a rotary cutter to a finish mower, that keeping my top links as loose as possible really helps the wheels stay on the ground better. I have it just as loose as I can and still be able to lift the mower if I have to. Then, unlike the rotary cutter, I just drive along and let it cut. Those four wheels at each corner do a great job of keeping the blades at the right height and there's nothing for me to do but enjoy the day and not drive into anything.

My tires are air filled, so that's an issue I plan on addressing this year. I've had numerous flats and each time, it's something silly. I will replace each tire with solid ones this year as I'm tired of ruining a days mowing because of a flat tire.

I put new blades on mine as the ones it came with were beyond sharpening. I grease it every time I use it and haven't had any trouble with it.

I think mowing speed is dependent on the type of grass you have, how thick it is and how much HP your tractor has. I cut at a fair speed and high RPM's to get the finish that I like. When I hit an area that is thicker then others, I down shift a gear and go through it slower. Other then what gear I'm in, the RPM's area always the same.

Eddie

 

[greg_g]

While your sharpening blades, there are several other things you can also do.

And make dang sure that - after sharpening - you balance the blades before bolting them back to the spindles. It's a lot less work than replacing bearings or whole spindles down the road.

//greg//

 

[greg_g]

Odd that it doesn't have front wheels, but I guess there is a reason for it.

Yup. that's cuz it's not all there. From what I can see of the 272 on the John Deere site, that mower is only compatible with selected JD models AND the JD iMatch AutoHitch system.

See John Deere Utility Tractor Attachments and Accessories

//greg//

 

[Runner]

The JD 272 is all there. Here is a pic of a guy's 262 from this site.
In some ways, I'd like to have a RFM like that because it puts more weight on the rear of the tractor (half the weight of the mower, at least) which would be helpful for traction purposes. On the other hand, you are relying totally on that one little anti-scalp roller in the middle instead of on all four corners like you would have on a regular RFM.

 

[firemanpat2910]

I found a set of solid tires at Home depot for a dolly, or hand cart that were the correct outer diameter.They were like $9.00 each, made my own little axles with bushings, not to percise, just lets me replace the bushing( if I catch it in time) instead of the whole wheel assembly.

 

[greg_g]

The JD 272 is all there.

No, according to that John Deere link, the iMatch/AutoHitch is required to compensate for the otherwise missing front gauge wheels. Your photo link shows the 262 (261 maybe?) is attached to an iMatch, and - presumably - the AutoHitch.

Prosperity's profile says he has a JD2520. The website link I provided suggests the 272 mower is not compatible with the 2520. So does this one: Attachments for John Deere equipment

//greg//

 

[prosperity]

No, according to that John Deere link, the iMatch/AutoHitch is required to compensate for the otherwise missing front gauge wheels. Your photo link shows the 262 (261 maybe?) is attached to an iMatch, and - presumably - the AutoHitch.

Prosperity's profile says he has a JD2520. The website link I provided suggests the 272 mower is not compatible with the 2520. So does this one: Attachments for John Deere equipment

//greg//

Humm - maybe not such a good deal after all.......

Although I see what you are saying, I don't see why I couldn't use it with just the standard 3 point hitch on my 2520. I would think the 3 point hitch would carry the mower the same as an IMatch would - or am I missing something?

 

[prosperity]

I was wrong - sorry for any confusion....

After looking at photos of the 272 on the net, I noticed that some have the front gauge wheels, and some don't - maybe depends on the model year...?

Anyway, I made a phone call to who I am buying from, and they confirmed that the mower I am buying does have the front gauge wheels, as pictured here:

So, still hoping that it will hook up OK. I do have the Pat's hitch system on my tractor, so hopefully that would put the mower rearward some to avoid any interference.

 

[greg_g]

I do have the Pat's hitch system on my tractor, so hopefully that would put the mower rearward some to avoid any interference.

Glad you got that sorted. But this second photo still has me wondering how how the front cutting height is adjusted.

Since you mentioned having the PEC system on your lower lift arms, take particular care in making sure the PTO shaft is not too short. You want absolutely no less than six inches overlap between inner and outer shafts when the mower is on the ground in the working position. If it's too short, you might have to buy a PTO adapter. Not to worry though, they're only about twelve bucks.

If that 2nd photo is actually your new purchase, the solid gauge wheels will dispense with any worries about rolling the tires off the rims (not to mention no flat tires). The downside is that they make the deck bounce.

//greg//

 

[radman1]

I was wrong - sorry for any confusion....

After looking at photos of the 272 on the net, I noticed that some have the front gauge wheels, and some don't - maybe depends on the model year...?

Anyway, I made a phone call to who I am buying from, and they confirmed that the mower I am buying does have the front gauge wheels, as pictured here:

So, still hoping that it will hook up OK. I do have the Pat's hitch system on my tractor, so hopefully that would put the mower rearward some to avoid any interference.

I don't see why it won't work on a regular 3 pt. The design of that mower suggest it was really for use as a belly mower but then modifed/adapted for 3 pt use. Since the front wheels are not adjustable for height, I would just use the 3pt to maintain the correct height. My brother has an older rhino mower that has no front wheels and it works fine. Having front wheels does make the more float over the ground more evenly in most conditions.

 

[CDsdad]

If at all possible, I'd modify the front caster shafts and MAKE the front of that mower adjustable. May be as simple as removing the front wheels and replacing with a set of rear ones which have the shaft and getting a handful of bushings to adjust with.

I used a 4' with no front wheels once and it wasn't easy to keep from scalping. I'd also get solid tires. I don't have any bouncing with my 6' Landpride and it has solid tires. That must be an operator thing.