Finished Grappler Claw

[Defective]

Nice work on the can...but what about eggs?

 

[johnk]

One heck of a job. Wish I had that kind of fabricating talent...

 

[1savoy]

Weekend Project,
Your grapple looks great. You asked for some pictures of forks. Here are some pictures of the forks I built last spring and painted this summer. I picked up the forks locally that someone had on ebay. The design centered around using up some steel left over from some other projects. I really wanted a grapple and decided to add it to the forks. The forks slide on the rod and I welded the "L's" to the forks to keep them from swinging out. The forks can go completely together by pulling the rod and putting the forks in the center section. I added a second hole in the grapple cylinder top mount, so when the grapple is open I can pull the top pin and put it in the back hole. This allows the grapple to stand up staight and I figured it would not get in the way when moving larger items on pallets. I figured I would make a completely different root rake grapple later, but have since thought I could build a rake section that can go on this setup in place of the forks. Should be easy enough, I hope. I have not had the chance to really use the forks and grapple yet, other than to pick up a couple things to test them out. This next summer they should get a work out.

 

[jimmysisson]

1Savoy - I'm real interested in how that thing works for you. I have a set of forks kind of like yours, and want to add a grapple. I was thinking about pivoting the grapple arms on the bar that holds the forks, to make everything more compact. My main trouble is I can't see much out in front, so less sticking up is better.
Mainly I wonder how the forks themselves are as the bottom "half" of a grapple, if you lose too much through them or what. My main use would be logs and brush. What's your intended use? Do you think the grapple will flex much if it grabs a one-sided load? Looks pretty strong so probably not. Let us know how it performs.
Thanks, Jim

 

[3RRL]

1savoy,
Friggin great idea. That really turned out nice. Your fabrication skills are excellent.
Thanks for sharing.

 

[1savoy]

jimmysisson,
I will have to post back when I get a chance to start using the forks. I don't think I will have a problem with the grapple flexing from uneven loads, but time will tell. My main use at first is moving about 250 red pines. They are about 32 ft long and 12 in across at the base. They were already cut down when we bought the land. I need to go through the piles and see if any of them are still any good. If some are decent I will cut them into 10 ft lengths and take them to a saw mill. If not they will all end up in a burn pile. I figured the forks will also work good for moving the stumps from these red pines when I start pushing or digging them out. I think the forks should work decent for brush, but not as good as a root rake style grapple. I don't have much brush right now to move, but I may make the root rake part to add to this grapple anyway. I like your idea of pivoting the grapple on your top rod. As far as view out the front you mentioned, I would think if you made the grapple with a fairly open design you could have a good view through it. That is until you grab a load of brush or something. Keep us posted.

3RRL,
Thanks for the compliments. I appreciate it.

Russ

 

[JRP]

Weekend Project, Great job! A Grapple is my next project and I'm glad to see yours worked so well.

1Savoy posted some goon fork pictures. Forks were one of my earlier projects, and I started a post on TBN called "POST YOUR PICTURES OF FORKS" for everyone to share photos. It has a lot of forks ideas. Search for it, or Click the VIEWS box in the threads in forum page and find in. It has about 4100 views.

Suggestions:
Most important - Start with real forks from forklift. The metalurgy is MUCH better than 1020 steel. The frame being 1020 is OK.

Make the forks adjustable. 1Savoy's design is similar to mine and will work well.

Optional, but only a little more work:
Make them fit 3pt and also the FEL. Mine fits Speeco 3pt quickhitch and also Bobtatch for the FEL. This takes a little extra work, but is worth it. I use the 3pt to move a 300 gallon water tote. This also allows a hay bale in the front on spear, and one on the back with forks.

 

[jinman]

It took a total of 50 ft of ½" hydrolic hose and 16 ft of 3/8" hose. That's how much it took to come off of my rear remote. This is the first implement that I've fabricated. Any suggestions on ways to improve on future projects?

Nice job on the grapple. I love mine on my rock bucket. You can't beat them for picking up brush.

Since you asked for suggestions, I would definitely suggest 1/4" hydraulic hose instead of 3/8" or 1/2". With a hydraulic cylinder, you don't need high flow since you are only moving to a postion and stopping. As a matter of fact, high flow may make it hard to get fine feathering movements. If you use 1/2" hose and small orifices on the grapple, you can achieve the same feathering controls. You may have done this because I did see your "can trick."

If you plan on maybe adding a hydraulic post-hole digger, then the large 1/2" hose makes perfect sense because the PHD will require continuous high flow.

Either way, that's a fine job and will add a whole new dimension to your FEL's usefulness.

 

[weekend project]

JRP- THANKS FOR THE SUGGESTIONS. I WILL DEFINITELY CHECK OUT THE FORK DESIGNS. I HAVE A SET OF 48" FORKS THAT I BOUGHT USED. HAVEN'T HEARD THE TERM METALURGY THOUGH- IS IT JUST A HARDER STEEL?

JINMAN- INTERESTING CONCEPT ON USING THE ¼" HOSE; HOWEVER, I HAVE GREAT CONTROL USING THE ½" AND 3/8" HOSE. I CAN STILL DO LIGHT FEATHER MOVEMENTS BUT CAN ALSO MOVE THE WHOLE SYSTEM FASTER IF NEED BE.

 

[weekend project]

1SAVOY- FORKS LOOK GREAT! I WANT TO BUILD SOMETHING REAL SIMILAR TO THAT BUT WITHOUT THE GRAPPLER CLAW.