Finished rear hydraulic install

93Mustang · Dec 10, 2011

Well it still needs some paint. I blatantly copied Cocre's design (and got lots of other help from people on these forums) and with significant help from my neighbor, have completed a two valve addition to my tractor. Prince stackable valves from surplus center. Had a local welder weld up the mounting bracket and procured all the fittings and hoses from a local hydraulic shop. Got the couplers from the dealer. Next step is to add a hydraulic cylinder to my rear blade for side to side angle.

MtnViewRanch · Dec 13, 2011

Just a suggestion, but when you purchase your cylinder for your rear blade, get a 3" dia cylinder at minimum. You will be much happier with a larger dia cylinder than just a 2" or even a 2 1/2". Depending on how you set up the hydraulic on your blade, but it should have a 12"-14" stroke. OEM set ups use 14" & 16" stroke cylinders for their angling cylinders.

Hope that some of this may help you.

kevinwak · Dec 14, 2011

I was just going to order the parts from surplus center tonight to do the same basic install. Only difference is my 2520 doesn't currently have the power beyond installed so I will also have to do that. Only difference I might make is in the positioning of the valve handles. I took valve measurments home with me from work this morning and sat on the tractor and tried them in a similar location to yours. Since I am 6'3" tall and with a large frame I think anything within the ROPS will just end up as an armrest. I am thinking of placing the valve so that the levers reach around the outside of the ROPS and moving left and right (similar mounting as an old D6 cat my dad has)
How do you like the CCM toplink?

93Mustang · Dec 14, 2011

Thanks for the advice MtnView- Unfortunately I already ordered a 2"x10". Basically my blade already has an offset cylinder that was 2" inches so I copied that. Hope that gives me enough strength from jolts (I think that is why I would get a bigger cylinder). I will be mounting the cylinder on the arm that pivots for the offset function and this seemed like a good compromise between fully extended and fully retracted based on my measurements. Hope to work on it next week so we will see... The process so far has gone way too smoothly so this will probably turn out to be a pita.

Kevnwak- my hydraulic toplink and grapple have been my two most used attachments and both well worth the money. I have had no problems with the ccm toplink but you may also want to talk to MtnView about options as well. Good luck with the project! Interested in your progress.

- Dana

wcampbell47 · Dec 17, 2011

Just brought my B3200 home with a dealer installed single remote valve. There was much ado about placing the valve on the ROPS. So far seems like it is not going to bother my right arm and shoulder but will have to work out how easy/hard it is to use.

I logged onto Fit Rite Hydraulics and supplied the info on the B3200. They responded quickly with a quote for a hydraulic top link cylinder and hoses. Any one have experience with their product?

93Mustang · Jan 2, 2012

Well I got the blade finished. Of course my offset cylinder let go so I just have the new angle cylinder for the moment. Can move the angle to either side (one is welded in a spot that allows movement about equidistant either direction and the other side allows an extreme open to one side but little angle the other way.). Now I need some snow to test this out. Will use it for dirt also but would like to test it in snow first.

Thanks for all the help! - Dana

Chilly807 · Jan 4, 2012

The only problem you MAY have is if you hook something hard with a corner of the blade. The reason a larger cylinder works better is that with the larger piston diameter, a given force at the blade end will produce less of a pressure spike in the hoses than with a small diameter cylinder. A crossover relief valve will do the same thing, but is more complicated.

I started with a 2x18 cylinder on my power angle project last year. It ended up bending the rod because of over-extension (poor design on both my part and the previous owner), so when I re-designed the cylinder mounts to cure that problem, I went with a 3x10 cylinder.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/188519-adding-rear-remote-kubota-l3400.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/welding/189597-adding-cylinder-mount-rear-blade.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/192127-cylinder-travel-limiter.html

The third link is the re-design of the cylinder mounts and new cylinder.

Sean