Fired Road contractor. Build it myself?

   / Fired Road contractor. Build it myself? #61  
They were thrilled with the communication and I have done more things for them plus have been referred. Treat people like you want to be treated, listen to what they say, do quality work, admit it when you are both wrong or right and the world will beat a path to your door. It's not difficult.

This is the key! Even if I had "bad news", I'd keep the customer informed with any deviation from the discussed or agreed upon timeline or costs, no matter if it was a single homeowner or 200+ house a year builder. No returned calls will bring (by human nature), the worst assumptions.
 
   / Fired Road contractor. Build it myself? #62  
I've built several (15+) miles of gravel roads. Most with a road grader. Larger projects with Dozer and Grader.

Nothing about your picture that says to me this will be a simple job. There needs to be many, many cubic yards of dirt moved. No way to estimate the gravel needs until the dirt work has been completed. The more time and energy that's spent on the dirtwork, the less time and money will have to be spent on the gravel.

If you shortcut the dirtwork part of this project you will fight your road endlessly. When you have the neighbors coming over to ask if you are building a superhiway or something then you might be getting close to having moved enough dirt. The uphill shoulder of your driveway needs to be elevated a minimum of 2ft with a wide flat bottomed drainage ditch you can drive in with your tractor, 6-8ft wide in the bottom. The downhill shoulder needs to be sloped so it can be seeded and maintained with your tractor without fear of tipping over or sliding off the edge.

As Eddie (I think) mentioned, look at your local governmental roads. Properly built they don't let water onto the roadbed at all. For me, that's NEVER. If water is running across your road it will fail.

A road without drainage ditches is a ditch.
 
   / Fired Road contractor. Build it myself?
  • Thread Starter
#63  
On a recent project where I was going to move a large hill and cut a country driveway down nearly two feet in places, I spent a few calls explaining the timing and process and to reduce angst when a track hoe, dozer and dump trucks showed up on a stately property. Explained potential for delay if it rained too much plus answered questions in advance. We texted several times, mostly on very light things and I kept them informed when things went wrong. Something usually does. Some things were delayed but they correctly blamed the circumstances and not me. It was OK.

They were thrilled with the communication and I have done more things for them plus have been referred. Treat people like you want to be treated, listen to what they say, do quality work, admit it when you are both wrong or right and the world will beat a path to your door. It's not difficult.

Communication is the key. I went thru 3 logging contracts. Each contract had a start by date. First guy didn't start when he was supposed to and a month after the start date I notified him that we were moving on. It was a pay as cut so they didn't lose any money. Second one was a nightmare and I should have fired him long before I did. Third one was a pro and he called me to talk about the amount of rain we were having. He was losing money because ge couldn't cut but didn't want to tear up my land, or his equipment, or endanger his men. IT dragged on longer than I would have wanted it to but the work he did was good, and then he gave me a sweat heart deal on clean up. I understand delays. But I have timelines too. And I have money on the line too. And for most contractors, it's just another job...no big deal. But to the people you are working for, this is everything. This is their life. A change in timeline can be significant. A change in timeline that they are not able to adjust to, because nobody will talk to them can be devastating.
 
   / Fired Road contractor. Build it myself?
  • Thread Starter
#64  
I did a little more searching, and I have found a few back blades to check out, in the $2,000 range. 2 are 9 foot Rihno blades...Hydrualic. There is the 10 foot John Deere that was mentioned by another member, and a Bushhog10 foot for 3k. I think I can find a blade that will work well for what I need to do, within my budget. And I will start cutting the inside of the road. I'm thinking 6-8 feet for the ditch so that it flows gently but difinitively. I will work out the downhill slope as well
 
   / Fired Road contractor. Build it myself? #65  
I did a little more searching, and I have found a few back blades to check out, in the $2,000 range. 2 are 9 foot Rihno blades...Hydrualic. There is the 10 foot John Deere that was mentioned by another member, and a Bushhog10 foot for 3k. I think I can find a blade that will work well for what I need to do, within my budget. And I will start cutting the inside of the road. I'm thinking 6-8 feet for the ditch so that it flows gently but difinitively. I will work out the downhill slope as well

These are finish tools. They do a nice job once all the heavy work is done, but they shouldn't even leave the barn until then.
 
   / Fired Road contractor. Build it myself? #66  
These are finish tools. They do a nice job once all the heavy work is done, but they shouldn't even leave the barn until then.

I don't think the full impact of this project has been realized yet. :)

Yes, it can be cobbled together with finish tools. No, it won't be a long term success. :(
 
   / Fired Road contractor. Build it myself? #67  
The OP will do just fine with the back blade.
 
   / Fired Road contractor. Build it myself? #68  
   / Fired Road contractor. Build it myself? #69  
The OP will do just fine with the back blade.

To do what? It's a terrible tool for shaping virgin soil, it doesn't dig very well and it's useless at moving material for any distance. Being in the back, it's extremely difficult to get anything smooth behind it because every bump the tractor drives over, exaggerates that movement to the blade in the rear.

Once everything is roughed in and the material has been removed, it's an OK tool for shaping loose soil, but there is a long learning curve to get good results. Same thing with a box blade. The land plane is probably the easiest to get a nice overall smooth surface out of, but it all depends on how well the ground is roughed before using the finish tool.

To build it to last, you have to accept the fact that a massive amount of material has to be removed. This is great for the excavator. What you do with that material is where things get challenging. If you go slow with the digging, you should be able to rough it in fairly well. Just take it one step at a time. Remove the dirt first, then think about buying a finish tool, or spending that same amount to hire a finish dozer operator to come in and make it nice.
 
   / Fired Road contractor. Build it myself?
  • Thread Starter
#70  
All advice is appreciated. It opens my eyes to potential problems and I would much rather have an idea that something is coming my way than to just run into it. I'm going to spend some time this weekend just looking over the road. And planning it out in my mind. I might move some soil with the excavator just to get a feel for what kind of results I can achieve.
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2018 CATERPILLAR 289D SKID STEER (A51242)
2018 CATERPILLAR...
2012 Ram 3500 Crew Cab S/A Mason Dump Truck (A50323)
2012 Ram 3500 Crew...
Ford 1320 Tractor (A50514)
Ford 1320 Tractor...
2023 BANDIT SG-75 STUMP GRINDER (A51242)
2023 BANDIT SG-75...
2017 Ford F-250 4x4 Knapheide Service Truck (A50323)
2017 Ford F-250...
(3) TIRES & WHEELS (A51243)
(3) TIRES & WHEELS...
 
Top