Firewood Storage

[Egon]

Would that be called a Pole Shed? Are there mortise and tenon joints?

Looks good.

Egon

 

[bellweather]

Yes the joints are mortise and tenon, but I can't take credit for its construction...though I could have built it

 

[AndyR]

Re: Firewood Storage/Barn Design

Your building plans sound quite possible. The timber framing bug has bit me deep so I have a tendancy to lean that way. There is a school up in Maine called Timber Framer's Guild or the <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.heartwoodschool.com/>Heartwood School</A> when I am off doing projects off of the property. If you do the work yourself a timber frame can be surprisingly affordable. It is quite possible to mix different building methods (pole/timber/stick)for this kind of project. The idea of using above-ground construction methods if you are on ledge certainly makes sense to me - just bore a 1" hole at the center of each post location and drop in a galvinized pin (or piece of stainless rod stock) and you have a great anchor - assuming you building inspector agrees. I do like the idea of leaving the included corner open but covered (just make sure it will clear the tractor and ROPS (if you have one).

While I clearly favor timber frame, I think pole construction would probably work just as well. You could use 8x8 PT timbers if you can get them long enough or just round poles. Be carefull of snow and wind loading, using things like diagonal bracing in the outer walls and compression bracing, strain brace across your roof rafters on the salt box. You could also go with a raised wood floor in the workshop (warmer but higher) or a cement slab (tough on the feet and d*** cold at times). One general note - remember that the wood/cement interface is your maximum chance to rot so use a piece of bituthane roofing seal to isolate the wood from contact.

Well that was a quick lunchtime dump - let me know if that helps or confuses.

 

[knucklehead]

Re: Firewood Storage/Barn Design

Thanks, Andy. Maybe I'll check into some prices - there's a big sawmill just a few miles away. I kinda assumed timbers were big $$ because good trees seem to be harder to find. This person owns a ton of land, and has some nice timber, so maybe he's cutting large stuff more reasonably. One of the details we identified in buildings we like is a tall wall - like a hay barn, for the lack of a better description. That is only achieved via post & beam or balloon framing, unless you build two full stories. On another thread, I linked to the <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.countrycarpenters.com/>Country Carpenters</A> web site, and they seem to be the ones with the designs we prefer. We also photograph and measure bulidings we like. Your encouragment may help us focus on the design we want, and move things along - thanks!

How do you anchor your buildings? I've seen a lot of little simple articles on timber framing and it seems everything is just set on either a rock foundation, or in gravel, as in the pic of the wagon shed at King's Landing. Foundational work is not the focus - joinery seems to be the repeated focus. Do you use pilings, or do the trick you described with bored holes in ledge? Do you have any idea what spans can be achieved with various dimensions? I have lots of info for standard framing lumber, and all the books I've seen on timber framing are of the "coffee table" variety, with very little info. I'm not sure I feel like a class, although it would be fun - I'd rather pick up what info I need that is outside regular framing methods, like span ratings for timbers, and get to work.

Should we start a timber framing thread? Is there one already? You can tell I just zoomed in and haven't searched yet. Maybe it's time for a trip to the State Library........thanks again for the encouragement, Andy.

 

[SteveV]

This year I put away the firewood trailer and started using pallets to store/dry and cue up the firewood near the door. Yes, it took me awhile to get out the camera, but here's what's being used and I'm really enjoying the dry wood resulting from the hot drought period this summer. My scenery isn't anywhere as pretty as AndyR's but my setting is more suburban than rural too.

 

[beenthere]

Steve
Are you loading the pallets with green wood, and then moving the pallets to the site shown in the picture?

I was wondering (if the above is true) what you are using to move the pallets. Forks? front, rear?

I am planning to begin stacking green, split wood on pallets, and moving the stacks, after the wood is dry, up to the house (100 - 200 yards), and wondered about stacking about the same height as you have done.

 

[SteveV]

My wood was cut this spring and is stored tree length in a 5 foot high pile uncovered. This year I started cutting up the pile in July and took advantage of free drying by the summer heat. Yup, the stuff is heavy green, sometimes I could only pick a few inches, mostly with the rollback function and did the drying single high. There isn't that much energy for creating firewood at that time of the year anyways, sailing is more important! Since it is palletized, multiple moves are not a problem, and the banding needs to be tightened as the wood dries. Moving device displayed in the attached picture. SteveV

 

[beenthere]

Thanks,
How do you band the wood on the pallet? and what is involved in tightening the banding?
Did you re-pile it after the drying process, onto the stacks on the pallets shown in the first pic?

Nice forks for moving the pallets. I may just stack some dry wood (red and white oak split) onto a pallet to evaluate the height I can pile and still move with my FEL. I'm guessing about 2' of height, and then stack on another pallet (also based on AndyR's pic earlier in this thread).

 

[SteveV]

There were enough questions there to go multi window to answer them. For banding I use cheap poly banding from Uline (www.uline.com), it comes in a kit with band, tool, joiners all for like $40. it's good for something like 600#, pull it tight with gloved hands if you please or use the tool supplied. Nope, no resacking after drying, it moves around some but just tightening seems to keep everything where it belongs. You get a pretty good idea whether to add that next layer or if its going to be a top skid or bottom after you've done a couple. SteveV

 

[beenthere]

Thanks for the info. I found a strapping kit Model# S-107 for $39. I will be ordering it, as I have been looking for the strapping and buckles for other jobs as well as will try it on the firewood. Appreciate the comeback.