First Bush Hog Experience

em14 · May 27, 2003

I agree with Jack ... the barb wire was just a "happening" and had little if anything to do with the pto shaft being driven back on the shaft ... The pry bar will work as will tree wedges (Metal) gently but firmly driven between the U-Joint and the mower housing ... you don't want to put much pressure on the mower gear housing ... You can use a drift pin and slege or large ball peen hammer and drive it off.... I think that the wedges or some sort of wedge shape will get things off so that you can get the shear pin out AFTER the U-Joint is clear of the shaft .. If you drive the pin out when the holes line up it may hang and now you are into drilling it out. The next thing you need to do is check the lenght of the PTO shaft and cut it to the proper lenght. Your mower manual should cover how to do this. Good Luck ... I think that you will have a bigger problem clearing the barb wire out of the mower than getting this shaft taken care of ... Be careful with this stuff as it is MEAN! take your time and it will come off....
Leo

em14 · May 27, 2003

Sorry ... I forgot to tell you to remove the "ring retainer clip" on the mowers shaft so that the U-Joint is free to come off the shaft ... that could be a show stopper otherwise ...
Leo

Anonymous Poster · May 27, 2003

Thanks everyone for the excellent responses. You all have given me plenty of options to try this week. I won't be back at the farm until later this week, but I'll give everyone an update after I make some progress.

Thanks again!

BB_TX · May 28, 2003

If you have a log splitting wedge, you should be able to get it off. Put the point of the wedge in one side between the collar and the housing and give a few taps with a heavy hammer. Then move it to the other side and a few more taps. Back and forth and it should begin to slide off. Two wedges (one for each side) and an extra set of hands would be even better. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

twabscs · Jul 17, 2003

Hey guys I'm the original "Poster" on this thread. I just wanted to follow up with the final details so future readers have the conclusion.

After mowing with the cutter for three weeks and hitting a mini-bike frame and large rock in the process, the cutter did not loosen up. I emailed Rhino about the problem and they wrote back to speak with my dealer. I called the dealer early last week and he said he would stop by, have a look, and pick up the cutter.

He stopped by (I wasn't there) and he also tried mowing a bit as he was sure it would loosen up. It didn't and so he took it back to the shop (no charge - warranty). He called today to say that the shop had to use a heavy duty puller to get it off the shaft as it was on there "real good."

I negotiated a new Rhino SE6 with a slip clutch that he is deliverying tomorrow. I should have ordered the SE6 instead of the SE5 to begin with. Another example of where a "good dealer" is much more important than the specific brand of tractor. Initially I really wanted <font color="orange">orange </font>, but now I wouldn't trade my NH for any color. I'm <font color="blue">blue</font> for the foreseeable future.

Thanks everyone for the help.

Tom

Soundguy · Jul 18, 2003

Glad to hear it worked out for you. In this situation you just happened to be the exception to the rule. ironically, I went to mow this weekend, and when my mower started up it vibrated like crazy. I had to hit the blade bolts with pbblaster, and knock them around a bit to loosen up enough to swing out to ballance... that is how it usually goes.

On the other hand, I was looking at the shear pin and it looked funny.. well , it is half way sheared... so it is impossible to remove right now, untill it shears completely off... no way to extracti it... hope this doesn't turn into one of those nightmare shear pin delimas I've heard about time to time....

wish me luck guys.

thanks

Soundguy