Oil & Fuel First Filter and Fluid Change(50 hrs)

[jinman]

Dave covered all the important details except for one. DO NOT use just any hydraulic fluid in your tractor. Use only the NH 134 or a suitable substitute. Your fluid is not only hydraulic fluid, but also your HST fluid. The HST is the most critical for tolerances and many hydraulic fluids at box stores and TSC are not meant for use in HST transmissions. Your HST may have internal pressures of up to 5000 psi and your hydraulic system probably tops out around 2200 to 2500 psi. Some TSC oils are okay to use, but not the cheaper oils. Look on the container and make sure it meets the Ford/NH 134 spec before using one of those fluids.

 

[devongarver]

Dave covered all the important details except for one. DO NOT use just any hydraulic fluid in your tractor. Use only the NH 134 or a suitable substitute. Your fluid is not only hydraulic fluid, but also your HST fluid. The HST is the most critical for tolerances and many hydraulic fluids at box stores and TSC are not meant for use in HST transmissions. Your HST may have internal pressures of up to 5000 psi and your hydraulic system probably tops out around 2200 to 2500 psi. Some TSC oils are okay to use, but not the cheaper oils. Look on the container and make sure it meets the Ford/NH 134 spec before using one of those fluids.

OK, I will look to make sure. Thanks again guys!

 

[dave1949]

Dave covered all the important details except for one. DO NOT use just any hydraulic fluid in your tractor. Use only the NH 134 or a suitable substitute. Your fluid is not only hydraulic fluid, but also your HST fluid. The HST is the most critical for tolerances and many hydraulic fluids at box stores and TSC are not meant for use in HST transmissions. Your HST may have internal pressures of up to 5000 psi and your hydraulic system probably tops out around 2200 to 2500 psi. Some TSC oils are okay to use, but not the cheaper oils. Look on the container and make sure it meets the Ford/NH 134 spec before using one of those fluids.

Good point Jim. I don't think in HST terms.

Should also point out how important it is to warm a diesel engine up well before working it. I warm mine at a high idle, 1100-1200 rpm. I was taught that is the way diesels are to be warmed up, not a low idle. In the winter especially, start up your engine and go have a cup of coffee - not a quick one either . You can actually hear the difference between a cold and warmed diesel engine.
Dave.

 

[devongarver]

Good point Jim. I don't think in HST terms.

Should also point out how important it is to warm a diesel engine up well before working it. I warm mine at a high idle, 1100-1200 rpm. I was taught that is the way diesels are to be warmed up, not a low idle. In the winter especially, start up your engine and go have a cup of coffee - not a quick one either . You can actually hear the difference between a cold and warmed diesel engine.
Dave.

This part I do already at least lol. I learned that through operating them. Even when its hot out like ti is now, i still let it idle at 1/3 throttle for about 5 minutes before I start using it.

 

[jinman]

You can buy oil drain pans if you want, but I find 5-gal buckets work great for the hydraulic oil. You can buy a TSC project bucket and a lid for it at TSC. Buy two of these and make sure you have large trash can liners available. I use two liners inside of each other and put them into the buckets. Drain the oil into the lined buckets. Make sure you have two buckets ready because you'll need to make a quick change while the oil is draining because your reservoir holds more than 5 gallons.

After you pour in fresh oil, use a funnel and pour the old oil back into the empty containers. Pull out the trash bags lining the buckets and toss them in the trash or burn them. You'll be left with two clean buckets to use the next time.:thumbsup:

 

[dave1949]

You can buy oil drain pans if you want, but I find 5-gal buckets work great for the hydraulic oil. You can buy a TSC project bucket and a lid for it at TSC. Buy two of these and make sure you have large trash can liners available. I use two liners inside of each other and put them into the buckets. Drain the oil into the lined buckets. Make sure you have two buckets ready because you'll need to make a quick change while the oil is draining because your reservoir holds more than 5 gallons.

After you pour in fresh oil, use a funnel and pour the old oil back into the empty containers. Pull out the trash bags lining the buckets and toss them in the trash or burn them. You'll be left with two clean buckets to use the next time.:thumbsup:

That's a good tip, Jim. Won't work for me though. I always manage to fumble finger at least one drain plug and I can't reach into 5 gal of hot oil to retrieve it. :laughing: Somehow, the floor beneath my tractor looks like an oil spill site by the time I'm done. Thank goodness for the Sunday newspaper. You should see me paint
Dave.

 

[Opti-Mist]

Yes, TSC's Universal Hydraulic Oil is a satisfactory substitute. Read the lable, it will indicate it's application.

 

[barbqranch]

I put a "Quickoildrainvalve" on my TC29D, and it works like a champ. They probably have one that would fit the main hydraulic oil drain also. When I change mine, I will check the threads and order one.

 

[RickB]

I put a "Quickoildrainvalve" on my TC29D, and it works like a champ. They probably have one that would fit the main hydraulic oil drain also. When I change mine, I will check the threads and order one.

Better order 3; that's how many you will need to replace all the hyd drain plugs. May be OK for a lawn or pavement queen, but not a good idea for tractors uses in the woods or brush. I wouldn't want anything less substantial or lower/longer than a solid plug keeping the oil in my tractors.

 

[devongarver]

You can buy oil drain pans if you want, but I find 5-gal buckets work great for the hydraulic oil. You can buy a TSC project bucket and a lid for it at TSC. Buy two of these and make sure you have large trash can liners available. I use two liners inside of each other and put them into the buckets. Drain the oil into the lined buckets. Make sure you have two buckets ready because you'll need to make a quick change while the oil is draining because your reservoir holds more than 5 gallons.

After you pour in fresh oil, use a funnel and pour the old oil back into the empty containers. Pull out the trash bags lining the buckets and toss them in the trash or burn them. You'll be left with two clean buckets to use the next time.:thumbsup:

This certainly seems like a good idea, but will a 5 gallon bucket even fit under the plug without having to drive the tractor up on ramps?

Yes, TSC's Universal Hydraulic Oil is a satisfactory substitute. Read the lable, it will indicate it's application.

Ummmm would you be able to show me an example or give me the specific name? I went there last night, and I went on their website yesterday, and they carry nothing that is even close to a replacement from what I could see. Maybe I am just overlooking something??

Better order 3; that's how many you will need to replace all the hyd drain plugs. May be OK for a lawn or pavement queen, but not a good idea for tractors uses in the woods or brush. I wouldn't want anything less substantial or lower/longer than a solid plug keeping the oil in my tractors.

^^^ This is a true statement....I have already replaced the factory "hose clamp" on the front side of the steering knuckle boot, as I have ripped it off twice now due to the depth of mud and amount of crazy brush I have been clearing. I replace the factory crapola one with an industrial stainless steel band clamp that tightens with a 5/16th bolt, similar to what you see on radiator hoses, but this one is fully stainless. I had it left over from my last job. Sometimes being a pack rat like me is a good thing! lol.








Update: I went to the dealer on the way home as well. I purchased the following there:

Hydraulic Filter
HST Filter
Fuel Filter
Engine Oil Filter
1 gallon just of 134 G H. Oil

I also purchased 2 1-gallon jugs of Shell Rotella T 15w-40 for the enigne oil change.

I opted to wait on the purchase of a mass amount of Hydraulic fluid, since I will not be changing the fluid until 300 hours. I will continue to look for a satisfactory replacement, and if I cannot find one...I guess I will have to bite the bullet and pay 65$/bucket(5 gallons) for the NH stuff...crimany thats expensive...