First loader work on NX4510

[joefromga]

So this week I finally did some real loader work.

I somehow bent the level load indicator bar. Was using it then all of a sudden noticed it was curled up. Oh well.

Loader work isn't easy. I can't see what's going on up front. Maybe need a camera up there. That would be sweet.

Back dragging on float seems to work well. I was laying crush and run on dirt that I smoothed out with the ratchet rake.

I found I needed a flat bolt-on scraper for the backhoe bucket teeth. Hard to remove dirt without it.

I've noticed everytime I use the tractor I need a new implement.

The dump trailer I rented is awesome. Now I want one.

I'm not sure what to run the rpms at. I used 2000+ most of the time but it's really loud. I hope the neighbors didn't mind.

I also am not comfortable with the sticks on the backhoe and how thwu control movements. It seems so counterintuitive. Each movement just seems backwards to me.

And the hydro pedals. Who decided that contrary to every car ever built the forward should be to the left of the reverse? Can this be changed? My rider lawnmower isn't this way. I found myself many times hitting forward when I meant to reverse nearly hitting things that aren't meant to be hit.

The cab heater is almost totally unnecessary. You're inside a tiny glass box. (it was only 40s)

This was a learning experience.

 

[davesl708]

Practice makes perfect. You will learn to see the edge of the bucket on the FEL in your minds eye.
Have fun. You will find more and more uses for your TLB.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

So this week I finally did some real loader work.

I somehow bent the level load indicator bar.

Don't feel bad. The load indicator loosens up, starts to fall off, and then gets bent. I was told to lock tight it down (which I did with blue 242 LocTite), and it still loosened up, started to fall off and got bent. I have removed the load indicator and haven't missed it for well over a year and all I do is loader work.

 

[Alien]

I don't work my tractor hard and most of the work I do is 1800rpm, however with my mower I go up to 2200 max. It never struggles, I just use lower gears. I now have 500 hours on it. When I bought it I gave my stepson the battery for his ute and I put a expensive calcium type battery in it. It is still going well after 9 years.
The only thing that came loose on my tractor was the Loader mounts. The spring washers cracked and fell out. I push a lot of tree stumps so I guess that is what caused that.
If your tyres are loaded make sure you put the valves to the top before checking pressures or you will fill your guage with fluid.
Tyres on a tractor can look OK but they may be flat. Check them regularly.
Usual things, Check oils and water and grease regularly. Your wife may wonder why you spend more time working on the tractor than the car. Well. it is a bit like having a mistress, something a bit different. Tractors are special.

 

[TJP89]

There is a learning curve for sure. You'll get used to it all over time. I have never used the loader level bar, useless IMO. Now I just have a sense of what the loader is doing. The heater is for when it's in single digits or negative. As someone said, practice makes perfect. Very true for all tractors.

 

[cat fever]

I dug this trench with the FEL 2 months after getting my tractor. I have to admit, it took a little time to burn the movements into my thick head. But it was going smooth after that.

The more you use it the more natural it will feel.

 

[joefromga]

I was thinking about switching the lines for the backhoe or the lever direction and lines. I'll have to experiment.

The loader is easy but I didn't expect the level indicator to break so fast.
The backhoe on the other hand is just so against what my brain thinks should happen I'm almost sure it's backwards.

I've used small fee rentals before and skid steers and it was never like this.

Someone needs to develop a glove that you can use for backhoe work instead. We have the technology. It can be done.

 

[cat fever]

I was thinking about switching the lines for the backhoe or the lever direction and lines. I'll have to experiment.

The loader is easy but I didn't expect the level indicator to break so fast.
The backhoe on the other hand is just so against what my brain thinks should happen I'm almost sure it's backwards.

I've used small fee rentals before and skid steers and it was never like this.

Someone needs to develop a glove that you can use for backhoe work instead. We have the technology. It can be done.

I think switching lines might be the easy way to see if it is better for you. Who knows maybe they were not put on right from the dealer.

 

[Cataclysm]

See if you can switch between the "backhoe control pattern" and "excavator control pattern". Most modern machines are switchable.

I run a backhoe every day on the "backhoe" control pattern and have for years. Switch my machine to "excavator" and I cant do anything with it.

Maybe one or the other pattern will feel more intuitive for you.

 

[blucoondawg]

How are your backhoe controls arranged? They should be link this,

left hand stick
forward/back is main boom down/up
Left/right is swing left right

Right hand stick
Forward/back is dipper stick out/in
Left/right is bucket curl/open

I don't recommend changing from that pattern, it is the John Deere or ISO style control pattern for all tlb machines, I'd you change to some customized setup it will save you up for ever using a different machine without a bunch of practice to learn a new control set. It should make sense to you, the lever movements should go the direction you want to the hoe to go with the exception of the curl function.
Have you ran excavator style controls before on a mini ex or excavator? The excavator controls switch the main boom and dipper stick functions to opposite hands.

I personally don't care to dig with the loader, I've done it a couple times in very sugary sand ground and I took it easy at it. To much chance for damage for my liking, a loader on a tractor isn't so much a digging tool as a scooping up loose material for stockpiling/moving tool.

 

[RockyNY]

You'll get better at it as you get seat time. I may be the odd man, but I use the level indicator all the time, especially when using the pallet forks.

 

[joefromga]

You'll get better at it as you get seat time. I may be the odd man, but I use the level indicator all the time, especially when using the pallet forks.

I was enjoying it too till it was gone then I see a nice s-curve of brass or whatever it is and the cursing began. I haven't check it but wonder if it went down too far when dumping or something. Will see when I get back to it.

 

[RockyNY]

Mine was loose when I received the tractor, but I tightened it up and am now at 55 hours with no probs. My mahindra didn't have a level indicator, and I find that it is really useful. I also use it when plowing snow to indicate when the plow is level.

 

[Cataclysm]

Chuck the bucket level and learn where your bucket is. It doesnt take that long once you rid yourself of that crutch.

As stated above they get loose and get bent/broken anyways.

 

[Coyote machine]

Try slowing down and looking at what the boom/ dipper and other functions of the hoe are based on what you do with each stick. Practice the pattern on a place where it is just a test. I found I had to consciously figure out what each movement would do and how much RPM and lever action to give the sticks to get the results I was looking for. It's not real difficult, and it does make sense, once you train your brain to put the bucket where you want it to go, and then it becomes muscle memory- with time spent.

I use the level rod to let me know when the bucket leading edge is approaching flat to ground as I move from where I dumped my last bucket and the time it takes to get on approach for the next. Once the rod end pops through the holder I let go of the loader lever.

If dumping the bucket edge beyond 90* to grade it can fall out of the holder, so I try to not get that far with the bucket edge.

HST likes RPMs, but a lot of work can be done between 1900-2200 RPMs.

 

[rd_macgregor]

The only time I bent my FEL level indicator was backing up in the woods when a branch caught it when fully curled (extended)...almost a right-angle bend toward the front, but I got it mostly straightened out and haven't had an issue since.

 

[Coyote machine]

My experience is one can use the sleeve that the indicator goes into to bend it back to almost new condition if done carefully. I've tried and used this method numerous times when I've caused the rod to 'break' free of the sleeve....

 

[blucoondawg]

Lol it seems everyone I know with a tractor breaks that rod off almost immediately and I've never even tweaked mine and I'm out in the woods all the time

 

[Threepoint]

Joe, you just took delivery, didn't you? Sounds like the retaining nut on the level-indicator rod was loose, fell off, and let the rod slip out of position, then bend. It's happened to other NX owners as well. Also to some other model owners, although the assembly is a bit different on the NX from the DK series. If you just have a few hours on it, suggest you discuss it with your dealer and see if they would be willing to order you a new assembly under warranty, with you installing it yourself. Doubt it's a new issue for them. If they won't, try bending the rod back into place as CM says.

I was alerted to the possibility that this might happen by posts of other TBN members with other models. So one of the first things I did on my NX4510 was remove and replace the nut with blue thread locker. After 170 hrs and lots of loader work, everything is still tight. I really find the leveler rod worthwhile. Sure, I could work without one, as I do on my Kubota B2150, but having it lets me be very precise in positioning. BTW, one mod I made was to trim about 7/8" off the top of the leveling rod so it is flush with the top of the tube when the bucket is perfectly level. On the NX series, there is no built-in way to adjust rod height.