First project w Router and other woodworking tools

[tstex]

Hello to all,

I am in the process of ordering 4 blk powder-coated double 1/2" thick hairpin legs, 14" tall, for a coffee table I am making for our outside area in Hou. The table will match the fireplace mantel.

The dimensions of the table are two mirror images of cedar: two 46"L, 10.5" W and 2.75" H. So when joined, it will be 46" x 20" x 2.75" [note, I am ripping both pieces to 10" widths. Here are a few questions:

• What is the best way to join the 2 pieces together?
• I was going to use a round over bit for all of the top edges. How much should I remove? Is it customary to do anything to the bottom perimeter of the table?
• Last thing I was considering was a "V" groove on the inside of the table to follow exactly the perimeter of the table? Two ques: What should be the depth and how far from the perimeter inside should I [customarily] go?

I was going to practice on some older wood re the rounder over cuts. For the "V" groove, I could practice on the bottom, or get a piece of plywood and practice on it top and bottom until I have it refined.

All feedback welcomed [remember, I am using an 18V cordless 1/4" shank router w brand new carbon tipped bits].

Thank you,
tstex

 

[Egon]

Top two boards; glue and clamps with several cauls to keep it flat. The glue edge is strong and doesn’t require biscuits, dowels or tongue and groove. The cauls make for easy alignment. Saran Wrap on the cauls keeps them from being glued on.

The other questions are a matter of personal preference. Practice on scrap is advised.

 

[SandburRanch]

Hello to all,

I am in the process of ordering 4 blk powder-coated double 1/2" thick hairpin legs, 14" tall, for a coffee table I am making for our outside area in Hou. The table will match the fireplace mantel.

The dimensions of the table are two mirror images of cedar: two 46"L, 10.5" W and 2.75" H. So when joined, it will be 46" x 20" x 2.75" [note, I am ripping both pieces to 10" widths. Here are a few questions:

• What is the best way to join the 2 pieces together?
• I was going to use a round over bit for all of the top edges. How much should I remove? Is it customary to do anything to the bottom perimeter of the table?
• Last thing I was considering was a "V" groove on the inside of the table to follow exactly the perimeter of the table? Two ques: What should be the depth and how far from the perimeter inside should I [customarily] go?

I was going to practice on some older wood re the rounder over cuts. For the "V" groove, I could practice on the bottom, or get a piece of plywood and practice on it top and bottom until I have it refined.

All feedback welcomed [remember, I am using an 18V cordless 1/4" shank router w brand new carbon tipped bits].

Thank you,
tstex

You'll get many opinions i suspect , but if not weather protected from rain i wouldn't do a V groove .

To join : something i have always wanted to try is cleat the 2 on the bottom leaving approx . a 1/8" gap between the 2 pieces then Bowtie on top for accent but that may not be correct for your project . Otherwise it would be glue .

The V - i would do the V center maybe 1/2" - 3/4" from edge but , as you mentioned , test on scrap for what you like then picture it completely around the real table top size .

Yes , i would at minimum ease the bottom edge so not to be sharp or possibly a very small radius .

 

[tstex]

Thanks Egon...for 46", how many cauls would you recommend? I will be using 2x4's. Would 1 about every 12" work? Also, how many clamps do you recommend for the clamping the 2 pieces together?

 

[tstex]

Thanks Sranch. Under very extreme conditions, might get some horizontal rain, but I’m going to apply 5-6 coats of polyurethane to every square inch both too, bottom & sides after all woodwork completed. The wood was milled in 2017 so it’s fully cured. It’s the same wood that I made the fireplace mantel, as shown.

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

My advice is practice, practice some more, and then some more practice. While doing all this practice, try the different cuts, depths, and style of the router cuts.
I have 4 different routers and at least 30-40 bits. Before I do the 'final' routing, I always take some scrap and try the edge style that I was thinking about using. There have been many occasions where I decided to change the style.
Just remember.... once you start, you're basically committed.....

As far as number of clamps..... I recently made a hope chest for my daughter. Each panel for the front, back, bottom and top were similar (very close) to the dimensions you have. I used 8 - 3/4" pipe clamps on each panel (every 6 inches). I do not like seeing any glue joints and usually try to match grains. You may not be as picky with the cedar, but use as many as you can.

 

[Egon]

Thanks Egon...for 46", how many cauls would you recommend? I will be using 2x4's. Would 1 about every 12" work? Also, how many clamps do you recommend for the clamping the 2 pieces together?

Three cauls, each end and middle should do it. For the clamps they should be spaced evenly with half on the top the other half on the bottom. The number depends on how many are available.

check out YouTube; you’ll get some good information with pictures.

 

[SandburRanch]

My son has been a avid woodworker ever since age 6 when he caught dad at work and used dad's Sabre saw to make his grandmother a fish shaped cutting board for Christmas of 1/4" plywood . This included wood burning in fins , scales the eye and any other necessary parts . And he knew where dad's best plywood was .

He is going on 60 years now and writes :

I think there are little tiny people inside the cells of wood to team up and have “board” meetings on how to best disrupt the wood workers plans. After they are successful they sit around and laugh about it.

 

[dstig1]

Wow. Kind of like asking "I'd like to learn how to drive. How do you do it?" There is a ton there to unpack. There are an infinite number of ways to approach this, and many of them are style or personal preference.

I could write a book here but will stick to a couple points.

• Wood movement. You need to understand how wood moves with changes in temp, but much more importantly in humidity. Outdoors in Houston from perfectly kiln dried wood is going to move A TON at the start. And not only do you need to understand it, you need to allow for it to happen or it will tear apart your work.
• Glue and finish. These must both be outdoor rated. Generally for varnish (which polyurethane is) that means Spar varnish. For glue you need Type 3 PVA glue, Polyurethane or epoxy. And finish the underside unless you want it to warp like crazy from differential moisture uptake on the two sides.
• Techniques. How you use a router on the edge of a board to roundover for example. The biggest risk of tearout is on end grain, right at the end of the cut. You can put a scrap onto the end to support those last fibers for one. It also helps to route end grain first and then the long grain sides, so if there is tearout on the end grain, you have a shot at cleaning it up on the long grain passes.
• Practice and even consider a prototype if you are unsure. Some scrap plywood or 1x4s can be good enough to show you approximately what something will look like so you can try a few things out and decide before you hit your project.
• And speaking of writing a book, go get some. There are many great books written about wood working that can help you. Taunton Press is a big one. They also publish Fine Woodworking magazine, which is another great resource.

 

[civilian]

Maybe with the tearout on the end grain, what if OP rounded the full depth of the corners to eliminate a sharp corner. Then route around the corner in one pass. Again try on scrap and practice. I also like marine exterior varnish for outside wood projects. If it will hold up on a boat outside all the time, it work for my projects. Even used marine varnish on the dining table because I did not want to worry about sweaty glasses messing up the finish. Jon