Buying Advice First time buyer looking for CUT for 10 semi wooded acres

[ORBrit]

Hi,

I've been lurking a while, and am finally ready to take the plunge.
As far as dealer selection in my area (nearest town is 25 miles), we have:

John Deere
Kubota
Mahindra
Yanmar and New Holland

The nearest Kioti dealer is almost 100 miles away.

Can't seem to get reliable reviews about any of the dealers for the tractor side of their business.

As far as use, I will need to mow a couple acres of field, some sloping banks, maintain a gravel driveway, move dirt for a garden and various landscaping projects, clear a lot of brush and get in and around trees.

I'm thinking a 22-26HP compact and will want a mower (maybe a flail?), box scraper, and landscape rake. Maybe a PTO chipper and post hole digger in the future. Depends on the incentives from the dealer for timing of buying now vs later.
So far I'm considering: (all prices with just FEL)

John Deere 2025R - $17500
Kubota B2301- $16100
Kubota B2601 - $17250
Mahindra Max 26XL - waiting on price
New Holland Boomer 24 - $16900
Yanmar 424 - $16,700

Are these even all comparable?

The Yanmar dealer also has a new 2014 Yanmar EX3200 for $17900 (Tier 3). Would this be the best deal for additional size, power and weight?

Should I only be considering those with 3 range HST or is 2 range still OK?

I have a 3500 lb rated single axle trailer (6x10) that weighs 1100 lbs empty. Would that be sufficient for the a tractor with loader attached? (Kubota B2601 shows 1632 lbs without loader).


Thanks for any advice, tips, suggestions.

 

[747driver]

I have a Kioti and it works great...but your dealer is a good ways away. I have a 16 ft trailer with dual axle and brakes. You need to figure in the total length of having a FEL on and see how long that is. Never hurts to get the dual axle...for later on.

What kind of implements do you want and how much pto hp will it take to use them. HST tractors lose hp at the pto...meaning i have a 28 hp engine but pto is top end rated at 24 hp. Usually whatever size you think you might need go one size higher. By the looks of things i think your minimum size to start with is 25 hp.

Look at the weight of each one, heavier is better. How many gpm does the hydraulic pump put out. Seat in the seat and see how the controls work and fits for you. How wide is the tractor...mowing on slopes is better to have a wider tire track.

Good luck in your search !!

 

[jeff9366]

AUGUST 2010

I have 10.5 mostly flat acres of property - with about 6.5 acres being forested.

The rest is about and acre of cleared land for building (barn, house, vehicle turnaround etc.) and then there is a 1 acre meadow, and a 400' gravel driveway.

I intend to use a small tractor for brush hogging, loader tasks to thin out the forest, box blade for maintaining the driveway, possibly a chipper and post hole digger later on.

You have been looking for six years!

About all tractors with 9" ground clearance have two speed HST transmissions.

One increment larger tractors, with 12" ground clearance, have three speed HST transmissions.

About 12-mph ground speed for both. The three speed gives you one additional torque option.

I will generalize that the tractors you are considering have nil protection for the front axles and everything routed under the tractor. Get down on your knees and look. If you need to clear "a lot of brush" I would have the dealer install undercarriage AND front axle shielding before delivery.

LINK TO UNDERARMOUR THREADS: tractor armour - Google Search

Only dilettantes purchase Flail Mowers. Rotary Cutters, such as the Bush Hog (brand) are simpler, more robust, faster through verdure and more fuel efficient. I speculate that flails are less than 2% of the flail/rotary cutter universe.

ALL brush mowers are more efficient chopping horizontal material. Unadorned tractor buckets are at best 'fair' at toppling brush. A Ratchet Rake bucket attachment is superb at knocking down brush and minor grading, BUT YOU CANNOT DIG WITH A RATCHET RAKE ATTACHED. A Piranha Tooth Bar bucket attachment is fairly good at knocking down brush, very good at digging BUT NO MORE EFFECTIVE AT GRADING THAN THE BARE BUCKET. Get one or the other bucket attachment for your woods work, driveway work and garden needs.

The T-B-N STORE, button at top of this page, sells the Ratchet Rake.

VIDEO: ratchet rake brush clearing - YouTube

I owned a Wallenstein chipper. Unless you have a tree farm, a chipper is not worth the maintenance it requires beginning in year two. Burn your debris.

Soon you will have to decide if you need a Finish Mower for turf in addition to a Rotary Cutter for brush.

I own a Box Blade, which I do not use for road work. For gravel driveway maintenance consider a Land Plane/Grading Scraper. LPGS grades faster and is easier to operate than a Box Blade. Box Blade is a medium skill level implement. LPGS requires minimal operating skill.

VIDEO: land plane grading scraper - YouTube

Consider a PTO powered Roto-Tiller for your garden.

Design your garage with a door tall enough for the tractor to enter with the ROPS up. If you need to fold the ROPS you will forget occasionally and bang up the garage trim. That will make your spouse angry. Then you will forget the ROPS again, and she will be livid. Then.......

Your profile does not include your location. If you are within 1,000 miles of North Carolina I give Everything Attachments (ETA) very high marks on their Landscape Rakes. Do not buy a Countyline/Tarter Landscape Rake from Tractor Supply Co.

I am going to close with a plug for the new Kubota L2501. It is SO MUCH EASIER to mount implements with the additional open space around the L2501 Three Point Hitch.

Kubota LINK: Compact Tractors | L2501 | Kubota Tractor Corporation

 

[newbury]

Hi,

I've been lurking a while, and am finally ready to take the plunge.
As far as dealer selection in my area (nearest town is 25 miles), we have:<snip>

Finally, someone taking longer than I do to decide

You have been looking a long time.

Hey, I resemble that remark!

About all tractors with 9" ground clearance have two speed HST transmissions.

One increment larger tractors, with 12" or more ground clearance, have three speed transmissions.

About 12-mph ground speed for both. The three speed gives you one additional torque option.

I would generalize that the tractors you are considering have very little protection for the front axles and everything routed under the tractor. Get down on you knees and look. If you need to clear "a lot of brush" I would have the dealer install undercarriage shielding, which will be cheaper than repairs after the first year.

LINK TO UNDERARMOUR THREADS: BX tractor armour - Google Search

I owned a Wallenstein chipper. Unless you have a tree farm, the chipper in not worth the maintenance it requires. Burn your debris.

That's IF you can burn!

Only dilettantes purchase Flair Mowers. Rotary Cutters, such as the Bush Hog (brand) are much simpler, more robust, faster through verdure and more fuel efficient. I speculate that flails are less than 2% of the flail/rotary cutter universe.

Soon you will have to decide if you need a Finish Mower for turf in addition to a Rotary Cutter for brush.

Your profile does not include your location. If you are anywhere around North Carolina I give Everything Attachments (ETA) very high marks on their Landscape Rakes.

OP - I'm not one to usually advise MORE power but for 10 acres the B2601 MAY get you by. But I would strongly suggest at least 25 PTO horsepower. And a bigger trailer.

 

[varmint]

Well, more weight, more power always is good, until things get so heavy you can't drive on grass without leaving ruts, or too big to navigate in the woods. How about a SSQA loader bucket, so you can get a grapple- very handy for messing with trees and debris. Unless you are planning on trailering the tractor often, I wouldn't let that determine what tractor you are buying. Pretty much anything that matches your needs will be too heavy when equipped to safely trailer with what you have- 2400 lbs ain't much for a CUT with loader and some other goodies.

 

[RSKY]

From my limited experience a tandem axle trailer is much less likely to fishtail if loaded improperly. I would not haul an expensive toy, excuse me, tractor on a single axle trailer. Most tractors nowadays are good. I would not consider anything but a hydro. There are just too many advantages to one. Whatever you get you will enjoy for years.

 

[xring100]

I wouldnt let your trailer dictate the size of the equipment you purchase especially if it will be used mainly for your own property.

I think you will end up like two of my neighbors with 10 acres regretting their purchases. B2400 and JD2305e


I would personally be looking at a mid or upper horsepower JD3 series or Kubota L60 sized tractor at a minimum. If i had a second tractor for my 10 acres i would like something around 40 hp to compliment my current 85 hp.


Both my tractor and zero turn were delivered for free.

 

[Tompet]

I am going to close with a plug for the new Kubota L2501. It is SO MUCH EASIER to mount implements with the additional open space around the L2501 Three Point Hitch.

Kubota LINK: Compact Tractors | L2501 | Kubota Tractor Corporation

Agree with this suggestion and of the tractors on your initial list, the Yanmar 3200 would be my choice and about the smallest I would want for your size property.
I would suggest selling your trailer or getting another larger trailer (double axle with brakes) for hauling any of the tractors you listed.

 

[ORBrit]

You have been looking for six years!

Yeah, our original plans to build our house out here took a little longer than we originally thought.

A Ratchet Rake bucket attachment is superb at knocking down brush and minor grading, BUT YOU CANNOT DIG WITH A RATCHET RAKE ATTACHED. A Piranha Tooth Bar bucket attachment is fairly good at knocking down brush, very good at digging but LESS EFFECTIVE AT GRADING. Get one or the other bucket attachment for your woods work, driveway work and garden needs.

The T-B-N STORE, button at top of this page, sells the Ratchet Rake.

Thanks for the tip - I've a lot to learn about loader operation.

Unless you have a tree farm, a chipper is not worth the maintenance it requires. Burn your debris.

Would you say that with a ratchet rake and brush mower, that would take care of anything under 2" in diameter?
We have a lot of vine maple, growing thick between the big firs.

I own a Box Blade, which I do not use for road work. For gravel driveway maintenance consider a Land Plane/Grading Scraper. LPGS grades faster and is easier to operate than a Box Blade. Box Blade is a medium skill level implement. LPGS requires minimal operating skill.

Would a land plane work for leveling out bumps in a grass meadow?

Design your garage with a door tall enough for the tractor to enter with the ROPS up.

I built my barn with a 10' wide by 13' tall door knowing there would be toys one day!

Your profile does not include your location.

I'm in Lane County Oregon.

 

[jeff9366]

Would a ratchet rake and brush mower take care of everything under 2" diameter?
We have a lot of vine maple, growing thick between big firs.

We have Southern Maple in Florida. Southern Maple is hard. I do not know what Vine Maple is.

That depends on how heavy a tractor you acquire and how heavy a Rotary Cutter you acquire. They are the right tools but the tractors you have listed in Post #1 are light for powering Rotary Cutters capable of cutting 2" material and remaining reliable over years. You can cut 2" material for a short time with a medium duty Rotary Cutter but over time you will beat up the gearbox, bearings, tail wheel assembly and blades and be in for $$ repairs. For 2" material I would buy a Rotary Cutter with a gearbox rated at twice the horsepower of the tractor.

For 2" material and staying with tractors on your list, consider a good quality, battery powered reciprocating saw, with a 9" pruning blade or 9" Milwaukee Sawzall brand 'THE AXE' blade. For 2" material a battery saw is faster and much safer than a chainsaw.

A Rotary Cutter trails quite far behind the tractor. If you acquire a Rotary Cutter even slightly wider than your rear tires, in woods work you will pass the tractor between some trees, but the trailing R/C will jam. It can be very difficult to maneuver a R/C and tractor combo IN REVERSE, in the woods. For woods work, buy a R/C no wider than your rear tires, preferably 9" to 12" narrower.

You will have several tire choices when you buy a new tractor. Tire choice will vary tractor max width width by several inches. If you have persistent mud on your property you will likely want R1 - Ag tires. If you do not have persistent mud you will probably want R4 - Industrial tires, which are the most puncture resistant tractor tire and are generally recommended when an FEL is on a tractor because of the additional support R4s provide.

Ratchet Rake is the right bucket attachment for de-vining. I have years of experience removing wild grape and wild climbing rose.

Would a land plane level bumps in a grass meadow?

BUMPS is an imprecise term. The Ratchet Rake might suffice solo. See Photo #6.

The ability of ground contact implements to cut is proportional to weight per unit of width. This seems hard for tractor newbies to grasp. It the grass is scalped in the meadow, and the soil moisture is optimum, a heavy LPGS should smooth fine. Your meadow is only one acre. The videos should have given you a good idea. However, local conditions make a significant difference and you are in Oregon and I in Florida. Discuss with your dealer. If you acquire a roto-tiller it will help smooth your meadow. You would likely want to overseed after smoothing.

LAND PLANE OR BOX SCRAPER LINK: Google

SMOOTHING PASTURE LINK: Google

SMOOTHING MEADOW LINK: Google

I'm in Lane County Oregon. Insert your location, including one city, into your profile so information is always available. Then we know something about your soil, rain and ag suppliers. Someone may tip you about a good used tractor nearby. Equipment tips occur regularly.