First Time PLowing - Maybe this weekend

[jeff9366]

'FARMWITHJUNK' ON PLOWS​

Re: Setting up a moldboard plow

With a mounted plow, the 3-point top link SHOULD be straight in line (front to rear) with the centerline of the tractor. There is SOME leeway with that, but "in a perfect world", it should be straight.

In that same "perfect world", you set the tractor to match the plow, and NOT the other way around. Any plow has what is called the "line of draft". That is essentially the center of the work load.... That lime of draft should be centered behind the tractor, THEN, the furrow side rear wheel of the tractor should be set just to the outside of the front bottom.

Width changes (increases) with a 3-bottom plow (or larger)

With the majority of newer tractors having all sorts of different tire combinations, (ie R4,s turfs, ect) and the lack of adjustability of track width, SOME deviation from "the rules" may be needed to get a plow to track behind any given tractor.

As far as the offset drawbar..... The offset is there to level the plow when furrow side wheels are in the furrow. Rotating that drawbar is NOT to be used to level the plow from side to side..... That's a job for the leveling cranks on the 3-point hitch. Rotating the offset drawbar will skew the rear of the plow left or right depending on which direction the drawbar is rotated. That will put more (or less) pressure against the landslides, which will in turn make the plow want to follow left of center or right of center. (and you DO NOT use stabilizer bars/links on the 3-point hitch to hold the plow where you want it.) Skew the rear towards the furrow and the plowtends to track to the LAND side, as pressure against the landslides decreased.. Skew the rear of the plow towards the land side, and the plow will track towards the furrow side, as pressure against the landslides is increased.

If you have more than enough tractor (weight and hp) for the particular plow you're using, it's possible for a tractor to "manhandle" the plow when it isn't in proper adjustment. If you're operating anywhere near peak draft load, a plow would need to be "by the book" or else it would pull like the proverbial boat anchor.

With a well designed plow, attached to the tractor correctly, and everything in proper adjustment, and the plow glides through the ground ALMOST effortlessly. Deviate from "perfect" very far and you suddenly have a fight on your hands.

 

[Dave5264]

Ah...ok so am i right in saying the leveling rules :

1) top link will control the horizontal plane - front to back
2) 3pt leveling cranks will control the horizontal plane - side to side
3) the offset plow bar will swing the rear of the plow one way or the other (left or right) to help ensure it tracks straight

 

[jeff9366]

Dave5264: Ah...ok so am i right in saying the leveling rules :

1) top link will control the horizontal plane - front to back YES.

2) 3pt leveling cranks will control the horizontal plane - side to side YES

Only tractors with hydraulic T 'n T have adjustments on both sides, both usually Lifting Rods, not cranks.

Right Lifting Rod raises and lowers right side of mounted implement; left side of implement is slave.

3) the offset plow bar will swing the rear of the plow one way or the other (left or right) to help ensure it tracks straight.

Adjusted properly the plow will pull CENTERED, probably straight.

 

[Dave5264]

Very helpful Jeff, thanks

 

[Timm250]

Here's a video of a 4 bottom Ford 101 plow in some ground I cleaned up about 2 years ago. I am putting it back into pasture/hay.

https://youtu.be/hJZrd-E0PEU

 

[jeff9366]

TIMM250: I liked your video. Thanks for posting.

How long have you had the Ford 101 plow? Any interesting history?

Which tractor pulls it?

How often does the plow get a workout?

 

[Dave5264]

Thanks Timm250, ill take a look

 

[Timm250]

The plow belonged to a neighbor that passed away about 15 years ago. The plow had been sitting for about 25 years without being used.

I had been cutting hay off his farm & tried to buy it from his wife about 5 years ago but she wouldn't sell it.

About 2 months ago she called & asked if I still wanted the plow. I told her sure & asked how much. She said if you will come get it it's free. It is going to rust away sitting out there in the bushes.

I went over to pick it up & it had grown up around it until I couldn't even see it. I used my pallet forks to push the brush down until I got it where I could see enough of it to pick it up.

The video is the first time I used the plow. I am pulling it with a 2009 Case Farmall 95.

The field I was breaking is about 15 acres that I cleared & sowed for pasture/hay.

 

[jeff9366]

And the moldboards were OK after 25 years in the weather?

The moldboards on my Ford 101 rust immediately if I do not apply Rustoleum spray primer.

Good story. I am glad I inquired.

 

[Timm250]

They were rusted pretty heavily but cleaned right up. By the time I was finished with the field 2 were about 99% rust free & the other 2 were probably 85% clean.

2 coulters were frozen and I took the grease zerk out & sprayed PB Blaster in them & let them sit for a day. That softened the old grease & rust enough to get them working.

The neighbor bought the plow new about 1971 or 72. It was a 3 bottom & he bought a kit or something to add the 4th bottom according to his wife.