Buying Advice First Tractor purchase advice

[airbiscuit]

Also qoted about $1400 for 60" grader scraper from LP. $1568 for 60" LP rotary cutter. $2700 for 72" finish mower...

Any feedback on those prices? Is LP good implements? Being able to finance them at 0% is a plus but I still don't want to overpay.

I looked at and drove the L series todays. I think if I go with a Kubota, I'm pretty sold on a B2650.

Thinking just the 60" rotary for now to mow with. Then decide on either a 72" tow finishe mower or dedicated mower later. The issue I have with dedicated mower here might be dust... It is very dry and dusty here, not like back in VA, where it was like a jungle.

Thinking of passing on the rear blade in favor of the scraper. Still torn on whether I need a front blade for snow. Is a manual vs hydrolic blade ok to work with? By the time I add hydro blade and 3rd function for it, I'm out an extra $2k or so... Don't plan on needing a grapple here.

Forgot to ask dealer about a tiller.

Look on Craigslist for the cost of used equipment to get an idea of what is possible for cost. Landpride makes very good equipment. That said, I have had very good luck with King Kutter and found it to be a good value (less than 1/2 the price you listed above). Your property looks to be relatively "civilized".

 

[Tompet]

Dealer said the optional quick attach is the universal SSQA. No? I see only one option on the build your own kubota site.

Also he quoted me 4000lb forks. Wouldn't that be overkill (and unnecessary added weight). $885

Also qoted about $1400 for 60" grader scraper from LP. $1568 for 60" LP rotary cutter. $2700 for 72" finish mower...

Any feedback on those prices? Is LP good implements? Being able to finance them at 0% is a plus but I still don't want to overpay.

I looked at and drove the L series todays. I think if I go with a Kubota, I'm pretty sold on a B2650.

Thinking just the 60" rotary for now to mow with. Then decide on either a 72" tow finishe mower or dedicated mower later. The issue I have with dedicated mower here might be dust... It is very dry and dusty here, not like back in VA, where it was like a jungle.

Thinking of passing on the rear blade in favor of the scraper. Still torn on whether I need a front blade for snow. Is a manual vs hydrolic blade ok to work with? By the time I add hydro blade and 3rd function for it, I'm out an extra $2k or so... Don't plan on needing a grapple here.

Forgot to ask dealer about a tiller.

You are good on the ssqa.

You are correct on the forks, overkill and overweight for that tractor. See attached, I have a set of these and they have been very good. They do not “fall away” (forgot proper term) when pointing down. The latest model has indexed bar for moving individual tines. Your dealer may be able to order these or Everything attachments carried them last time I checked. Anyway, just a suggestion on appropriate size.

LP are very good quality implements, no worry.
Is that price on 5' grader scraper with ripper teeth? If so, ok priice, maybe you could do a little better. This and rotary cutter is a good start.

As airbiscuit said you can hunt up other used implements like a rear blade (for snow?) later on. A hydro front blade vs manual, if you go that route is much nicer than a manual, no doubt. Or rear or front mount snowblower in future?

You are getting FEL, why the need for 3rd function with a hydraulic front blade vs using FEL valve? Maybe someone can explain?

If there are some implements you get a quote on, but wind up not purchasing, ask dealer how long original quotes on remaining will be held.

If,you do get a dedicated mower, I suggest a mulching kit as that cuts down a lot on the dust.

Seems you have a pretty good grasp on what you want/need.

 

[roadhunter]

From my experience with a 45 HP Bobcat/Kioti tractor dealing with snow drifts and a driveway I would not have wanted anything smaller. What concerns me is the grade of your property. That tractor I had always made me pucker up on slopes or even ruts sometimes moving snow as it just felt unstable side to side. I think having the large rear tires made the center of gravity higher and it was only 5 ft wide if I remember correctly.

I purchased that one with a SSQA, Bucket, forks, and a rear box blade. I found the rear box blade to be better than the FEL for most snow work. I put a board on it to push more. I could see it really well from my seat and with the hydraulic top link I could scrape everything but ice pretty easily. Hydraulic top link is well worth it IMO. The box blade also makes a good counterweight which is necessary IMO if you want to get aggressive with the FEL moving heavy snow was all that bobcat wanted. I suspect a rear blower would work pretty good for what you are doing.




For your uneven land I would try to find something with a lower center of gravity (smaller rear tires) or a wider stance to help give you stability. Ballast for tires as well as chains woudl also be helpful for the terrain and work you plan to do.

 

[varmint]

Having cleared snow with a rear blade, then a front plow, I can say the plow is 10 times better. And, if you do get a plow, you will soon want hydraulic angling- trust me on that. I think you could install a rear remote and hoses for maybe under a $1000. Wide rear wheels and chains would give a comfort factor. I see online a useful 42" 3000lb pallet forks available from Titan for $429 delivered...

Last opinion: if you'll be mowing in dry conditions, wouldn't you rather have the dust cloud behind you, rather than below you?

 

[airbiscuit]

Is the rear blade all I need for grading the drive, or should I look into a box grader or scraper?

Wow, your driveway looks good. Lots of gravel. A rear blade or box blade (with guide wheels) would work well and a land plane/dual blade grader would work great. Here is what I made to maintain my 1/2 mile driveway:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=URHteVfiYDI

ube.com/watch?v=URHteVfiYDI"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=URHteVfiYDI[/URL]

 

[AxleHub]

CobaltBlue,

You obviously just moved to a very nice home and a laundry list of thoughts on the good looking property potential. I'd consider a few things.

1. Go look at a few other dealers like Massey, kioti, etc. And do it soon. Why? Well I figured out that FIL stands for father in law and he owns a kubota and that's what you 1st went to see. So by going to some other dealers just to look (even quickly) . . . you downplay the expectation of Kubota so you can not feel obligated to go his choice. I know it sounds odd . . . but "slowing the decision train down" . . I think . . . is a good plan

2. I'd walk the property with a d handle shovel and I'd dig a couple shovelsful down in numerous places to discover what your soils are and where they are. Are you in clay or sand or shale bed or rocks or ???. This will give you an idea of lawn potential vs. pasture vs. Semi arid. Then I'd find a lawnmower to temporarily use to ride the property to get an idea of roughness vs. Smoothness vs. Water runs etc. It isn't so important to cut the grass but morebto get your butt feeling how rough is the land . . .and where is it like that. In my thinking . . to plan your land you have to feel and see your land . . . but not on an atv or truck or at a distance.

3. If it hasn't been cared for in a couple years . . the above might give you some ideas what it could become . . and right now mother nsture is hiding it from you . Now once you get an idea the types of soils and feel the roughness of the terrain locations . . you get a better idea of tractor needs.

4. So now let me assume a couple things with that information. The house looks really nice and "not small". Maybe a 1 acre yard might be a little small for that house And maybe you'll have some pets or kids/grandkids coming over. Would you fence the yard to keep wandering animals away from the lawn. Or maybe a firepit further away from the house for privacy or ??? My point is . . Its a nice house and you have nice property and you may want more safe "family space" than just 1 acre.

5. Next . . Looks like a nice but easy driveway. You could plow it or snowblow it with about any size scut or cut tractors. IMO its an easy driveway. So bigger tractor issues become lawn vs. tilling vs. Pasture vs dirt work vs. Landscaping/tree work. Do you have high winds that create drifting or need wind breaks?


6. Depending on the dealers in your 60 mile radius . . I'd look at the Massey 1700 series tractors both e series and non e series. I'd look at yanmar 424 size or the kubotas you started with or maybe you could snap up a deal on a Cabelas closeout etc. Etc.. It doesn't "seem" like you need some big tractor because your pictures show easy slopes and lots of open land. But pictures can be deceiving as can assumptions. I walked and rode my land several times because its secrets were hidden from my eyesight by tall grass and weeds.

I think you have the potential for a very family friendly and very attractive property and a very nice house to landscape around.

P.s. you can get 3rd party cabs designed to fit many models from 800 dollars on up rather than genuine cabs at thousands. Also if you look at subcompacts . . Then numerousv3rd party implements are available that are dedigned with less weight but more efficient use. Ssqa is one quick attach method . . Not always the best one.

Jmho

 

[jodebg]

Have you considered a good used tractor...more bang for the buck, lower tier, less depreciation, and no sales tax.

 

[TJP89]

OK, my first thought is 25HP is ridiculously small for that size land and tasks planned. I would go no smaller than 35HP, and likely bigger, maybe 45HP. Most of our snow is heavier, but once there is a foot or so down, I'm really glad I have 35HP and 3500# worth of 4WD tractor. Implements seem right: Rotary cutter for the rough stuff. The FEL and rear blade combo is pretty good for snow. Could it be improved? Sure, but it's cheap and it works. Hydraulics for the blade make grading and snow plowing easier, but are not required and are pricey. Also, get a dedicated mower for the yard, the tractor is not the right tool for that. Also, if you're looking at a tractor that an take a MMM, you are looking at the wrong tractor for your property. I may have missed budget considerations, but I would urge you to go bigger. Also, look at other things beside Kubota, they are a good maker don't get me wrong, but contrary to what they would have you believe, they are not the only decent tractor maker around.

 

[fried1765]

Wow, your driveway looks good. Lots of gravel. A rear blade or box blade (with guide wheels) would work well and a land plane/dual blade grader would work great. Here is what I made to maintain my 1/2 mile driveway:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=URHteVfiYDI

View attachment 459771ube.com/watch?v=URHteVfiYDI"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=URHteVfiYDI[/URL]

View attachment 459771 View attachment 459772

I am curious.
How do you turn that "road drag" around?

 

[airbiscuit]

I have a turn around driveway, and I just do a U Turn when I get to the main road. My neighbor used to pull it with his pick up, and when he came top the end, he just did a series of back up and pull aheads until he was pointed in the right direction. The drag just spins around.