Buying Advice First Tractor Recommendation for 40 Acres in NC

[jeff9366]

On a Category 2 TPH you can also use Category 1 implements by shimming the Category 1 pins to a fatter diameter. So you have options: Category 1 implements or heavier, wider Category 2 implements.

Everything Attachments is an excellent implement manufacturer and vender located in North Carolina. I buy from many implement venders but I have more implements from Everything Attachments than anyone else. Their videos are very informative.

LINK: Tractor Attachments And Skid Steer Attachments For Any Tractor Or Skid Steer

https://www.lsuagcenter.com/~/media...aa214276e14dacb/pub2917tractorimplements1.pdf


You may or may not want to have rear tires 1/2 or 3/4 filled with liquid. I am in the minority that inflates my tires with air because I am hypersensitive about compacting the ground. Horses hooves, however, compact the ground harder over time than any tractor will, so you may (or may not) wish to "load" rear tires for ballast and traction. I am only 75% in agreement with two following links:

LOADING REAR TIRES: OrangeTractorTalks >> Comparing Types of Liquid Tire Ballast
OrangeTractorTalks >> 6 Reasons to Liquid Ballast your Kubota’s Tires

For its weight your tractor has modest horsepower, about the same ratio of pounds per horsepower as mine. With modest horsepower there is less concern about breaking traction than with more horsepower. (Tractor weight is more important than tractor horsepower.)

Regardless of whether you "load" rear tires or not, you will need a heavy counterbalance implement on the TPH in order to effect max lifts with the Loader. Without enough counterbalance a very heavy Loader lift will make tractor pivot on the front wheels, lifting the rear wheels off the ground. This is just too exciting; you never want to experience it.

 

[Cruiserdog]

I’m going to go with the smaller option. Why not get a heavy, 35-40 hp tractor and use a post hole digger rather than a “pounder”? It will be less expensive, more maneauverable and will do what you need done. Seems that everybody pushes toward 50-60 hp tractors for smaller places, forgetting that for decades the old Ford 8N was”the” tractor used for almost everything and it was what, 26 hp or so and 2wd. It was pretty heavy, and that’s what did the work. Lower hp and more weight will bear more hp and less weight pretty well every time in overall usefulness. YMMV

 

[Jchonline]

YOu arent going to get the pump rated flow at the 3rd function valves.

On Deere website it lists flow at a rear Scv as 11.5 gpm. 5E Series (45-75 hp) Utility Tractors | 545E | John Deere US

To make it function well, I would go for a machine with the flow rating in the center of the range. So if tool is 10-20, look for 15.

The M7060 doesnt have 16 gpm out the front valve. My dad has one. It is somewhere around 10.

In a nutshell, you probably should not try and go for a hydraulic unit on a tractor. You either need too large of a machine, or a hydraulic pack.

That said the machine you have chosen will not get to 12 gpm.

 

[RickB]

I read elsewhere of folks using an old tractor with 9 gpm flow at the rear with their Shaver HD-10 and still having acceptable results, so 10.9 gpm should be good.

Do not lose sight of that fact.^^^
Focus on your loader lift capacity needs and having a tractor properly ballasted to optimize the loader capacity. Anything you are likely to buy will have the capability to take care of your mowing chores.

 

[two_bit_score]

:welcome:

 

[ipegasus]

I realize that NC is a temperate climate compared to the Midwest. Here is why I really appreciate a tractor with a cab, heat and air.

 

[Bullwinkle123]

Naive suggestions, I have no experience with post hole pounders and I'm a rookie tractor owner.

1. When buying chippers, you can get them such that they have their own dedicated hydraulics, yet still derive all their power from the tractor PTO. Are there post hole pounders with similar independent hydraulic setups? It just seems that requiring the hydraulics from the tractor may be working against the grain. I've been considering a Woodmaxx 8H or something like that, comes with its own hydraulics. Also saves me thousands of dollars in costs adding rear hydraulic hookups to the tractor.

2. My Kubota MX5400 is a "type 1 & 2" 3PH. So it can take cat 2 implements and uses adapters for smaller things, maybe a similar tractor would work for you? As in, perhaps it is minimally enough ... sturdier ... for post hole pounding, without going overboard on cost. Bare tractor weight is 3734 pounds, but with loaded rears and attachments you're wheeling around something approaching 4 tons.

 

[jeff9366]

Horses hooves compact ground harder over time than any tractor will, so you may (or may not) wish to "load" rear tires for ballast and traction.

To keep your pasture productive you will have to loosen the ground occasionally. May be once every six months, once per year or every third year but occasionally. There are numerous forms of Renovators sold for this purpose. Many use Chisel Plows. Both break the surface, allowing air, water and fertilizer to enter while preserving the grass.

The following implement terms are imprecise: Chisel Plow, Field Cultivator, Renovator, Ripper.

MILLER HAY KING RENOVATOR: Hay King Renovators - Hay King - Miller

BUCKEYE TRACTOR - COMPACT TRACTOR CHISEL PLOWS: Buckeye Tractor Online Catalog Page 18-01 Chisel Plows



A coil-spring protected Field Cultivator is not sufficiently robust for loosening hoof compacted pasture but following thread will give you insight:

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/339095-dirt-dog-all-purpose-plow.html?highlight=

 

[airbiscuit]

This is also interesting.

 

[Silly Filly]

Thanks again for all the input and I hope everyone had a great 4th weekend (or first, eh)!

Sounds like some folks are saying a 5,000 LB, 45HP tractor is too small, or too big, or just right, so it seems like I’m roughly in the right tractor size ballpark. The heaviest loader use will be for moving dirt and gravel (and maybe large hay bales) occasionally (basically maxing out the 520M loader I’m looking at). Weekly chores will be moving manure, probably a ½ yard at a time with a 6’ bucket. I think I can get away with using the bush hog as a counter weight for heavier stuff. I'm sure there's more we can do with the tractor, but a wheelbarrow and bedding fork have worked fine for us the past several years and I don't want to spoil myself too quickly!

It’s a little early for soil samples, but I’m going to take some from the tobacco field anyway. They’re about a month away from harvesting, then depending on our timeline, we may let the farmer plant one more round of tobacco before we convert it to pasture this fall. I’ll take some samples of the prairie too since I’ll likely overseed that this fall as well. Total workable acres will be 30 acres.

So I was a little off on my fence requirements y’all... Apparently we will be fencing up 2.1 miles (11,440 ft) for pastures first and then remaining 1.3 miles (6,800 ft) of less essential fencing will be done later. That’s what our $120k quote was for. With that much fencing I will be avoiding using an auger as much as I can.

Hoof compaction is a good point and something I overlooked. I was thinking about aerating the pastures somehow, but never thought to use a chisel plow or even a subsoiler.