First Turbo Tractor, Teach Me, Help Select Best Attachments

[CADplans]

I wrote the check for a JD 4105, it has a turbo,,
This is my first ever turbo, I have driven a turbo in the past, but, never owned one.

I like the fact that it makes 32.5 pto HP at only 2800RPM pto speed.
BUT, after reading many threads, all I ended up with is more questions.

With a turbo, is it best to operate at near its capacity? or let the engine "loaf"?
Most of the tractor's duties will be mowing,,, I kinda think a 72" mower will let the tractor loaf.
I could get an 84" finish mower,, THAT would make the engine work hard,,,

What oil should I run? Is synthetic best for a turbo?
I guess the manual will recommend the right weight oil?

RPMs,,, is long term use, like hauling firewood, at low RPM engine speed bad for a turbo?
OR, do I have to keep engine speed up to insure adequate lube to the turbo?

The engine is only 1.5 liter,, is that good, or bad fuel economy-wise?

My other use of a 72" mower is gasoline powered,, it can use close to 3 gallons an hour.

So, help me out,, I want to be ready when the tractor arrives,,, :dance1:

 

[GManBart]

From the kind of user perspective you have, almost none of that matters. The one thing a turbo owner should be aware of, and is usually covered in the operator's manual, is to give the turbo time to cool down after you've been running it under a load for a while. Normally a couple of minutes idling before shutting down is more than enough.

A second, lesser consideration, is that some manufacturers want the engine turned over to develop oil pressure/flow to the turbo if the engine hasn't run in a while. My backhoe manual states you should unplug a particular circuit to the injector pump and crank the engine for something like ten seconds before starting if the engine hasn't run in two weeks (going off memory).

I like synthetic oil regardless of turbo/naturally aspirated, but that's an argument that will take on a life of it's own.

 

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

My 4320 is turboed, I just run it like any other tractor, if it's FEL pallet fork work then I keep the RPM's low and run in mid range. come to think of it I rarely run the tractor at PTO speed, which I don't remember what the speed is (gauge is marked).

I will be following this to see if there's anything different I need to do.

I have only racked up maybe 20 hours on the tractor so far.

 

[redman135]

Hello CADplans, When running a mower , run it at 540 pto rpm. The engine is quite happy to run at these revs all day, and you will have a better finish.
A turbo engine with the same output as a naturally aspirated engine on the same job will be more economical due to it's smaller engine volume.
When mowing, you can use a small mower/brushog and drive faster(you pound your self and the machinery) or you can get a larger mower/ brushog and drive slower (you are far less tired and the machinery lasts much better).
Turbo use and care. ALWAYS feed it clean oil AND clean air (follow the manual). Lastly , when it has been working hard give it 2 or 3 minutes to cool down before shutting down. Following these 3 points will mean a long and trouble free life for the turbo.

 

[brown40]

Congratulations. Synthetics stand up to the heat best, and the turbo generates a lot--but dino oil changed regularly is fine. Cool-down time is based on the heat you've created during the work. The danger is a hot turbo can cook off the residual oil and degrade it. Some recommend plugging the exhaust or intake during towing to prevent the charger from freewheeling without oil being exchanged--there's some dispute about the practice--I do plug the exhaust with a small plastic bottle if/when I tow.
Your power curve in a turbocharged unit is typically shaped differently than a normally aspirated unit--steeper when the turbo starts spooling up. You only need the power necessary for the job you're doing, and generally on small units, its the PTO work that can challenge them. I have a turbo 3520 after having a normal 3320, and it (feels to me like it) has less power at low RPM, is pretty similar between 1800-2100, then surpasses the normally aspirated one.
Biggest thing would be to get familiar with your unit, and you'll feel when the engine needs more throttle. Heat is the biggest killer of turbos, fluids--the whole thing--pay attention to your screens and intakes to keep airflow clean and free.

 

[RickB]

From the kind of user perspective you have, almost none of that matters. The one thing a turbo owner should be aware of, and is usually covered in the operator's manual, is to give the turbo time to cool down after you've been running it under a load for a while. Normally a couple of minutes idling before shutting down is more than enough.

Agree 100%

 

[Texasmark]

I will be following this to see if there's anything different I need to do.

I have only racked up maybe 20 hours on the tractor so far.

I recall your original post but forget the timeline. One thing that needs to be considered is keeping the condensation out of your oils. Noticing your location and it being winter especially, a good workout every so often, getting the engine up into thermostat opening temp range and all for awhile (half hour for a number), surely wouldn't hurt. I think all new engines these days have tin plated rings which don't require "break in" like used to be the case, but if you have a good plow and can hook to that ever so often it may be/probably will be to your advantage.

 

[CADplans]

I recall your original post but forget the timeline. One thing that needs to be considered is keeping the condensation out of your oils. Noticing your location and it being winter especially, a good workout every so often, getting the engine up into thermostat opening temp range and all for awhile (half hour for a number), surely wouldn't hurt.

So,, a block heater might be a nicety for a turbo equipped tractor??

 

[LD1]

Agree that almost none of it matters.

But read the manual. I will caution one thing....But have never experienced it...

Some say that if you are towing/trailering the machine, if the exhaust load the machine in a manner that points the exhaust rearward. Because at road speed, the air blowing into the exhaust can spin the turbo.

 

[CADplans]

Some say that if you are towing/trailering the machine, if the exhaust load the machine in a manner that points the exhaust rearward. Because at road speed, the air blowing into the exhaust can spin the turbo.

You would think the air would have to pass the turbo fan to move it.
The engine would block the outlet of the turbo,,,
air in,, no air out??

anyways,, I never trailer,, 100% of use is on my property,, or right next door at the daughters,,,