Fixing a junky plow.

[N80]

A while back my B-I-L told me there was an old plow in his junk pile. Sure enough, there was a modren (as in not one of the good old ones) plow like you might find at TSC. It was rusty but still functional. Both hitch pins were bent to heck indicating hard use in the past.

Anyway, I've used this thing for about a year and thought I was just a dope because it took me a long time to get it set up properly each time I plowed. But, I did get decent results.

Well, a month or so ago I got to looking at this thing more critically after reading a comment by FWJ about bent plows. And sure enough, one of the frogs is not only bent outward a bit, but it is al twisted. The twist is minor but the bend does cause the plow point to turn outwards some.

I don't know if this was there from the start or if I bent it myself.

Anyway, after a week of the penetrant on the rusty bolts, I finally got it apart. I banged on that frog for 30 minutes with a hand held sledge (my most sophisticated and only metal working tool) and as far as I can tell did more damage to the sledge hammer than the frog.

I showed it to my B-I-L and he said he could heat it up and work on it but that it probably wasn't worth the price of the acetyline (or whatever), which to me means he doesn't want to fool with it...which is fine.

So, is there a way to fix this thing that is worth the expense since this plow isn't so great to begin with? I did contact the maker....they no longer make plows, no longer stock parts although the shares, shins and moldboards are "Ford type".

 

[N80]

Here is a picture of it. The bent frog is the one on the right. You can't see much of an effect but the tip of that share does point a little too far to the right. You can also see that it is a pretty generic plow and otherwise not in terrible shape.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

If it uses Ford wear parts, the frog SHOULD be the same as a Ford frog. Many folks will pull a third (or even forth) bottom off a bigger plow to make a 2-bottom. I'd suggest running an add (over on YT for example) searching for a used Ford frog. Doubtful the wear parts are bent.

Also, try Leinbach. Their plows use Ford spec parts. (actually an old Pittsburg plow design, many of which were built by Oliver/White under contract for Ford) You IGHT be able to et a frog through Leinbach.

Before attempting that, I'd disassemble BOTh existing bottoms and determine if the shanks are still on the same plane and one ISN'T twisted.

 

[N80]

Also, try Leinbach. Their plows use Ford spec parts.

The Leinbach does look very similar all the way around. So that's a good idea. I've talked with them about other things and they are very helpful.

Before attempting that, I'd disassemble BOTh existing bottoms and determine if the shanks are still on the same plane and one ISN'T twisted.

You lost me there. Which part is the shank?

 

[schmism]

You lost me there. Which part is the shank?

I think, its the part that is vertical (as seen looking down the back of the tractor) and attached with 2 bolts see in the pic above (as slanted toward the front of the tractor). what all the wear-surface parts bolt to.

much more likely that that plane ol hunk of steel is bent than the hardened wear surfaces. Generally the wear surfaces will shatter if you hit a hard rock or something with a tip. (or you bend a shank)

 

[N80]

Oh, I thought that was the frog. Probably got my terms mixed up, but that is the part that is bent. It must be 3/4 of an inch thick. The wear surfaces look quite good. I have hit quite a few rocks and have popped the shear pins on a stump or two. One stump stopped me cold. So I may have damaged it myself, but like I said, the hitch pins, and their attachment points were bent all to heck before I ever used it so someone, probably with a bigger tractor than mine, had already given it a pretty hard time.

I wonder how much a welding shop would charge to heat it up and hammer the bend out of it? Would that weaken it a lot?

 

[Diamondpilot]

If it will come off completely take it to a shop with a press and have it straightened. I would not heat it unless it the last resort. I have a KK plow that looks very similar also.

Mine is similar to this one but mine has not bolts except for the trip and shear pin. It actually looks just like yours except the angled piece on the 3 point assembly is welded where yours is bolted.
http://www.kingkutter.com/WholeGood.asp?item=Plows

Chris

 

[N80]

If it will come off completely take it to a shop with a press and have it straightened.

Where would you find something like that? Body shop maybe?

 

[schmism]

no body shop is unlikely to have a press.....

likely a machine shop. or welding shop. Your local whatever farm/tractor dealer that does service is likely to have a HUGE press... might talk to one of the techs in the back about it. (guy at the desk is unlikly to have a clue what your talking about)

 

[Farmwithjunk]

The Leinbach does look very similar all the way around. So that's a good idea. I've talked with them about other things and they are very helpful.



You lost me there. Which part is the shank?

The shank is leg portion of the frame. The part that swings back when the shear bolt does it's thing.....

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Oh, I thought that was the frog. Probably got my terms mixed up, but that is the part that is bent. It must be 3/4 of an inch thick. The wear surfaces look quite good. I have hit quite a few rocks and have popped the shear pins on a stump or two. One stump stopped me cold. So I may have damaged it myself, but like I said, the hitch pins, and their attachment points were bent all to heck before I ever used it so someone, probably with a bigger tractor than mine, had already given it a pretty hard time.

I wonder how much a welding shop would charge to heat it up and hammer the bend out of it? Would that weaken it a lot?

The frog is the piece of iron that all the wear parts bolt to that gives the bottom it's form. It attaches to the shank. The moldboard, shin, share, and landslide all attach to the frog.

As far as where to check for bending, I'd be more inclined to believe the portion of the frame that captures the shank would twist before the shank itself.

 

[N80]

As I suspected, I've got my terms all wrong. The shank is what is bent. The actual frog looks fine. It also looks a lot easier to fix if it were bent. This shank is a hefty chunk o steel. Thanks to you guys for helping me with the terms. I think the problem I would run into with getting the part from KK or Leinback would be the bolt pattern on the upper end of the shank. The bolt pattern on the plow end is probably the same but there may be some variation on the frame end.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Where would you find something like that? Body shop maybe?

Welding shop is what I was thinking. We have a guy here that has a 2 story press that could bend a 24" I beam into a "U" if you wanted it. The press probably has a 6' stroke. I had a bent reese hitch straightened like new with it.


Chris

 

[N80]

There is a welding shop near me. They fixed a crack in a weld in my bucket for cheap. I may see what they can do.

I do not want to spend much money on this because I'd prefer to buy a good old plow.

 

[gemini5362]

The shank is leg portion of the frame. The part that swings back when the shear bolt does it's thing.....

I am going to go out on a limb here since this is a tractor forum but your local tractor service center might even have a press.

 

[N80]

I am going to go out on a limb here since this is a tractor forum but your local tractor service center might even have a press.

I've been in their shop a few times. Its pretty small. I don't recall seeing a press of any size but I might have missed it.

The JD place nearby (which I like) has a huge shop....so big it seems intimidating to me. But, it never hurts to ask I guess.

 

[gemini5362]

I've been in their shop a few times. Its pretty small. I don't recall seeing a press of any size but I might have missed it.

The JD place nearby (which I like) has a huge shop....so big it seems intimidating to me. But, it never hurts to ask I guess.

I could not imagine trying to run a tractor repair shop without a press. by the very nature of their product they have to straighten things that get bent. They also have to press out bearings and races etc. Presses are getting a lot cheaper than they used to be Harbor freight sells a 20 ton pretty reasonable. I believe I gave somewhere around 300.00 for my 30 ton press. If your favorite shop does not have one then probably the JD will have. You might get some estimates. A local machine shop might do the job for you cheaper.

 

[N80]

The problem may be what kind of press we're talking about. I just assumed a typical shop press would be too small for this sort of thing. I'm sure the Kubota shop has a press for bearings and such, but in my imagination I was picturing something more....industrial. Even my brother-in-law has a good sized press in his shop. No idea what the rating is, but its a good 6-8 feet tall, 'I' beam frame and all that.

How much press would you need to straighten something like this? I initially said it was 3/4 inch thick and I tend to overestimate everything, but in reality I bet it is at least an inch thick.

Come to think of it, it wouldn't take much for a machine shop to make something like this. If the stock was the right thickness, all it would require is a few holes drilled.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I am in the process of adapting my log splitter into a press. My splitter is one I built and has a fixed plate on the end of the beam. The wedge is connected to the piston via a pin and the whole thing slides in a track. All I have to do is build a piece to replace the wedge for the press. Then when I need to use it as a press simply pull the pin, remove the splitting wedge, and insert the press adapter.

Chris

 

[nate_m]

I am in the process of adapting my log splitter into a press. My splitter is one I built and has a fixed plate on the end of the beam. The wedge is connected to the piston via a pin and the whole thing slides in a track. All I have to do is build a piece to replace the wedge for the press. Then when I need to use it as a press simply pull the pin, remove the splitting wedge, and insert the press adapter.

Chris

I too have found that a log-splitter makes an excellent press. One additional point to add, though, is that the high flow-rate of the hydraulics can make it difficult for precision work. I would add a flow regulator or restricter orifice to slow things down a bit.