Fixing an Old Barn

[jfh28]

getting back to your original question.......examine the structure.......probe the posts, beams and rafters for rot, sag and level........then do an exploratory to see what kind of foundation you have.......if there isn't one and it's just posts in the ground then it's not worth putting any money into........if you have a good foundation and a good structure then it could be worth saving......if you don't it will just be a money pit..........Jack

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

No foundation, just dirt.

Seems like most folks think it's a tear down.

 

[jfh28]

yeah unfortunately if its just sitting on dirt it's not worth putting any money into it......eventually the posts will start to rot out or be attacked by termites if that hasn't started already......it will lean and then gravity will do the rest.......I'd look at it as a limited life structure.......no reason you couldn't clean it out now and use it as a place to do maintenance on equipment or store materials out of the weather while you build a new structure.......Jack

 

[EddieWalker]

Time is money. How long will it take to go through the old barn, remove the bad stuff and replace it with good lumber? Just one rafter or joist can take hours, if not the whole day to replace and do it right. How long to replace and install just one new post?

You can rent an excavator and have it all down and the site cleared in a day. If you get one with a blade, you can probably smooth of the dirt and be ready to build in that same day.

If you hire it out, a crew should be able to built you a new barn in three days. It would really have to be big, or have some special features for it to take them longer.

Most people with basic skills can build a pole barn building in 4 weekends if they are working on it seriously.

 

[jmc]

I can smell mildew when I look at those pictures. If so, that might remain after a rebuild.

Your dream barn is very nice. I like the way they made their own flat spot and created an interesting retaining wall in the process.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

.....
Your dream barn is very nice. I like the way they made their own flat spot and created an interesting retaining wall in the process.

I'll have to do something similar on my hilly property. Agree it was an attractive solution. It was nice to see an advertisement of a barn set into a hill like that. They mostly seem to photograph them on flat land.

 

[Norm W]

Around here most barns are built into a hill. That allows access to the second floor without having to build a ramp. The first floor is for the live stock. The second floor is for weather sensitive equipment like a baler. The rest of the second floor is hay storage along with the loft. The first floor is stone or blocks till it gets above ground level on the hill side. That is probably more work than you want.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

Around here most barns are built into a hill. That allows access to the second floor without having to build a ramp. The first floor is for the live stock. The second floor is for weather sensitive equipment like a baler. The rest of the second floor is hay storage along with the loft. The first floor is stone or blocks till it gets above ground level on the hill side. That is probably more work than you want.

Sure, most actual barns around here are on hills too. I meant when you're shopping for a barn design online, they usually show them on flat ground, which makes it hard to picture it on my land.

Thought about the 2-level. We have the slope for it. Insurance is cheaper if you store hay separately in a metal building. Plus with my allergies..... 'Course I COULD use a second story to store the tractor, plus use it as a workshop. But I think I'm going to opt for smaller, single-purpose, charming structures because it will look much better on this particular property, which is kinda tucked into a heavily wooded mountainside. If I had majestic sweeping open fields I'd do one huge building, for sure. Would be magnificent. Here it would overwhelm. I think it helps to consider the "scale" of the landscape in order to make things look nice.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

I think the existing barn is nice.

And many things can stay outside of the barn, but a tractor ain't one of them.

I can't believe you would want to tear it down. That's more covered storage than $30k will buy.

I have yet to see a farm that has to store hay in a different building. What kind of yuppie insurance agency is that?

 

[BoylermanCT]

If you've got the money, go ahead and tear them down and start over. Everyone likes the new barn smell! But if funds are limited, I would put them into the horse barn, and fix up the tractor shed so it is stable and weather proof. You can build a new tractor shed when you have the money.

I have a barn that was built in the early 1800's from chestnut wood. Held together with wooden pegs. I am working on getting it suitable for horses. Have replaced the siding on 2 sides, with one side left to go (one side is good, and did not need replacing). I find old single pane windows on Craigslist and add them to the barn as I redo each section. The nice thing about working on a barn is it is a barn - if things are not plumb, or you make a mistake, the horses won't notice! I use it to learn new skills and gain building experience. One of my first things was to paint it red with white trim. Makes me want to keep it up and in good shape, and I figure the paint strengthens the building! If it has not fallen down in 150 years, it will most likely last for my purposes!

 

[BoylermanCT]

I have yet to see a farm that has to store hay in a different building. What kind of yuppie insurance agency is that?

CT has the same requirements. Old barns are grandfathered in to allow 2nd story hay storage, but new construction does not allow hay storage in the same barn that animals are kept in. Too many barns have burned down due to wet hay being baled. When the bales dries, it creates heat, and in certain conditions the hay can combust and burn down the barn, killing the animals in the process.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

CT has the same requirements. Old barns are grandfathered in to allow 2nd story hay storage, but new construction does not allow hay storage in the same barn that animals are kept in. Too many barns have burned down due to wet hay being baled. When the bales dries, it creates heat, and in certain conditions the hay can combust and burn down the barn, killing the animals in the process.

Thats govt over reach.

 

[MossRoad]

Thats govt over reach.

It's probably driven by insurance companies and due to so many fires caused by putting up wet hay. It has nothing to do with yuppies. It's common sense.

 

[MossRoad]

 

[buckeyefarmer]

That was 2 separate posts. Yuppies referenced a differentcpost about ins co requirement.

Over reach, referenced the ct post which indicated it was a state issue, not ins.

I believe it is a stupid rule, law or whatever. Lets bubble wrap everyone in case they fall down.

Sorry op for the detour in your thread, carry on....

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

I have a barn that was built in the early 1800's from chestnut wood. Held together with wooden pegs. I am working on getting it suitable for horses.

If this barn was like yours, I'd be lovingly restoring it too, regardless of cost.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

Over reach, referenced the ct post which indicated it was a state issue, not ins.

I believe it is a stupid rule, law or whatever. Lets bubble wrap everyone in case they fall down.

Nothing to do with gov't. It's business. Insurance companies wanting to reduce their losses.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

Nothing to do with gov't. It's business. Insurance companies wanting to reduce their losses.

Good luck with whatever barn you decide to go with. And the spiders will be in the new barn before it's done being built, lol.

 

[Larry Caldwell]

No foundation, just dirt.

Seems like most folks think it's a tear down.

On dirt is not a big deal. Prop some stiffleg braces up to carry the weight, cut the post off above the rot line, nail a post base anchor to the bottom of the post, and pour concrete around the anchor. Chances are you can just use 2' diameter sonotube and not even bother with a footing. Nail 2x4 sleepers to the roof and screw sheet metal roofing down to the sleepers. Add a few internal braces if necessary. It will be good for another 20 or 30 years.