638
Platinum Member
Kinda looks to me like what you are calling 'ooze' is just the flux from the new weld??
ron
ron
Fixing Cracks in a Backhoe - Big ! with pics
- Thread starter john_bud
- Start date
- Views: 45931
John,looks like you got one plate on top of another plate and what ever is filling up the gap is causing you this,,??its just what you get sometimes when welding on #1,material you are not sure of,,,,#2,filler metal that lord only knows what they used,,#3,yeah,,hard to tell whats in that gap,[if it is an air gap between plates],junk,,,,in other words,,,
you wouldn't be having near the problem your having if you was using stick or fluxcore to try and patch this thing up,,once again,,mig is good for thinner material,,and clean material,,,not saying you can weld over dirt and rust with stick or fluxcore,just saying mig is wrong choice for the job your doing.
You might actually be burning to hot now with the .035 wire,,,mig has slag on it to,lotta people don't know this,,its a silicon,[glass] type slag,,don't think that causing your problem in this case,just thought I'd throw that in,,you need to brush,[power] between passes with mig,,or it just increases cold lap/lack a fusion problems.
Just keep johning around with it and you'll get her to hold shelled corn before your done,[at least I'm betting],,,thingy
you wouldn't be having near the problem your having if you was using stick or fluxcore to try and patch this thing up,,once again,,mig is good for thinner material,,and clean material,,,not saying you can weld over dirt and rust with stick or fluxcore,just saying mig is wrong choice for the job your doing.
You might actually be burning to hot now with the .035 wire,,,mig has slag on it to,lotta people don't know this,,its a silicon,[glass] type slag,,don't think that causing your problem in this case,just thought I'd throw that in,,you need to brush,[power] between passes with mig,,or it just increases cold lap/lack a fusion problems.
Just keep johning around with it and you'll get her to hold shelled corn before your done,[at least I'm betting],,,thingy
638 said:
Ron, No, I don't think so. These aren't bad. I've had some where the flux was entirely covering the weld. There isn't any new flux as it's solid 0.035" wire.
Thingy, I do wire brush between passes. On clean stuff, there is almost no surface anything on the welds, even without brushing. Yeah, some silicon, but not much. This thing is a challange! Fer sure!
I agree, it is too hot. But, that is getting it down to a pure metal interface after I'm done with it. I did a few grind backs on ones that I did that looked good. No voids, no brown stuff, no ooze.
Schmism,
Ah TIG. Yeah, that would be a better way to go. Less spatter and more easily controlled heat. If only I had one. .... and the skill to use it properly.
I tried heating it up to burn out the flux, but I don't have the "touch" needed to hold the metal at a near liquid state long enough to get the contaminates out and not make a big spat on the floor. And a hole in the bucket. Besides, this is combining my two favorite things, brute force and ignorance.
Oh well, it's almost done now. It isn't pretty, but it will be functional and strong. Or at least stronger than it was! Hopefully, that's strong enough.
jb
dbdartman
Platinum Member
John, the "glass like" hard stuff I'm seeing in the last set of pics looks like normal left-overs from a hot MIG weld to me. It is especially prevelant on the stop puddle of a MIG weld & I think it's from the gas. In any event, in my 25+ years of welding I've seen it more often than not. I'm not saying you're NOT getting a SMALL amount of slag from left-over stick welds, but those last pics I saw are pretty typical of MIG welds I've seen & made myself on both old & new material. The higher the heat, the more "glass slag" left behind has been my experience, including a short stint (4 or 5 months) making trailer frames for U-Haul, running the 300 amp MIG AT 300 amps! BTW, at 300 amps, leathers are MANDATORY unless you like burned arms & belly. 
If it was me doing this repair, I'd have chosen stick over MIG, & I HATE stick welding (TIG is my forte). I was taught by an old welder where I worked back in the later 70's. After 3 weeks of TRYING to teach me to stick weld, in complete frustration (I just couldn't do it) he broke out the TIG set up. Within 15 minutes I was laying down welds as nice as his. After 2 lessons, I was out at a customer's shop (with the teacher) doing a big stainless job. This customer offered both of us jobs. My teacher declined, but they were offering me nearly $100/week more than I was making, so I jumped on it. That led to 5 years of TIG welding stainless almost exclusively, then 13 years doing all kinds of fab work but specializing in drag race chassis, suspension, & roll cage work. Now I play around the house with a little 110v Lincoln MIG.
If it was me doing this repair, I'd have chosen stick over MIG, & I HATE stick welding (TIG is my forte). I was taught by an old welder where I worked back in the later 70's. After 3 weeks of TRYING to teach me to stick weld, in complete frustration (I just couldn't do it) he broke out the TIG set up. Within 15 minutes I was laying down welds as nice as his. After 2 lessons, I was out at a customer's shop (with the teacher) doing a big stainless job. This customer offered both of us jobs. My teacher declined, but they were offering me nearly $100/week more than I was making, so I jumped on it. That led to 5 years of TIG welding stainless almost exclusively, then 13 years doing all kinds of fab work but specializing in drag race chassis, suspension, & roll cage work. Now I play around the house with a little 110v Lincoln MIG.
Ehhhh, maybe. But I don't see it welding on places with good metal only on places with voids and goobers in the old welds. I can actually chip it and break it when it forms thickly. This was all pretty thin, but I did the bad stuff without taking any pictures. (Darn those special lithium camera batteries!)
So, is that a '67 dart? A buddy of mine is into A body barracudas. '67 Convertible 270 commando formula S with 4 speeds and automatics. But he also has 340 4v and 340 6 packs. All original and running nice.
I'm more of a Mercury guy with latent Ford tendencies. '68 Cougar big block, '73 Cougar convertible and a '77 mustang II 302 (hey, it was my HS car!)
jb
So, is that a '67 dart? A buddy of mine is into A body barracudas. '67 Convertible 270 commando formula S with 4 speeds and automatics. But he also has 340 4v and 340 6 packs. All original and running nice.
I'm more of a Mercury guy with latent Ford tendencies. '68 Cougar big block, '73 Cougar convertible and a '77 mustang II 302 (hey, it was my HS car!)
jb
dbdartman
Platinum Member
I'm actually a reformed Ford dude... Although I'd sell the Dart in a heart beat for a good 67-68 Cougar!
That's actually a '68, the last Dart 2dr sedan. Has a mild (around 350 HP) 360, A-518 (4 spd OD auto) trans, & 3.91 gears out back. It's the chassis & suspension system I went crazy on. Using almost exclusively Mopar parts (but few Dart parts) it handles like a slot car, but if I want a decent ride I'll drive my truck.
My brother has a couple fun Mopars too: 340 powered '68 Barracuda fast back & a 550 HP (on the engine dyno) 69 Coronet 500 station wagon with power steering, hydra-boost power brakes & A/C. The wagon is silly-fast for a 4500+lb tank!
Yea, I could talk cars (& skydiving) all day if you let me...
Anyway, back to the welds. Like I said, the last set of pics you posted show a rather typical phenomena, so I wouldn't be concerned about THAT weld, but it does sound like you're having flux intrusion in other spots. From the sounds of it, you're doing all you can in that situation (I've been following this since the beginning), & the needle scaler should be of some help (if it ever arrives!).
Best of luck with the job!
Although I'd sell the Dart in a heart beat for a good 67-68 Cougar! That's actually a '68, the last Dart 2dr sedan. Has a mild (around 350 HP) 360, A-518 (4 spd OD auto) trans, & 3.91 gears out back. It's the chassis & suspension system I went crazy on. Using almost exclusively Mopar parts (but few Dart parts) it handles like a slot car, but if I want a decent ride I'll drive my truck.
My brother has a couple fun Mopars too: 340 powered '68 Barracuda fast back & a 550 HP (on the engine dyno) 69 Coronet 500 station wagon with power steering, hydra-boost power brakes & A/C. The wagon is silly-fast for a 4500+lb tank!
Yea, I could talk cars (& skydiving) all day if you let me...
Anyway, back to the welds. Like I said, the last set of pics you posted show a rather typical phenomena, so I wouldn't be concerned about THAT weld, but it does sound like you're having flux intrusion in other spots. From the sounds of it, you're doing all you can in that situation (I've been following this since the beginning), & the needle scaler should be of some help (if it ever arrives!).
Best of luck with the job!
Attachments
I'm a little concerned about the scaler ever showing up. It has been showing as at the FedEx place in LA since the 18th with no movement. Scheduled delivery tomorrow. They won't lift a finger till it's actually late. (Great customer "service").
I've got to call the machine shop too. They are about due to be done. Haven't been a squeaky wheel - hope I don't have to be.
Not that I want your Dart (nice as it is), but my 53,000 original mile '68 cougar with factory 427 side oiler is considered by some to be "good". It needs a resto. Once I clear the plate of tractor stuff, it will be time. I rebuilt the engine with Arias pistons at 10.25:1, balanced to 1/4 gram, 3 angle valve grind. Several cams until I got the one in it that I liked the best, an Engle IIRC. Gasket matched porting on the head and intake. CJ exhaust manifolds, used to be Hooker Super Comps. I have done all the work myself except for machine shop work on the crank, block etc. Did the 3 angle valve grind on a buddies Sioux machine.
I was missing the original Holley, but found one with correct numbers at a car show in Iola WI for $150. It was within 20 minutes of buying a correct numbers 428 CJ Holley that had been rebuilt professionally. That one wasn't too bad ~$300. So leaving the show a guy sees my shirt that says '68 Cougar and tells me that he is moving and has a parted out cougar. I can have all of it for $100. Interior, dash, seats, wiring harness, grill, lights, trim, radio, head lights, tail lights. Took 2 8' box trucks to haul it all off. Never been to a show like that since!
I did see a guy with a bunch of Chevy BB parts and one Ford 406 tri-power manifold with correct carbs and linkages. Last day of that show. He also saw my lucky shirt and wanted me to buy the manifold. 1/2 off of the $600 sticker. Couldn't do it, no mo money. Wasn't real interested in it at the time. I had the aluminum 4V intake and a Ford low rise 2-4v, both came with the '68 cougar. Would like to have that deal now...
jb
I've got to call the machine shop too. They are about due to be done. Haven't been a squeaky wheel - hope I don't have to be.
Not that I want your Dart (nice as it is), but my 53,000 original mile '68 cougar with factory 427 side oiler is considered by some to be "good". It needs a resto. Once I clear the plate of tractor stuff, it will be time. I rebuilt the engine with Arias pistons at 10.25:1, balanced to 1/4 gram, 3 angle valve grind. Several cams until I got the one in it that I liked the best, an Engle IIRC. Gasket matched porting on the head and intake. CJ exhaust manifolds, used to be Hooker Super Comps. I have done all the work myself except for machine shop work on the crank, block etc. Did the 3 angle valve grind on a buddies Sioux machine.
I was missing the original Holley, but found one with correct numbers at a car show in Iola WI for $150. It was within 20 minutes of buying a correct numbers 428 CJ Holley that had been rebuilt professionally. That one wasn't too bad ~$300. So leaving the show a guy sees my shirt that says '68 Cougar and tells me that he is moving and has a parted out cougar. I can have all of it for $100. Interior, dash, seats, wiring harness, grill, lights, trim, radio, head lights, tail lights. Took 2 8' box trucks to haul it all off. Never been to a show like that since!
I did see a guy with a bunch of Chevy BB parts and one Ford 406 tri-power manifold with correct carbs and linkages. Last day of that show. He also saw my lucky shirt and wanted me to buy the manifold. 1/2 off of the $600 sticker. Couldn't do it, no mo money. Wasn't real interested in it at the time. I had the aluminum 4V intake and a Ford low rise 2-4v, both came with the '68 cougar. Would like to have that deal now...
jb
dbdartman
Platinum Member
john_bud said:
Just for the record... I HATE you.
dbdartman said:Just for the record... I HATE you.
Hey, don't hate me! I had to pay $6,000 for the car back in '87. But it did come with an extra crank, rods, 2 extra sets of 427 pistons, the 2-4v was on it and the factory aluminum 4v was in a box.
In fact, I had to take out a cash advance on the CC to pay for it. Ewwww, the CFO not real pleased about that. Then, about 4 months later there was a '69 talladaga 428 Super CJ, 4 speed for sale. Not a scratch on it. Perfect paint and under 40,000 miles. That was listed for $4000. I (sob!!) passed on it. (was just finishing up paying for the CC reaming) There was also a '69 raven black mach1 428CJ 4 sp with (double sob!!) 12,000 original miles on it that was advertised for $8000 for months. I think it sold when it dropped down to $6000.
But the best car I never bought award goes to the 1974 pantera with 4000 miles that was advertised in 1980. It still had that "new car smell". It was listed for $15,000. Way spendy! Ahh, to have had money and brains back then. Too bad I had neither.
Then again, my Mopar buddy was offered a 427 AC Cobra for 2 grand when he got back from 'nam. He drove it and complained about the horrible rattles and the motor smoked. It could have been new in the box and he wouldn't have bought it -- die hard Mopar. He bought a new '72 cuda 340 six pack 4 sp. He sold it after a few years to make room for the kid-lets. And people wonder why their parents give them goofy looks some times.
jb
