Fixing Cracks in a Backhoe - Big ! with pics

   / Fixing Cracks in a Backhoe - Big ! with pics #81  
Despite of my previous teasing I agree with Thingy - preheat, weld completely with 7018, cover with some fiberglass insulation to cool slowly. The bucket is small enough to do all welds on the flat. One thing you must be careful of is mixing XX10/XX11 rod with XX18 on the same weld. My aging memory recalls you don't ever place fast freeze 10/11 rod over slow freeze 18 rod. Or do I have that backwards??? Anyway the difference in freezing rates can cause cracking. This can be easily missed when old welds are not completely removed. MikeD74T
 
   / Fixing Cracks in a Backhoe - Big ! with pics
  • Thread Starter
#82  
Thanks for the input guys!

I called around and got some advice. A little contradictory. Probably is what works for the individuals. Common thread is pre-heat and post weld heat. Pre-heat to at least 100 degrees for every 0.1% of Carbon in the steel. From the grinding spark test, it looks like the blade is .2-.4% carbon. Low alloy steel. That means it will be easier to weld. Adding the tooth shank, you have to pre-heat the shank A LOT. It is a big heat sink, far more than the blade. But the blade needs heat too. Also, for this type of steel, over heating by several hundred degrees is ok. Freshly opened 7018 low hydrogen rods should be the best. For critical work, only fresh rods or oven stored rods.

That's my understanding of what I was told.

I read the text books too. They support the advice given and from people here too. 7018 low hydrogen rod and lots of pre-heat.

Thingy, The MIG wire is 0.035 solid 70S. The welder has a max output of 250 amps, 26 V and 30% duty cycle at that level. Should I stick with the MIG and 70S or drag the bucket to the neighbors house and use his stick welder with new 7018 rod?

jb
 
   / Fixing Cracks in a Backhoe - Big ! with pics #83  
Preheat and postheat will be easy; make the thing a barbeque for the day. Build a small charcoal bbq fire in the bucket, drag the coals over to where you want the heat, let them do the work, then push them out of the way for the welding. once the weld is down, pull them back over it and let them burn out on their own.
whodat
 
   / Fixing Cracks in a Backhoe - Big ! with pics #84  
John,,you'll just have to decide that,,,I mean you welded the whole busted up boom with the mig,,,like I said,,I woulda done the whole thing[if I coulda],with stick,,,but you gotta work with what you got. It just depends if you think you can,,,,preheating and slow cooling is the key here,[along with many other things you weld,],,I mean the bucket is not as critical,,as the boom,,right,,to my way of thinking anyways.. Also,you seem to be doing pretty good with that mig,near as I can see anyways,,,stick welding is a whole nother skill set,,,What I'm saying is,,probably better to have a pretty desent mig weld on something,than a crappy stick weld.
This is one reason I tell people who are looking to buy a welding machine,,get a good dc stick welder,,if you gotta just have one,,stick is it.
The mig with 70s has same tensile as 7018,,and,,mig is considered low hydrogen too,,,far as heat well,,you don't want to adjust it to where its cold,don't know where you been running,,120 amps 19 volts comes to mind for .035 wire,,,that was for pipe,,,you should maybe try and get it up a little more than that...
Another thought for you would be flux core wire,,you got the machine,,,not up to date on all the new things with flux core,,,but you got duel shield and inner shield types of wire,,,one requires gas the other doesn't,,most people say the duel shield is smoother and easier to weld with,,might need to get another gun and different wire rollers,,,welding supply place oughta be able to fix you up,,,but flux core is better for what your doing,,than mig,,,,thingy

Mike,me and you is agreeing now,,,guess its time for me to shut up??!! thingy
 
   / Fixing Cracks in a Backhoe - Big ! with pics #85  
Thingy, I am not at all up on flux core wire types such as some of the ones you have mentioned for the mig, are they available in flux core also? I would like to try welding some cast.
 
   / Fixing Cracks in a Backhoe - Big ! with pics #86  
Cast iron? sure they got something,but I couldn't tell you what numbers it would be,but they make all kinds of wire for flux core,not sure about cast iron though,, You might be limited in wire size and having to buy a big spool if buying an alloy of some kind,,,,A good welding supply place should be able to order any wire they make,,as well as tell you what all else you might need,,some wire is made to have extra shielding,[duel shield] from argon mix for welding stainless,to co2 for steel or a mix.
So,you would need to know what your welding and go to supply place and see what all they got.
 
   / Fixing Cracks in a Backhoe - Big ! with pics #87  
thingy said:
Mike,me and you is agreeing now,,,guess its time for me to shut up??!! thingy

thingy, Actually I don't believe either Dargo or myself disagreed with the technical aspects of anything you've said. We disagreed with the concept that there is only one way to do anything.
My point was some weld downhill because they can do either & have a reason to weld down. Others weld down because they can't weld up. You can apparently do both and apppreciate the difference. In order to be successful welding down knowledge of the difference is crucial for quality work. Understanding the difference was what the older welder instilled in me. I still cannot weld up & down equally, but I know what to look for & can see when it's going wrong.
I was trying to keep johnbud from falling into the trap of doing something that seems easier without understanding the consequenses. He could have put in a lot of time doing welds that look good but have poor strength. I'm not a real fan of mig, especially the smaller DIY machines, because it seems to allow one to lay down good beads that aren't attached to anything, which is not to say that a good mig weld is any less than a good stick weld.
MikeD74T
BTW, I also agree with your comments on certification. My only certification is in downhand MIG on 1/8" mild steel sheet stock 90 degree seam welds, which I surely claim no expertize in.

connomx is my home logon -MikeD74T
 
   / Fixing Cracks in a Backhoe - Big ! with pics #88  
Mike,again,we agree,,[well].Concept,huh? one thing though,,you don't seem to believe that you can put a good a weld down as up?,,and we don't need to argue that,but maybe you want too,so,,, all I said was through experience. I've passed downhill tests on 6-8 sch 40 pipe in postion,[at 45 degrees],,open root,WITH MIG,that had 4 sections cut out for root and face bends and some for nick break and some for tensile,,all bent 180 degrees in weld,,the tensile pulls beat the pipe,[broke outside weld],,I know you may not have any experience in this,,but,I do.
Of course you can up hill mig,,I meant,and still do,,if you are mig welding it works better down hill,,kinda like taking a leak out side on a windy day,,you can piss into wind if you want,,but the only way is not too.
I've already wrote at least 4-5 times that mig is not my first or second choice for doing something like this,,,mig is for thinner stuff,,you add that to the fact that most backyard type welders don't have the skill and or experience to compensate for its problematic characteristics,[cold lap,lack of fusion]..making a good up hill multipass weld ain't easy with mig,,making a good multipass weld downhill ain't easy with mig either,,but it works better down for most,,but your right,if you don't know what your doing with mig,[or any other process],you make bad welds,guess I was talking about somebody who did know what they was doing..
And,I am an older welder too,been involved in it as a living for about 31 years now,so guess that would qualify me as "an older welder",,not that being older makes you smarter,have learned that,just makes you have more experience,,and stick with what I said about your older welder,,he might be a very good welder,,but on this up/down thing,he didn't know what he was talking about,,which is,for an older welder,,is not good,,he should have at least known that pipelines are welded down hill,and they are very critical welds,,he didn't have to know all the tricks to doing it,he should have at least been aware,,no need repeating myself,I already explained this back in a previous post.
In other words mike,you have some good basic welding knowledge,but welding is so broad that nobody can become an expert in every part of it,,thats where experience comes into it,,some guys work all their lives in a bridge shop,some all their lives in a power plant,some in areospace,,some in chemicl plants,some on pipelines,,and thats all they know,,some just weld with stick,some with mig some with flux core,some with tig,some with subarc,,and the lists go on,,,,you can be the very best at one of those in one of those areas,and be right down at the bottom in another,,,,,I am not an expert either,but I have worked in all the above. thingy
 
   / Fixing Cracks in a Backhoe - Big ! with pics #89  
john_bud said:
Also, anyone have a source for CHEAP weld on shanks and teeth?

Thanks!
jb

Have you looked at this site? Cheap Bucket Teeth
I've bought stuff a couple of times there and was happy with the results
 
   / Fixing Cracks in a Backhoe - Big ! with pics #90  
Well,got to rereading my last post,and will admitt it was a little lengthy,,,,,could probably a said it like this,,,there is no need in argueing a point with somebody who is conviced they are right and think they know more than they do and are not willing to learn.
You can make bad uphill welds just like you can make bad downhill welds,if you don't know what you're doing.
If one is better at up,than down,than by all means they should weld up.
An up hill weld is not in anyway better than a down hill weld,and visa versa,,its all about the guy doing it,,has nothing to do with that melted puddle of steel.
There,thats a little shorter,,,thingy
 

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