FLAIL Mower ID

[rco]

Ok, I have to ask, since I've recently acquired a 60" flail mower that is made by ?Agri-Tech? that is in similar shape. Well, actually it's not in as good of shape. I've been doing some welding on the body since mine apparently WAS used to replace a bush-hog. It has tears in the metal where there weren't even seems. Anyway, I'm needing to replace the bearings, and I wanted to ask, what is the best way to try balancing the drum if I make it that far, so that the thing doesn't rip itself apart from vibration?

I'm really not trying to hijack the thread, I just figure you are going to have to do the same thing and I would like to find out how you are going to go about it.

 

[LD1]

Ok, I have to ask, since I've recently acquired a 60" flail mower that is made by ?Agri-Tech? that is in similar shape. Well, actually it's not in as good of shape. I've been doing some welding on the body since mine apparently WAS used to replace a bush-hog. It has tears in the metal where there weren't even seems. Anyway, I'm needing to replace the bearings, and I wanted to ask, what is the best way to try balancing the drum if I make it that far, so that the thing doesn't rip itself apart from vibration?

I'm really not trying to hijack the thread, I just figure you are going to have to do the same thing and I would like to find out how you are going to go about it.

If you are refering to the cutter bar that has all the knives and stuff attached....well I dont think they are balanced.

They probabally are to a degree when they are designed, with the placement of the knife hangers and stuff, but if the shaft isnt bent, and you arent missing any knives/hangers, then I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[leonz]

Ok, I have to ask, since I've recently acquired a 60" flail mower that is made by ?Agri-Tech? that is in similar shape. Well, actually it's not in as good of shape. I've been doing some welding on the body since mine apparently WAS used to replace a bush-hog. It has tears in the metal where there weren't even seems. Anyway, I'm needing to replace the bearings, and I wanted to ask, what is the best way to try balancing the drum if I make it that far, so that the thing doesn't rip itself apart from vibration?

I'm really not trying to hijack the thread, I just figure you are going to have to do the same thing and I would like to find out how you are going to go about it.

EVERY flail mower rotor is balanced on a dynomometer set up ( I cannot guarantee the chinese made flailmowers are built with balanced rotors!!!!!!, or the other flailmowers offered by Northern Tool being made of a single hollow steel tube) to guarantee true running and avoid any possible chance of an explosion and parts separating from the massive centrifugal forces created by the rotors high speed of rotation while working.

No need to balance the rotor drum if everything is intact-

Meaning:


1. all knive hangers are intact

2. all grass slicer knive(s) paired and single knives attached to the end hangers for mowing overlap are mounted on the knive hangers.

All the knives and all the hangers MUST BE ATTACHED to ensure the rotor is
BALANCED at all times.

If knives are missing the corresponding knive set 180 degrees opposite and its hanger must be removed.

IF you have a 2 or three row knife rotor the corresponding broken knives must removed or replaced to maintain equal centrifugal force at all times.


I have added extensive material describing how to examine a rotor for true running in several posts here for everyone.

 

[LD1]

Another update. I got an e-mail back from montague with a parts diagram:thumbsup:

It DOES appear to be an F6. Identical in every way to the pics they sent me. They even asked how many cutter stations it has, which is 92. The diagram of the F6 they sent confirms it. But they were still no help with the odd sized bearing. O'well, I've got it figured out now with using the 35mm ID 6007 bearing and the bushing.

 

[fluggies4]

I have a theory...I think at one time the cuttershaft and pulley was replaced by one for a Mott72. The pulley for the 72 has an ID of 1-1/8", and the pulley end of the cuttershaft has a shoulder turned on it for this size. The bearings however are the same ID as the F6. Looks like someone had to replace the assembly when they couldn't get the original one for the F6, and then changed the bearing on the pulley side?

 

[LD1]

I have a theory...I think at one time the cuttershaft and pulley was replaced by one for a Mott72. The pulley for the 72 has an ID of 1-1/8", and the pulley end of the cuttershaft has a shoulder turned on it for this size. The bearings however are the same ID as the F6. Looks like someone had to replace the assembly when they couldn't get the original one for the F6, and then changed the bearing on the pulley side?

Not sure I follow you here??

You say that the Mott72 has a pulley of 1.125 right?

But the bearing was STILL the same @ 30mm ID?? Like a stepped shaft that had a 30mm diameter for the bearing and steped down to 1-1/8 for the pulley???

If that is what you are saying, the bearing I took off was NOT 30mm. It had an ID of 28.4mm which is just under the 1-1/8 mark. No stepped shaft.

So unless someone "turned" that shoulder off and found this ODD sized bearing of 28.4mm x 62mm, I dont believe this to be the case. But I could be wrong.

Do you still believe it is a F6 or do you think it is a Mott 72 fine cut like flailmaster says?? I have nothing to compare it to. What is the difference between a F6 and a Mott 72????

 

[leonz]

I agree with fluggie on this part as well- Its also possible the rotor was substituted when it was assembled at the Mott factory in Ohio. Part substitutions happen more than people realise...................... It wont damage the mower for sure.:thumbsup:

 

[fluggies4]

The cuttershaft on the old F6 was straight on both ends, ie. no shoulder on the pulley side, and the OD of the pulleys was 8.5", and the bearings were 30mm ID.
The cuttershaft on the Mott 72 was stepped down on the pulley end...the pulley is 8"OD,
and 1 1/8" ID. The inner part of the shoulder is 30MM. where the bearing goes.

Both top and bottom pulleys should be the same OD, ie. on the F6 they are 8.5", and on the 72 they are 8".

It is definitely a model F6...the hitch, side drive, etc. are identical to the lists, and the 72 does not have the triangular grease covers.

David

 

[LD1]

The cuttershaft on the old F6 was straight on both ends, ie. no shoulder on the pulley side, and the OD of the pulleys was 8.5", and the bearings were 30mm ID.
The cuttershaft on the Mott 72 was stepped down on the pulley end...the pulley is 8"OD,
and 1 1/8" ID. The inner part of the shoulder is 30MM. where the bearing goes.

Both top and bottom pulleys should be the same OD, ie. on the F6 they are 8.5", and on the 72 they are 8".

It is definitely a model F6...the hitch, side drive, etc. are identical to the lists, and the 72 does not have the triangular grease covers.

David

Boy, you have been extremely helpful:thumbsup:

When I get home tonight I will have to measure the pulleys.

Something just isnt makeing any sense here. Because there is NO step to the shaft. It is a straight shaft but it is the 1-1/8 (28.4mm) diameter:confused2:

Maybe at some point in time, someone "turned" that step off and managed to come up with a one-of-a-kind bearing that had a 1-1/8 ID and 62mm OD. I know there are quite a few metric 6200series bearings that DO have the imperial INCH sized inner race. I have seen them at TSC before. Like 203 bearings with a 5/8 ID and 204 bearings with 3/4" ID. I just cannot find a 206 with a 1-1/8 ID:confused2: But I guess someone did somewhere along the line.

Either way, The 6007 with a bushing should work just fine. Its just puzzling the heck out of me, thats all. I will measure the pulleys tonight. I am betting they are 8" and someone turned the step off. If they are 8.5" pulleys, then that will jsut confuse me even more:confused2:

 

[LD1]

The cuttershaft on the old F6 was straight on both ends, ie. no shoulder on the pulley side, and the OD of the pulleys was 8.5", and the bearings were 30mm ID.
The cuttershaft on the Mott 72 was stepped down on the pulley end...the pulley is 8"OD,
and 1 1/8" ID. The inner part of the shoulder is 30MM. where the bearing goes.

Both top and bottom pulleys should be the same OD, ie. on the F6 they are 8.5", and on the 72 they are 8".

It is definitely a model F6...the hitch, side drive, etc. are identical to the lists, and the 72 does not have the triangular grease covers.

David

UPDATE

See if you can splain this to me:laughing:

Both pulleys are 8.5", but it still has the 1-1/8 bore (25.4MM):confused2:

EDIT: I also wanted to ask you (since you have been a great help already), There are two bolts that hold the mower "deck" and cutter bar to the 3PH assembly. These are slotted about 4" to allow the cutter to move closer to the tractor or farther away. Do you know what the purpose of doing this would be? I can see no benefit of a few inches closer or farther from the tires