Flail Mower Flail Mower ID

[mangus580]

Had to see how it worked in the yard tonight... I can clearly see where the missing knifes are! LOL

Now, I want a 48-60" version for my little tractor! The 72" is a little big for smaller lawn mowing.... Although I could settle into it I am sure - just requires more trim work which I hate.


Can anyone explain the proper way I should have it mounted on the 3pt? I see references to replacing the lift links on the 3pt with chains? What can I do to make swapping the mower out with other implements not painful? Do new 3pt hitches not float well enough for the mower to follow the ground right?

 

[leonz]

Had to see how it worked in the yard tonight... I can clearly see where the missing knifes are! LOL

Now, I want a 48-60" version for my little tractor! The 72" is a little big for smaller lawn mowing.... Although I could settle into it I am sure - just requires more trim work which I hate.


Can anyone explain the proper way I should have it mounted on the 3pt? I see references to replacing the lift links on the 3pt with chains? What can I do to make swapping the mower out with other implements not painful? Do new 3pt hitches not float well enough for the mower to follow the ground right?

NO!!! you use the top link and the twin lower links
and be sure to fully retract the rigth lower link if it adjustable.

Many owners simply build a wheeled dolly out of 6 by 6's to set thier mowers on to make mounting and dismounting them easier.


Some folks use chains to better follow the ground contour in some cases
but its not at all necessary.

You simply have to adjust the top link properly to assure the mower does not nose dive when mowing the contour- just be sure to use a torpedo level to make sure it is level from front to back when making the top link adjustment, thats all you need to do after you set the height of cut by adjusting the height of the rear roller which is what regualtes the cutting hieght of the flailmower after you have the top link leveled.



Be sure to change the gear oil as I am sure it has water in it.


The larger mower will save you time onece you become more comfortable with it and
you will see how much better it cuts when you have it properly adjusted.

Please do not run it anymore with the blades missing as that will put that much more stress
on the bearings until you replace them with two new ones-YES two new ones.

Please PM me if you are serious about obtaining a 48 inch flailmower-BUT I dont think you will want to purchase a second unit when you begin mowing and see how well it does.

 

[Arc weld]

Adjust it like a rototiller with the gearbox level and use the roller on the back to set the cutting height. It should have skid shoes as well but shouldn't really ride on them all the time. You could use the top link for a little more adjustability. Have the 3 pt. arms level from one side to the other. No need to use chains on it for 95% of mowing jobs. Missing knives, expect the two very end one's will cause the cutter shaft to be out of balance and may make it vibrate. Unless it fits a quick hitch, there's not much you can do to make it easier to mount. With practice they aren't too hard to mount. You stole that mower for $200:cool2: Why not get used to it before you look for a smaller one? Just make sure to run it at 540 RPM like it was designed for.

 

[mangus580]

I actually think I can make it fit my quick hitch.... I should look into that.

I hope to order bearings and knifes as soon as I figure out exactly which ones to buy.


The biggest reason I also want a 48" is for my little Bolens Iseki that I have. its only a 15hp rating, and its MUCH more maneuverable than the LS for general lawn duty. I have some trees I cant get under, and some spots in general I just cant fit at all with the bigger tractor.

 

[sodamo]

Maybe you can put this one in top shape and sell it for the smaller one.

David Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet

 

[8404]

i put chains on mine because i use it to mow ditches and uneven slopes. it helps keep the cutter flat on the ground and takes the stress off the hitch parts when you cross uneven areas.
the chains on the flail mower braces are used because i replaced my rear roller with bush hog style tail wheels.

 

[mangus580]

Maybe you can put this one in top shape and sell it for the smaller one.

David Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet

I am greedy - I want BOTH!!

I am working on restoring a Wood RM60 right now that I was going to use behind the bolens.... but its a touch heavy for it, and after the little I have used this Flail.... I am HOOKED!

 

[whirly]

Here is a parts list for the mot 60 & 72 flail mower:

http://cwaiii.com/images/mott utility 60 & 72.pdf

The "D" ring blades are not listed and I "believe" they were an after market replacement. However, Flail Master has anything you may need including the belts.

 

[Arc weld]

Fantastic you found a manual and posted it:thumbsup: The ring mount knives are not aftermarket. They are original Mott. I think the ring mount knives for HD models came after the success of them on the SHD models. Users like that the ring mount knives can swivel in all directions if small obstacles are encountered. The HD models were around for quite a while before the SHD models came out. If you look closely at the parts diagram, it shows the ring mount knives and rings, bolts and nuts, etc. The manual also has a very good explanation of why chains are used. If your tractor doesn't have float on the lift arms you use the chains. Mott always had very good manuals and assembly instructions. The Interstator manuals were very straight forward which was important because they were somewhat complex. I know Mott specified to use teflon tape ONLY on the hyd. fittings and not paste.