Flattening sheet metal

[ray66v]

If you felt the beads are necessary, then you could put a simple stiffener on them.

These were stamped on a press, no time was really spent on the bead, except for the making of the die. The bead was no doubt used to help them hold their shape. However; it is not very substantial, suggesting it was not a major issue. I believe it is more to retain the shape during transport and assembly. If you careful working with them, or use heavier metal, I would bet, they are not absolutely necessary.

We still don't even know if this thing is ever going to spin, or just be a static display.

After seeing my neighbors modern wind mill, blow out all the bearings from very minor damage to the blades, I can tell you what I expect to happen if this thing ever spins.

Update: I checked my neighbors windmill when I went out for lunch, It has very similar blades, about the same dimensions, same amount of extension on the ends, with no bead.

 

[chickenman]

the bead could be simulated with 1/4" or 3/8" square bent and tack welded in place

 

[bcarwell]

Thanks again to all for the continuing suggestions. I have some reading and thinking to do. By the way, would a 20 ton shop press and some stiff 1/2 inch plates with a fan blade in between and then squashing the sandwich with the press do any good ?

I removed one of the blades and started playing with reshaping it (just purchased a shrinking hammer/dolly set from HF I'll be playing with) and rust removal. Got side tracked on getting a home made abrasive cabinet since it appears that is the way to go rather than wire brushes/grinder etc. Picked up a used 40 lb. HF abrasive blaster for cheap (thanks again, Craig's List) and will be kludging the cabinet together. Some really ingenious ideas on the internet for a homemade sand blasting cabinet from Rubber Maid plastic storage tubs, discarded dishwashers and stoves (which have a built in view window !), etc., using shop vac for dust evacuation, etc. Figured I would eventually be sandblasting the windmill motor parts, so might as well get sandblasting capability now and use it on the fan blades to speed things up.

I may have to fab some or all the blades but one reason I wanted to do what I could to save as many as possible is the windmill (a Model 12 Dempster) was made the year I was born, 1947, so I want to keep as much original as I can. And there's something satisfying about keeping costs down even if time IS money...

Bob

 

[schmism]

i find the most straight org blade i could.

it should have some natural curve to it.

I would make a wooden dolley to fit that patter so the blade layed in it nicely.

then take the bent up ones and use the wooden dolly to beat them back into the correct shape. They may not be perfect, but they will be a lot better than what you got now.

 

[AlanB]

Maybe looking at the picture, I am getting a distorted view.

The blades look like they have a gentle round curve in them, I would not want to put them, "flat" and then try and bring them back to curved. (referring to your press comment)

The press could well be used if you were willing to make up the forms, to press out new blades, bead and all, but that would defeat the saving the old parts idea.

The less you work the metal to get it too position, the better off you will be.

 

[zzvyb6]

Don't laugh, but many windmill fan blades were wood and outlasted the sheet metal for many reasons. The wooden blades are nearly identical to cedar siding boards (tapered). Yes, they are flat. If you're not going to take the Dempster to the Antiques Roadshow for appraisal, make up a new wheel from steel banding and the boards. No need to run the band thru the blades, just bolt then thru some tabs. It will probably be down in power from 1.75 to 1.60 hp, but the gain in time and effort will make up the difference. Need I add that replacement will be easier when the time comes? Your neightbor's kids and their .22 will teach you why I said this...

 

[Farmerford]

Thanks Bob and zzbyv6. The Flint & Walling Star 26 looks just like mine looked when I was a child, except my tower may have one more section , and it has (had) a wooden tank in the fourth section.

I haven't removed the head yet, so I have no idea of the condition of the crank, etc.

Any thoughts from either of you will be appreciated.

 

[RWolf]

As mentioned for the rings I wouldn't try and recover those. Flat bar stock of the same size shouldn't break the bank. To make a gentle bend you could use a telephone pole and gentle tug on each side of the pole (bar stock) to create your initial bend. If done gently and carefully you will be able to approximate the diameter of the ring. For fine tuning a body hammer and concrete floor to refine your diameter. As many have noted and during your trials take a straight piece of metal and a hammer. On the concrete floor as you hammer away (and it doesn't need to be hard) you will observe the metal bending. If done carfully you can make some pretty amazing complex bends.

Good luck.

 

[CCWKen]

Beads and curves, Oh my! Looks like were back to real metal shaping.

You "ignorant and offensive" folks, as Ray puts it, are running the poor guy around in circles and confusing him with the hack shop "repairs".

Bring the blades here and we'll have them done in a few hours. Probably before lunch; Which you can buy. Won't have to use no stinking telephone poles or weld-on beads either. Sheesh!

 

[ray66v]

You "ignorant and offensive" folks, as Ray puts it,

Please don't put words in my mouth. That statement was not aimed at anyone else's comments.