Toplink Flexible Top Link

[RBD]

Has a previous thread or post shown how to create a flexible top link? I have searched for one and can't really figure out the best way to do it. The chain part is easy; the connections to the top link at the tractor and the implement are the ones I have trouble with. Do I need to be able to weld?

 

[greg_g]

There are proponents of the chain, I am not one of them, asking the simple question "did you ever try to push a chain?". Due to the potential for the mower to flip up behind the operator, I recommend against them. A rigid toplink is your best mechanical defense against that.

If you can't weld, it's no big deal - hire it done. If you can show us a picture of the A-frame right now, one of us can upload a drawing or a photo of a flexible toplink that's compatible (there's more than one design).

//greg//

 

[lhfarm]

There are proponents of the chain, I am not one of them, asking the simple question "did you ever try to push a chain?". Due to the potential for the mower to flip up behind the operator, I recommend against them. A rigid toplink is your best mechanical defense against that.

If you can't weld, it's no big deal - hire it done. If you can show us a picture of the A-frame right now, one of us can upload a drawing or a photo of a flexible toplink that's compatible (there's more than one design).

//greg//

I've too have been searching for a flexible top link to use with my box blade and my grader blade. Now that I have gauge wheels, I would really like the float. Am I going to need a different flexible top link for each implement?

Thanks,

 

[radioman]

I find that different implements seems to have thier own top link adjustments to make. It wouldn't hurt to have different chains for each one. Why not buy the grade 70 20 foot long ready made ? You can cut what you need with grinder and pick up the larger links with turnbuckles on it and use that to pin in the top links pins. No welding needed. It seems that the ready made chains with hooks already on them is cheaper then the chain itself in short peices for 20 bucks.

 

[greg_g]

Am I going to need a different flexible top link for each implement?

Ordinarily the flexible toplink is considered part of the implement, so I guess the answer is yes. But I think you and I may have a definition of "float". To me, that's a function of the lower lift arms - not of the toplink, flexible or rigid.

I can't see any good to be had putting a flexible toplink bracket on a boxblade or grader blade. You want them to stay rigid, otherwise they would roll over material that you were otherwise wanting to move.

That said, I've had three different types. And the type is determined by the design of the implements A-frame.
1. U-type
2. parallel bars (forward carry)
3. parallel bars with wings (top carry)
When I get time, I can post photos of the second and third type. I sold the implement that had the U-type on it, but I can probably find a photo on the internet.

//greg//

 

[RBD]

Thanks for the input. I was really thinking in terms of use of the flexible top link with a landscape rake so chain seems simplest solution.

 

[texasjohn]

There are times when a flexible top link is EXACTLY what I need.

This became obvious when I dumped numerous loads of material on my road and started to level it out... front wheels would climb up, causing the box blade to dig into the road, then lift high when rear tractor wheels go down the mound.

On Craig's list I found a fellow selling a anchor chain... links are made of about 1 inch material..... each link weighs about 10 lbs and is about 8 inches long.

I took one link and attach it between my top link and the box blade top attachment. My top link is hydraulic. By adjusting the angle of attack with both the hydraulic top link and height of the lift arms, I am now able to make all needed adjustments to properly spread out the material along the road with many fewer passes than before.

I think that a chain on a landscape rake would be an excellent choice.

 

[John861]

Chain is much safer if you run it through a pipe. This will provide a limit to how far the implement can come up (or the front of the tractor can come up if the implement snags something). Changing the length of pipe will let you fine tune the amount of float you get: longer pipe = less float.

-John

 

[MESSMAKER]

Chain is much safer if you run it through a pipe. This will provide a limit to how far the implement can come up (or the front of the tractor can come up if the implement snags something). Changing the length of pipe will let you fine tune the amount of float you get: longer pipe = less float.

-John

Nice!!!

 

[bota7800]

That said, I've had three different types. And the type is determined by the design of the implements A-frame.
1. U-type


//greg//

Is this what you mean by the "U-type"? This is from my mower.

 

[greg_g]

Is this what you mean by the "U-type"? This is from my mower.

Exactly. In that particular configuration, it operates very similarly to the parallel bars (forward carry) that I mentioned above.

//greg//

 

[BlacknTan]

I like the kind used on the Woods X series Brushbulls.

showcontent

Similar to the JD implements designed for I-Match.

iMatch Quick Hitch (option)

 

[ShenandoahJoe]

Does anyone have a picture or diagram of how you'd use a chain as a top link? I'm having trouble picturing it. TIA.

 

[Charlesaf3]

another thought - hydraulic toplink with float on the remote. Its what I use. A little more damped obviously

Some implements have an optional top link floater attachment you can get or copy.

 

[oliver28472]

Does anyone have a picture or diagram of how you'd use a chain as a top link? I'm having trouble picturing it. TIA.

Don't have a picture but just think about an appropriate length of chain cut to fit with a clevis on each end. You'll still use the pins.

 

[ShenandoahJoe]

Wow, I am such a noob. I use clevis pins all the time, but it never occurred to me that the thing I'm pinning is a separate part called a clevis. Thanks!

 

[8934]

Here link to picture of a chain top link I made, http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/132025-imatch-mod-non-comptable-attachments.html

But I only operate on level ground

 

[kthompson]

Damaged the pto on one of tractors using a mower with no up travel limit from 3rd arm. Learned it was costly and dangerous. You really need the 3rd arm with some limit to it for protection to equipment and operator.

 

[greg_g]

Damaged the pto on one of tractors using a mower with no up travel limit from 3rd arm. Learned it was costly and dangerous. You really need the 3rd arm with some limit to it for protection to equipment and operator.

100% concur. Using chain is just askin' for trouble in my mind.

Just remembered a 4th kind of flexible toplink bracket; the yoke type. Had one of those too, but sold it with a QuickHitch.

It's important to understand the difference between a "flexible toplink" (chain) and a flexible toplink bracket. The latter is used in conjunction with a conventional (rigid) toplink. The bracket moves, giving you the flexibility of a chain. And the conventional toplink affords the protection against accident/damage/injury that you can't get from chain..

//greg//

 

[GE222]

My two cents:

Never use a chain on any type of PTO powered equipment. Things can get ugly real fast. Even quicker than the fastest thing in the world if you have ever heard the joke.

On a box blade or rake, I still don't really see the need, but maybe I have never had the urge to try it.

If the reason is for depth control, add some gauge wheels in the back of the blade or rake. Woods has them as an option on the large rear blades and rakes.