Floating top link on a box blade?

[/pine]

I have a box blade for driveway maintenance, but I've gotten mixed results, mainly due to how the blade pitches down as the tractor pitches up when driving over bumps and piles of stone. I've been contemplating buying a tow-behind box blade instead...

After using my brush hog the other day and observing how the floating top link allows a limited amount of float for the mower to follow the ground contour independent of the tractor, I got to thinking about how an added floating top link might allow the box blade to work better in grading out the stone.

Anybody ever try this? Is there something fundamental that I'm overlooking? (I often find out there's a reason why no one does something after I have a burst of inspiration, sometimes with spectacular results.) I might just disconnect the top link altogether prior to a run down the driveway.

This is cheap and simple enough that I'm going to try regardless, but would like to poll others first.

Thanks in advance.

Is it not your intention to level said "bumps and piles of stone" ??...if so methinks you are moving too fast and not allowing the cutting edge of the bb to engage...one of the main benefits of having a hydraulic top link is being able to make adjustments on the fly...

 

[big bubba]

ignorant question: would draft control come into play in OP's situation? if fully retracted, would that achieve similar effect as float chain? what about a hyd top link? i'd never part with mine & 7' hd box blade, regards

 

[oosik]

I have a hydraulic top link on my M6040. Works very well for ALL my land engagement implements. LPGS - rear blade - ROBB First I lower the scarifiers and rough up the area. Raise the scarifiers and lower the implement just enough to clip off the tops of the humps. Lower the implement and drag until smooth. This works with the LPGS and ROBB. Rear blade can be a real bear to get a suitable finish. Rear blade is best for snow and cleaning out the driveway ditches.

 

[Tinhack]

I'm thinking that the "stirrup" is some kind of floating link? Did you mean (right AHEAD of the QH?)

I guess it depends on which end you're standing on.

Forgot to mention--The 3PH is all the way up in this photo.

Here it is:

 

[big bubba]

agree w/oosik HTL is the answer for fine tuning depth control for soil engagement implements

 

[oosik]

Honestly - my LPGS and ROBB worked pretty well with my manual top link. However - with the hydraulic top link it's so much easier and I can fine tune to a gnats eyelash. I use to think - OH, well - that's good enough. Now with the HTL it's so easy to go from that condition to perfect - never give it a second concerning thought.

If a prospective buyer could see the difference - there would be no hesitation about purchase.

This whole situation revolves around this. I'm 80 years old and DO NOT enjoy all the time/effort involved in fine tuning a manual top link. The stopping - dismounting - twisting the top link - start again - etc, etc, etc. The HTL allow you to make adjustments "on the go" and see the results immediately. It is one "tool" that makes a land engagement implement as efficient as humanly possible.

 

[JohnnyMX]

The EA landscape rake I have has the usual connection point for quick hitch l top link and an extended "slot" where you can connect the top link to allow for some floating. I'm still learning how to use it best, but combined with gauge wheels, it does a good job. I am never eager to remove the quick hitch to mount it this way, but I will if the job is large enough.