the old grind
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2012
- Messages
- 4,412
- Location
- Mid-Michigan
- Tractor
- NH T-1520 HST, NH TC33DA HST, Case DX26 HST, .Terramite T5C, . NH L785
Kroil stinks to high heaven (naphthalene and turps, I suppose) but IMO tops blaster, given soak-time and re-applied as needed. (evaporates quickly) Expect some to 'creep' out of the bottom seam of every other can.
(been through ten or so 8oz and few still fit to decant to from the gallon I've yet to tap, a ~$50 bargain back in '06
) Also, expect to splash a lot when squirting on hard to get at things. A bit of small tubing can extend reach while tipping the can for just enough flow. Don't cut the tip any shorter than you have to (it really comes out of there) With just the red tip left off I can smell the can from an arm's length away or more.
Since using Fluid Film I seem to have lost track of most of my aerosol cans that aren't paint. Everywhere you've heard of using it the stuff really does work and lasts longer than 'you name it'. Grease in a can gobs on. FF wicks in, and is called "self-healing" because of its thixotropic property that softens when disturbed/moved. Best, easiest to apply rust barrier I've ever used on outdoor stuff, bar none, and as said the can & straw is plenty to work with. (btw, wipe/buff paint/chrome for a wet-look shine)
Since using Fluid Film I seem to have lost track of most of my aerosol cans that aren't paint. Everywhere you've heard of using it the stuff really does work and lasts longer than 'you name it'. Grease in a can gobs on. FF wicks in, and is called "self-healing" because of its thixotropic property that softens when disturbed/moved. Best, easiest to apply rust barrier I've ever used on outdoor stuff, bar none, and as said the can & straw is plenty to work with. (btw, wipe/buff paint/chrome for a wet-look shine)