Things I didn't consider when buying

   / Things I didn't consider when buying #21  
That'd be a time saver. Part of my frustration is that the ROPS installation is such that the bolts don't _quiiiite_ fit cleanly. What works for ROPS position on one side doesn't quite work for the other side, some jiggling is required. I bet it's much less sensitive to position without having to thread the bolts through. (Because rops pinches the threads so one bolt is hard to turn until it gets that extra jiggle(s) after the first bolt is seated).

Did you worry about whether there are safety considerations relative to the threaded bolt? As you said, you have experience with other unthreaded bolt setups, I don't.

Previous thread on bolts vs pins:

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...ap-rops-bolt-pin-post5500460.html#post5500460
 
   / Things I didn't consider when buying
  • Thread Starter
#22  
There are a lot of good solutions to this one, if you peruse the site. I haven't done it yet, but plan to build a box to slide into the tube on the bottom of the loader frame. I already carry a chain there.

I strongly advise not carrying things in the bucket, as it's too easy to forget it's there. It's a sickening feeling when you see your "newly modified" chainsaw appear between the front tires... and don't ask me how I know that.

Lol, er, I mean, my sympathies.

Yeah, I've been reading the various carryall and other topics. I haven't seen any ROPs mounted solutions I like though, and I'm not entirely sure I'd want to take off my favored rear implement just to carry some things anyway.

No idea what I'll do yet. Hanging chains from my grapple the other day was unsatisfying though, and even with a chainsaw in the bucket I felt the need to bungee it in place so it wouldn't be sliding from side to side (banging cutting bits on the bucket) as I traversed my hilly land. Since I'm definitely absent minded from time to time, your tale of chainsaws under tractors resonates with me.
 
   / Things I didn't consider when buying
  • Thread Starter
#23  
Beam type torque wrenches are accurate and cheap. Probably better than a cheap HF clicker.

Yeah, I probably went overkill here. I bought a more expensive split-beam clicker instead of a micrometer clicker, mostly because I knew I would probably forget to reset the micrometer clicker setting after each use and would ruin the spring in short order. The micrometer clickers just screamed "you will ruin this quickly" to me. As I get older I have to ... attention proof ... my life.
 
   / Things I didn't consider when buying #24  
Fascinating, captain! :)

That'd be a time saver. Part of my frustration is that the ROPS installation is such that the bolts don't _quiiiite_ fit cleanly. What works for ROPS position on one side doesn't quite work for the other side, some jiggling is required. I bet it's much less sensitive to position without having to thread the bolts through. (Because rops pinches the threads so one bolt is hard to turn until it gets that extra jiggle(s) after the first bolt is seated).

Did you worry about whether there are safety considerations relative to the threaded bolt? As you said, you have experience with other unthreaded bolt setups, I don't.

That is why I replaced Kubota 5/8" bolt with 9/16" diameter clevis pin. 9/16" diameter clevis pin is probably not available in your local hardware store.

I do not discern any safety issues. The Kubota ROPS bolt is a pivot, not a support. Kubota loves to sell replacement proprietary ROPS bolts at absurd $60 per pair.
 
   / Things I didn't consider when buying
  • Thread Starter
#25  
Or, you can ask me. I have dumped my chain saw or spade/bow rake/1 gallon sprayer out of the bucket at least 20 times in eight years.


I wanted a place for 5/16" Logging Chains convenient to the rear of the tractor.

I moved the small, gray, plastic, Kubota tool box from the rear to the left fender. Simple bolt through mount on left fender.

Removed small aluminum angle the Kubota tool box was mounted on and substituted a two inch piece of angle iron running the width of the rear of the tractor, to act as a wider, more secure base. Another simple drill and bolt through mount but secure nuts with lock washers.

Mounted half a steel 40mm ammo can (9" X 14" X 3-1/2") on the two inch angle to store 8' + 12' lengths of 5/16" Logging Chains. Chains are secured by gravity. Some type of garage-sale $2 thick steel or aluminum baking pan of similar dimensions would work too.

To the right, mounted a small, tough plastic basket, in which I carry infrequently used 3/16" chain, used to pull up smaller saplings by the roots with FEL. On saplings, 5/16" chain will slip; 3/16" grips. Also keep a can of spray wax lube in the basket, to lube implement draw pins and PTO splines.

Satisfactory for past seven years.

Interesting. I like that it's low enough not to occlude your view to the rear too. Some people put stuff up that would make it difficult to turn around and see what's going on behind the tractor.
 
   / Things I didn't consider when buying
  • Thread Starter
#26  
Btw, I understand a lot of people are content to leave their tractor and implements outside, so if that includes you then it frees you of a lot of worries. For me, my choice is to house my toys if possible. I have a fair bit of garage space, but it's poorly used so I'm trying to use it better. Come winter, I will (hopefully) not have anything out in the snow. Or such is my hope. If I have to leave something out, then there's a priority list, e.g. things with PTO shafts or hydraulics are garaged first.

Almost every vehicle I've owned in New England died of rust and general "no parts available" old age problems. Since I just spent more on a new tractor than I've ever spent on any vehicle, and since mother nature actively trying to mess with my health these days, I want to keep the tractor in good resale condition in case something happens. So the tractor is inside and the truck is outside until I can make them both fit. A majority (but not all) of my neighbors leave their equipment outside. To each their own. I'll use it hard, but I won't leave it outside to rust.

Meanwhile, I was just sharing my "oh, I didn't think of that" list FWIW for would-be buyers, though I greatly appreciate some of the suggestions today!
 
   / Things I didn't consider when buying #27  
A couple of years ago I broke down and bought a 3/4 drive socket set in English and bought a second set of metric sockets. A cheaper set but by no means inexpensive. I only use them once in a while but when you need them. I have a pretty good torque wrench but I don’t use it very often.
 
   / Things I didn't consider when buying #28  
Still, the (new) lights would be above the tractor, and I know I need light under the tractor, so they won't fix all my problems. Still thinking about this one.

Have you considered buying a light that fits around your head akin to a miner's light? I bought one at Lowe's for around $10. It frees both my hands for greasing and shines where I am looking. The only issue is when I use my creeper the back of the light can somethings slide off my head, so I know to be careful when laying my head down on the creeper.
 
   / Things I didn't consider when buying
  • Thread Starter
#29  
Have you considered buying a light that fits around your head akin to a miner's light? I bought one at Lowe's for around $10. It frees both my hands for greasing and shines where I am looking. The only issue is when I use my creeper the back of the light can somethings slide off my head, so I know to be careful when laying my head down on the creeper.

Yeah, I have one of those, that's a pretty good idea. Though mine doesn't fit very tightly so I mostly only use it for things where I'm upright (usually dealing with some fairly disgusting situation in my 230 year old basement). No doubt there's a more tightly fitting version somewhere.

While reading your post it occurred to me that if I get that set-of-6 eight-foot strips I linked, I could mount one strip on a 2x4 and just slide it under the tractor on the floor when I need it. That'd be a pretty serious amount of light distributed across the much of the length of the tractor. For the set-of-6 lights for $139 (assuming the rest on my ceiling), that's $23 and change for an 8-foot 8500 lumen light under the tractor (plus cost of a 2x4). Compare that to all more expensive, lower lumen tiny "cob" worklights Hmmm. I like this idea. Though I suppose it's a bit over the top and too big.
 
   / Things I didn't consider when buying #30  
Everything I have is outside, and I will attest that isn't the best solution. My 5 YO tractor is going to need tires soon, as they are getting weather cracked. Moisture and sun are the worst enemies of iron and electrical connections; and no matter how tightly I tarp the wind always manages to get underneath.

RE: chains aren't long enough; consider a length of cable instead. It might save you some money, and cable doesn't bend the way that chain can.
 

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