I love it! Some of these comments, that is. It's as if EVERY plow is the same. EVERY plot of dirt is the same. EVERY tractor is the same. And EVERY operator is the same.
There are plows (brand/design/model) that simply pull easier than others. That's why they're held in such high regard. Jerry mentioned the MF#66. That's an easy pulling mounted plow. So is the Ford 101. Deere plows have historically pulled like someone tossed out the anchor. The primary difference is in the contour of the moldboard and angle of attack of the share. The Howse plows available these days use wear parts that are SUPPOSEDLY copies of the Ford (Pittsburg or Oliver/White built) 101. But the Howse plow pulls considerably harder than that Ford plow.
Plows designed in the 30's and 40's were intended for different speeds than plows of the 50's, 60's, and beyond. High speed in 1940 was 2-1/2 or 3 mph. High speed in 1965 was 5mph+. By the early 1960's, old logic on plowing had changed. It was found that tillage work was more efficient at higher speeds and smaller implement width. (to a point) Plow designs reflected that different thinking.
As plows went along through their evolution, they were used in different conditions. As crop science developed, and yields went up, so did crop residue. Plows had to have more "throat clearance" to handle leftover stalks. That made the plow longer in most cases. And that makes them pull harder.
Plows need to be set right in relation to the ground, and in relation to the tractor. A PROPERLY set up plow involves setting track width on the tractor to suit the plow. Commonly, people try to set the drawbar of the plow to suit the rear wheel track. In order to keep the "draft line" of the plow centered behind the tractor, it's the wheels that need to move and NOT the drawbar in many cases. Plow set-up goes way beyond simply "getting it level". If the plow isn't set right, the tractor has to man-handle the plow. Disregard the draft line being centered, and considerable effort and energy is wasted on trying to keep the tractor in a straight line rather than going forward.
Due to the simple fact that most modern tractors had ZERO engineering for use as a "plow horse", many aren't good candidates for plowing. Most compacts are shorter than the "old school" tractors built years ago. To an extent, the longer the tractor, the better it will handle a plow.
Soils vary considerably. SouNdguy mentioned the Ford adds that pictured old "N"s pulling three bottoms. Most of those old add photos were taken at the Ford Proving Grounds....In Michigan SAND. Try pulling 3X14"s in some of the clay soils around here! You wouldn't get the plow 2" in the ground before you'd run out of power AND traction. In this immediate area, back when "N"'s roamed the farm fields, it wasn't at all UNCOMMON to see them with single bottom 16" plows or at the most, 2X12"'s. Same tractors, just totally different soil conditions.
Some tractors are just better at handling heavy draft loads. Even when set up and ballasted correctly, some just don't do as well as others. A properly designed and adjusted draft control system makes the work easier, but again, some tractors just don't do as well.
And like so many things, there's a LOT more to plowing than what meets the eye. There's nothing like experience. I know a guy who spent a lot of time demonstrating tractors (for John Deere) at farm shows back in the 50's and 60's. He could make a tractor appear to have some extra HP with his technique. You golfers out there.... Ever see a big, strong, strapping young man that looked like he was killing the ball get smoked by an older golfer who simply knew how to drive the ball. It's all about technique.
For anyone who subscribes to the statement that "All men are created equal", You've never seen a group of plowmen in the same field at the same time. There are folks who just simply make it look easy. And there are those who never quite get the hang of it.
