For those with block heaters

[LouNY]

It gets fairly chilly here in the winter months, and out of the diesels I have owned: 2001 6.6, 2016 Colorado 2.8, and 2020 Silverado 3.0, I would say none of them (when properly running) ever required the block heater to start the engine. The 2001 had a time when only one glow plug was working, and that stint did require the block heater to compensate in the cold. On the coldest of nights I do sometimes plug in just in case, and it feels like it is a more graceful start when I do. I plug in before i go to bed - 8pm-10pm, and start up around 4am, so it stays plugged in for 6-8 hours.

For the current tractor JD 3039R, i always plug in if i leave it out overnight, or for the entire day - no idea whether it is necessary or not. My old JD 770 did not have a block heater, so I relied on glow plugs only, and I did have one time where stored in a not quite weather tight un-insulated garage, and it did not want to start and run on all 3 cylinders.

An engine will likely appreciate being kept warm but a continually run block heater can bump the power bill a bit.
The small block heaters are normally 400 watt heaters the larger 800 and a few 1000 watt units.
If your power is $0.20 per kwh running a heater for 24 hours a day adds up.
400 watts = 0.400 kwatt x $0.20 x 24hrs = $ 1.92 per day or over $57 per month.
800 watt heat over $114 per month and then the killer the 1000 watt heaters,
$4.80 a day or $144 a month.
I have had decent luck with the smart switches (wifi) to control block heaters, the ones I have used do not have a outside temperature input but they have considerable programming ability for times on/off as well as remotely being turned on via a smart phone app.

 

[whitenorth]

I am way up north about 30 miles from the Canadian border. Clearing snow in the winter is one of the primary tasks for my diesel tractor (JD 4120 that I bought new in 2005). A block heater was the only option I added to it at purchase. I wouldn’t dream of starting a diesel engine on any machine up here in winter regularly without a block heater.

How long I energize it depends on the outside temperature. 1/2 hour is good between 25 and 55 deg F. If it’s colder than that, I’ll let it go for an hour.

I keep the tractor under a porch on the barn that I can see from the house. The block heater is plugged into a heavy gauge extension cord, which is plugged into an outlet that is switched inside my house.

There is also a light on the front of a boat bar in the house that is plugged into that outlet. I know the block heater is on when that light is on.

If it snows overnight, I’ll flip that switch as soon as I wake up in the morning. If it snows while I’m at work 30 minutes away, I’ll call the wife or kids and have them flip it when I start my drive home.

If you’ve ever had the chance to listen to a diesel engine start in cold weather with and without a block heater, you’d quickly gain an appreciation for the damage that is done to the engine by not using it. Mine sounds just like it does in the middle of July, in the middle of January, when I use the block heater.
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I like the idea of a light to know when it is on or off. The timer I have has 2 outlets. I'll have to rig something up.

 

[5030]

I'd sure like to see an actual link that states starting a cold diesel engine with no block heater damages it.

I don't believe there is one but could be wrong and I want a link from someone that is a professional, not some amateur person.

I don't think there is one actually. Like I said previously, the rattle you hear is actually incomplete combustion in a pre chamber engine and so long as there is adequate oil pressure no damage is done and never will be. Conversely, the hydraulic oil is still cold which is why I warm up my units prior to moving them in cold temps. You'll do way more damage internally with stone cold hydraulic fluid than you'll ever do with a cold start engine.

Bring on the substantiative link if there is one....

 

[Beaver Cove Deere]

I only heat my block when I know I’m going to use the tractor. Been doing it that way for over 30 years.
When to energize is dependent on what time the storm is expected.

If I’ve forgotten 4 hours is more than enough to prevent beating on the battery but cold starting will work.

 

[Oaktree]

I like block heaters on any engine that is going to be used in cold weather. I feel it is easier on the engine, even ones that will start without one. Most of the larger more expensive equipment that is setup for cold weather will have engine and many times transmission/hydraulic heaters. Even if they will start without it why be that mean to a piece of equipment.
One thing to be aware of is that some engines with temperature sensitive pre heat controls may not run the manifold heat long enough in very cold temperatures.
I have seen a few engines that would fire and the cold air would snuff the fire out in -20F weather, not nice to have happen as often that first start has taken enough of toll on the battery that more time on the pre heater and the engine now cranks too slow to fire. Not a fun way to start out.

Even gasoline engines can benefit from a block heater in really cold weather. My snowmobile starts a lot better using one. Such a small engine (aluminum) that it only takes a half hour or so.

I bought one of those magnetic pan heaters for my tractor not realizing the pan was non-ferrous. I'll use the old school trick of a droplight with a 100W bulb in the engine compartment if I'm going to need the tractor and it's going to get below 20 or so.
There's nothing I need to do that has to be done in -20 temperatures.

SF Bay Area and the Cumins Diesel hospital generator coolant heaters are on 24/7 to maintain 180F for instant start and load transfer a few seconds later...

Block or inline coolant heaters seem to be standard equipment on most, if not all commercial generators I've had to deal with.

 

[JRH02]

This question is a really good way to find out who is connected to the grid

Seriously though, I've heard many times about folk who complain about block heaters failing. It doesn't matter the style: hose, frost plug, etc. But I believe the failures tend toward those who plug them in and leave them powered. Especially with undersized or over length extension cords with receptacles and plugs in poor condition. Or the heater is a much higher wattage than is really needed and still left powered.

 

[Cycledude]

When it’s below zero I’m pretty sure my tractor with a 3 cylinder 55 horsepower Yanmar engine wouldn’t start without having the block heater plugged in for an hour or so even though it’s parked inside a non heated building, if it’s really cold like -20 I sometimes plug it in for 3-4 hours.
Yes I have operated diesel engines that start very easily when it’s -20 without being plugged in but my 3 cylinder Yanmar ain’t like that. I ain’t never had a no start situation but I believe that’s because I plug it in when it’s cold out.

 

[DarkBlack]

My tractor stays in my heated garage, but if I had it stored outside in the cold, I’d definitely use a cheap timer with the block heater, so you don’t waste electricity through the entire night.
You can get outdoor rated timers on Amazon for $13. Would pay for itself in short time

 

[CalG]

This question is a really good way to find out who is connected to the grid

Seriously though, I've heard many times about folk who complain about block heaters failing. It doesn't matter the style: hose, frost plug, etc. But I believe the failures tend toward those who plug them in and leave them powered. Especially with undersized or over length extension cords with receptacles and plugs in poor condition. Or the heater is a much higher wattage than is really needed and still left powered.

Voltage drop due to cord length or plug condition can only INCREASE a resistance heater's expected life time.

 

[LouNY]

From what I recall over the years the easiest way to have a block heater fail quickly is to start and run the engine with them still plugged in.