For those with block heaters

   / For those with block heaters #61  
From what I recall over the years the easiest way to have a block heater fail quickly is to start and run the engine with them still plugged in.
Interesting because always plugged in and run regularly and when power goes out.

The freeze plug heaters lasted a few years but the in line radiator hose heaters about 7-10.

I can hear the heater cycling on and off so being plugged in sides not mean on all the time.
 
   / For those with block heaters #62  
I live in north idaho. I use a device called Yolink sold thru amazon. My tractor shed is 300 feet from the house, and the hub is in my house. Works flawlessly. I can either set it on manually, or on a timer, or on a set schedule. This way i dont need to turn it on for days i dont plan on using it. I only need 2-3 hours of preheat on the coldest days. If i inow ill be moving snow on tuesday at 9am, ill preset the schedule to tuesday 6am. Its all warm when i go out there.

I also placed an outlet in my carriage barn which is 400 feet from hub. But signal goes thru other devices, so also works flawlessly. This one if for f350 block heater.

They have both outdoor and indoor outlets. I use the outdoor outlet for tractor lean to, and indoor outlet for the carriage barn as it can be placed indoors. The outdoor unit has 2 zones, so i use this for my step snow melt mats also. One zone for steps and one for landing pad which takes longer to melt snow.

You only need 1 hub, but you can use more for longer coverage.

Also use their leak detectors, refer and freezer temp alarms.


 
   / For those with block heaters #63  
Whenever I need to get the tractors out to move snow etc. in cold weather, the walk to the barn to plug in the heater is well worth the "evaluation" time.

I run open station, so I need to dress right anyway. If my fingers get so cold just plugging in the heater and battery charger in the morning, I KNOW it's going to need to get sunny and warm by mid day when I'm ready to go move snow!
;-)
 
   / For those with block heaters #64  
Thanks for the link. Like the fact that it has 2 plugs. Can it be set to on go on at certain temps like Topzide can do?
If you can't find that functionality in a unit or app, You can always get a WiFi outlet, the plug one of the thermostat outlets that farm stores and some hardware stores sell to control livestock water heaters. Plug the WiFi controlled outlet into the wall outlet (so it always has power), then plug the thermostat outlet in to that.

I use one of these to power the heated water bowl for our barn cats (and our chickens, when we had them):
HEATIT Thermostatically controlled outlet

There are fancier ones available, including ones that are programmable for on and off temperatures. But that one does what I needed, and only costs about $15.
 
   / For those with block heaters #65  
On a cold start the oil pressure may be good but that does not mean the oil is circulating properly.

There must be a reason industrial equipment is usually set up with a prelube interval in the start procedure.
 
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   / For those with block heaters #66  
The majority of wear in an internal combustion engine occurs in the first few moments after starting, until the oil warms up and flows normally to all the nooks and crannies in the engine. While modern multi-viscosity oils help reduce this period, they do not eliminate it. An indication of pressure on the oil pressure gauge is NOT a good indicator that the engine engine is getting properly lubed. All it means is that there is pressure at the sensor, which is not the same thing as oil flowing properly to all areas of the engine. The fact that your engine starts (or even starts easily) is also no indication that these lubrication issues are not happening.

The wear on first start happens at any temperature, but is worse are colder temps for two reasons: the oil may not be flowing properly until it warms up a bit, and the internal clearances are tighter in cold temperatures due to contraction of the metals. (That latter effect is magnified when dissimilar metals are used, since they expand and contract at different rates.)
 
   / For those with block heaters #67  
The majority of wear in an internal combustion engine occurs in the first few moments after starting, until the oil warms up and flows normally to all the nooks and crannies in the engine. While modern multi-viscosity oils help reduce this period, they do not eliminate it. An indication of pressure on the oil pressure gauge is NOT a good indicator that the engine engine is getting properly lubed. All it means is that there is pressure at the sensor, which is not the same thing as oil flowing properly to all areas of the engine. The fact that your engine starts (or even starts easily) is also no indication that these lubrication issues are not happening.

The wear on first start happens at any temperature, but is worse are colder temps for two reasons: the oil may not be flowing properly until it warms up a bit, and the internal clearances are tighter in cold temperatures due to contraction of the metals. (That latter effect is magnified when dissimilar metals are used, since they expand and contract at different rates.)
And all this is no reason for any concerns! Yes, today's lubricants and engine materials are that GOOD!

I've got a 2007 four cylinder turbocharged automobile sitting in the drive with 1 quarter of a million miles on it. The engine is the best part!
 
   / For those with block heaters #68  
I just sold my 1994 dodge cummins for $6000, and it had over 370,000 miles on it. Engine purrs right along. The transmission was the only weak link. Was on a block heater during winter its entire life. That heater was on a wall timer. 2 hours before use it was powered on.
 
   / For those with block heaters #69  
And all this is no reason for any concerns! Yes, today's lubricants and engine materials are that GOOD!
Which still does not change the fact that the majority of wear in internal combustion engines happens in the first few moments after start. Warming the block reduces that wear.
 
   / For those with block heaters #70  
Which still does not change the fact that the majority of wear in internal combustion engines happens in the first few moments after start. Warming the block reduces that wear.
All I'm saying is that that wear associated with cold start ups will NOT have any measurable effect on YOUR enjoyment of the tractor.

You will be dead before the engine wear becomes "a thing". Barring other factors of course.

I own equipment to USE it. Not to see who's grand children can put it out as a yard ornament.
 

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