for you 6.0psd haters, here you go - honesty :)

[3930dave]

I've researched the 6.0 on so many forums it isn't funny. The more you read about it, the sicker it makes you feel....if you own one, that is! :laughing:
For hard starting, you hear everything from low bat., bad ficm, sensors, glow plugs, harnesses, fuel, oil........and your head begins to spin and you wonder what you've gotten yourself into....I try to stay away and let ignorance become bliss!

Nothing like hearing first hand experiences from good ole tractor guys though!
Travis

It can be a bit daunting to know where to start (pun intended) sometimes.....

For that reason, I often avoid saying "You truck is doing this, so it must be this has failed....." - there can sometimes be a unlikely or non-obvious cause at play.

Like any diagnosis, you need to go through a check and eliminate list. In general, I like to start with the GPR as 1) they are known to wear over time, and 2) as parts go, they are usually one of the lowest cost to replace.

Battery is a good point - tenders are great for all batteries as a top-up in the cold, but esp. with diesels to keep up the fast spin to start performance. Also..... I've heard that one of the modules (FICM I think) really does not like to be stressed with low operating voltage - to the point of possible damage. True or not - keeping the batteries on a diesel in tip-top shape is never a bad strategy.

Rgds, D.

 

[Soundguy]

keeping the batteries on a diesel in tip-top shape is never a bad strategy.

Rgds, D.

yup. and mine are newish. less than 3.. but testing poorly..

 

[paulwestski]

Most diesel techs will check the batteries first and then the motor oil.
Since the injectors are hydraulically driven by the high pressure oil pump (HPOP) worn out or cheap oil will cause a hard start/no start condition.


I purchased the Auto Engiunity computer diagnostic software to work on mine. I have a 7.3, 6.0 and used to have a Ford Escape, dad has two ford gassers so the software has paid for itself a couple of times.

 

[EverythingAttachments]

Ted
Don't worry about all of the complaints.
The 6.0 is a good motor....once you bullet proof it, and don't try to make stupid HP.
You already replaced the head studs and oil cooler and EGR delete.
Those are the three main culprits to head gasket failure.
Don't waist your money on a cold air intake, they do more harm than good as far as letting dirt into your motor.

In the spring go ahead perform a cooling system flush.
(Read up on this it's pretty involved, not your standard V-8 flush)
Install a cooling system filter and change over to a "Extended Life Coolant" not the Ford Gold junk.
I use CAT ELC coolant in mine.

If you already don't use synthetic oil it's time to switch to a 5w-40

Of course if I had a catastrophic engine failure I'd be installing a Cummins.

Thanks! And this is Travis, by the way....I do most of the posting on TBN. Ted probably wouldn't be taking the time to discuss this...he'd drive it till it fell out and replace!!
OR
He'd say that he doesn't buy stuff that you have to work on that much!!!

I think they flushed the coolant when the engine work was performed, but i'll verify the type that they filled it with.
I also had them put the blue spring(ford part) into the fuel pressure regulator which is supposed to help maintain fuel pressure.
No cold air intake for me, but the Cat went missing and I replaced the factory muffler with a Banks.
Travis

 

[Soundguy]

Most diesel techs will check the batteries first and then the motor oil.
Since the injectors are hydraulically driven by the high pressure oil pump (HPOP) worn out or cheap oil will cause a hard start/no start condition.


I purchased the Auto Engiunity computer diagnostic software to work on mine. I have a 7.3, 6.0 and used to have a Ford Escape, dad has two ford gassers so the software has paid for itself a couple of times.

not worn out.. or cheap.. mechanic went back to using delo and reduced intervals.. I still would rather have syn in that truck though.

 

[3930dave]

yup. and mine are newish. less than 3.. but testing poorly..

Went with 2 Costco ones on my 7.3. Decent price/warranty and a buddy that runs a small fleet has had good luck with them. I think you use battery maintainers on your trucks that sit, so low charge shouldn't have been the issue.

Rgds, D.

 

[AGRIMAN]

Ted
Don't worry about all of the complaints.
The 6.0 is a good motor....once you bullet proof it, and don't try to make stupid HP.
You already replaced the head studs and oil cooler and EGR delete.
Those are the three main culprits to head gasket failure.
Don't waist your money on a cold air intake, they do more harm than good as far as letting dirt into your motor.

In the spring go ahead perform a cooling system flush.
(Read up on this it's pretty involved, not your standard V-8 flush)
Install a cooling system filter and change over to a "Extended Life Coolant" not the Ford Gold junk.
I use CAT ELC coolant in mine.

If you already don't use synthetic oil it's time to switch to a 5w-40

Of course if I had a catastrophic engine failure I'd be installing a Cummins.

I also have both 7.3 and 6.0 diesels. I agree that once bullet proofed the 6.0 is a good engine. EGR delete, new studs will fix the issues and you might as well replace the cooler when you are there. I run Bully Dog programmers on my trucks and although I don't get stuipd with it, you do need to keep a eye on the exhaust temp. I have eliminated the cat and muffler on my 450 which helped, but I mainly just love to hear the turbo.

If one of the 6.0 does go out, I'll rebuilt it.

 

[LindenBruce]

Thanks 3930dave. I must have gotten a good one, because the only thing I have done to it, outside of regular servicing, was to have the turbo cleaned. Next time I will do it myself and save 400 bucks. I'm going to try Hot Shots when I change the oil here next month. That should help the cold start rough idle situation. Which gets worse the longer sits between starts. Which sits frequently really. Fuel prices and all. I can't do the EGR cooler delete being I'm in Communist Kalifornia and have to have smog checks every two years. Bruce

 

[AGRIMAN]

yup. and mine are newish. less than 3.. but testing poorly..

I tend to get around 2 1/2 years out of a set of batteries. Normally the first sign of pending battery trouble is the engine will start to turn slower than normal. Once this happens, I don't fool around with it, I just go ahead and get two new battery. These engines need to spin to start, weak batteries will lead to all sorts of other problems and end up costing you more than a new set.

With that said, I always keep the old set. Normally one battery will be weaker than the other but still strong enough to be used in one of the other old farm trucks or as a back up.

 

[AGRIMAN]

Most diesel techs will check the batteries first and then the motor oil.
Since the injectors are hydraulically driven by the high pressure oil pump (HPOP) worn out or cheap oil will cause a hard start/no start condition.


I purchased the Auto Engiunity computer diagnostic software to work on mine. I have a 7.3, 6.0 and used to have a Ford Escape, dad has two ford gassers so the software has paid for itself a couple of times.

Also remember that the LPOP feeds the HPOP. If you can't build sufficient low pressure the engine will not start. I have seen it twice now where the low pressure pump housing (part of the front cover) was worn to the point that no low pressure could be built.