Ford 1700 clutch adjustment

[284 International]

The bearing holder won't move, even with a prybar, except forward. Going forward, though, it's against the fingers of the pressure plate.

The fingers are not even.One of the fingers has good clearance, one finger has very minimal clearance, and one is in contact with the bearing.

I've turned the clutch assembly all the way around several times. The bolts visible all appeared tight and consistent. I didn't try to tighten them. It's possible there is one a little bit loose, but it wasn't visibly slack. I can try that later tomorrow, but I don't think that's the issue. It's worth looking at, of course, to avoid splitting the thing.

If they aren't loose, is pulling the steering column a prerequisite for splitting the tractor anyway? That is, will it have to come off?

$200 is pretty reasonable for the clutch; I hope I don't need it, but it sure is looking that way. Between that and the starter, though, this is getting to be a much more expensive project than I hoped. That's the gamble of buying junky, non-running machines though! :laughing:

 

[jones6780]

Pulling the steering colum is not required to split the tractor and would not help your problem.

Russell

 

[284 International]

My thought/hope with pulling the column was to gain access to the top of the bearing carrier, and see if there was something easily correctable that was throwing things out of alignment. The pressure plate fingers are not consistent. One is touching, one is almost touching, and the other is well clear of the throwout bearing.

If that isn't useful, then there's no reason to waste the time.

 

[JC-jetro]

That ought to learn you a lesson not to do that anymore:laughing:
Joking aside it is reasonable if you put in the sweat equity. you do not need to take steering column out at all for the tractor split. The only reason I brought it up was that it was a way to inspect clutch. obviously you come to a stop where the holding is traveling aft no matter how much you pry. I just wanted to verify if it is sliding over to the front and back to the stop within the gap and not frozen. You confirmed my suspicion that the pressure plate is is not square to the flywheel or fingers are deformed some. Starter can be had for $400 from Felabay as well.

JC,


STARTER FORD TRACTOR 1000 1500 1600 1700 S12-62 | eBay

The bearing holder won't move, even with a prybar, except forward. Going forward, though, it's against the fingers of the pressure plate.

The fingers are not even.One of the fingers has good clearance, one finger has very minimal clearance, and one is in contact with the bearing.

I've turned the clutch assembly all the way around several times. The bolts visible all appeared tight and consistent. I didn't try to tighten them. It's possible there is one a little bit loose, but it wasn't visibly slack. I can try that later tomorrow, but I don't think that's the issue. It's worth looking at, of course, to avoid splitting the thing.

If they aren't loose, is pulling the steering column a prerequisite for splitting the tractor anyway? That is, will it have to come off?

$200 is pretty reasonable for the clutch; I hope I don't need it, but it sure is looking that way. Between that and the starter, though, this is getting to be a much more expensive project than I hoped. That's the gamble of buying junky, non-running machines though! :laughing:

 

[jones6780]

It may aid is visability but not to reach in and fix anything. Notice on my post with the photos, where the spring pulls the throw-out bearing back toward the transmission. If yours is pulled back all the way then it is at a hard stop and located where it is supposed to be. If it still touches the fingers and the bolts are tight, then I don't see any other option but to split.

Russell

 

[JC-jetro]

It may aid is visability but not to reach in and fix anything. Notice on my post with the photos, where the spring pulls the throw-out bearing back toward the transmission. If yours is pulled back all the way then it is at a hard stop and located where it is supposed to be. If it still touches the fingers and the bolts are tight, then I don't see any other option but to split.

Russell

About time you chimed in buddy , some of the pics are the ones I hijacked from your work. I agree it sounds more like the split.

JC,

 

[284 International]

I've started the process of splitting this thing. The flywheel bolts were all tight. This is going to be a big job, I'm afraid. Just pulling off the loader has taken me almost half an hour. I can't work on it for very long at a time, unfortunately.

I can't see this taking under 8 hours especially alone and on dirt, rather than smooth concrete. I'll take pictures as I go, but it will be awhile in coming. I doubt I'll have it back together, even if it's just an internal misadjustment, before the weekend is out.

Thanks again for the help and advice, I'm sure I'll be asking more questions soon!

 

[284 International]

Well, 2 1/2 hours into it, it's all apart. Here is what the pressure plate looked like:

You can see that the fingers are unevenly worn: One looks ok, one is worn partway through, and the other is worn far beyond what must be acceptable.


The pressure plate was the culprit, though I'm not sure why still. You can see the comparative unevenness:

The photos don't show it well, but it's almost 1/8" different.


The pressure plate face seems ok, looks and feels smooth with no ridge, or heat cracking or discoloration.

The flywheel surface is smooth, but looks uglier. There isn't a significant ridge on the wear area. A fingernail doesn't catch, and it's more perceptible as the transition from smooth to rough than anything.

So, hours into it, that's how far I've made it. Now, of course, I don't know what to do... :laughing: It's going to be a mess to put back together though!

 

[JC-jetro]

Great Job so far:thumbsup::thumbsup: it is always more fun to destruct before construct. I wondered if the pressure plate bolts were not torqued equally and this think was not perfectly parallel to the flywheel. The previous owner either rode the clutch all the time or adjustment was way off. he fingers look like chewed up pretty good. How did the bearing looked like. I just use emery and clean flywheel mating surface. Obviously you're going to change all the components including pilot bearing. Have y0u ordered the parts yet? The online source I linked reports pretty good and it includes all. I did not see they has alignment tool. If you order it from there asked for it and I'm sure they will throe it in with the order.

JC,


Can you take the pivot on the fingers off to expose the spring. I wonderd if all spring removed measure the same. I'd sure like to see a mcro picture of it. We need to do a CSI tractor here. I love to do postmortem on dead equipment any chance I get.

 

[284 International]

I've pulled the bearing and carrier off. The bearing felt dry and a little gritty, but not bad. It should be replaced, but it wasn't on the verge of failing, either. I'll measure and post photographs of the springs, probably tomorrow afternoon, when I get some time. I can't figure out why the pressure plate was so cockeyed, though.

My starter is supposed to have shipped today. There's a local place that may be able to provide the clutch parts. I'm going to talk to them tomorrow. I'm hoping to take advantage of the Thanksgiving holiday and get it up and operational then. Thanks again for the help.

 

[JC-jetro]

I've pulled the bearing and carrier off. The bearing felt dry and a little gritty, but not bad. It should be replaced, but it wasn't on the verge of failing, either. I'll measure and post photographs of the springs, probably tomorrow afternoon, when I get some time. I can't figure out why the pressure plate was so cockeyed, though.

My starter is supposed to have shipped today. There's a local place that may be able to provide the clutch parts. I'm going to talk to them tomorrow. I'm hoping to take advantage of the Thanksgiving holiday and get it up and operational then. Thanks again for the help.

Cool:thumbsup: It all pays off when you get them all done and ready to go. You'll be very happy for your 1700. it is a great little mule

JC,


ps. How about the Pilot bearing. You need to replace that too. Did the splines on input shaft look okay?

 

[284 International]

I've got new pilot and throwout bearings, a new friction plate, and a rebuilt pressure plate now, along with an alignment tool. The splines on the input shaft looked good. Now I have to hope it doesn't rain tonight or tomorrow, and that I can get a couple hours to button it back up. I'm in it another hour going to the clutch shop to get the new clutch components, so 3 1/2 hours total. I'm dreading the reassembly process. I'm not sure how I'm going to reapproximate the halves correctly.

 

[JC-jetro]

You are certainly making good time:thumbsup: she'll be purring along before too long.

JC,

 

[jimmysisson]

No dread if you keep in mind what needs aligned as you close in. Main shaft through TO bearing, then shaft spline through disc, then shaft nose into pilot bushing and case dowels/holes lined up. Heavy awkward parts yet delicate alignments. Don't get mad and you'll do fine. Some experienced help is a great benefit too. Good luck, don't rush.
Jim

 

[284 International]

Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately, I'm stuck doing it entirely on my own, and in the dirt. We'll see how it goes, though. It's just a matter of time, tools, and effort...

 

[284 International]

Well, it's back together. What a mess! I never want to do that again, but it sure was better than paying what the mechanic would have charged! Here is my new clutch assembly. I sourced it locally for what it would have cost to buy online and ship.

I learned that it's mandatory, at least for me, to pull the steering box in order to align the components. There was no way I could do it through the sight port on the transmission case. I would have saved myself 30 minutes of struggling uselessly had I just done that to begin with. It's entirely possible that with more help, or skill, it wouldn't be necessary.


I decided it's not fair to count the time going to get these parts against the clock. I'm in almost exactly 6 hours so far. Still to be done is to replace a couple rusty and slightly bent loader mounting bolts, install the front driveshaft, and fill it up with hydraulic fluid. Hopefully by then my starter will have arrived.

To install the driveshaft, I expect to have to pull the axle assembly, unless there is a shortcut I can't figure out. Does anyone have any tips?

Also, is there a torque specification for the bolts connecting the engine bellhousing to the transmission side? I don't want them to overtighten and break anything, but don't want them too loose, either.

 

[JC-jetro]

Well, it's back together.

To install the driveshaft, I expect to have to pull the axle assembly, unless there is a shortcut I can't figure out. Does anyone have any tips?

Also, is there a torque specification for the bolts connecting the engine bellhousing to the transmission side? I don't want them to overtighten and break anything, but don't want them too loose, either.

it seems you are making good progress. :thumbsup:Axle does not to be taken off, you need to do it at the front axle sliding coupler retainer. Good and tight probably is good. They are high grade bolts, so would not be worried about twisting them.

JC,


Pics, courtesy of Russell.

 

[284 International]

I'm a little slow, I guess. I couldn't figure out how to get the drive shaft into the tractor. The tube with machined down ends fits into notches on the transmission and the axle; I don't see any way to telescope things so that they fit. What moves to allow the covering tube in?

 

[jones6780]

I am not sure but the couplings do not give enough travel to install the drive shaft. I removed the 4 bolts for the axle housing pivot. There are dowel pins for alignment. Anyway removed 4 bolts, jacked up frame to clear and rolled wheels FWD to clear driveshaft legnth.

Russell

 

[JC-jetro]

I have not done the work myself as I do not have font wheel assist. I did look it it some time past in the FO-44(Repair manual) that the sliding coupling in the front once removed would slide far enough to remove.

I'd follow Russell's recommendation as he's done it successfully.

JC,