Ford 1700 Hydraulic Question

[square1]

I can't help noticing the "patina" on the spool valve and some other parts. It looks like there was water in there at one time and it sat for some time. What are the chances the spools / cylinders / pistons inside the valve are equally gunked up / corroded? Would soaking that whole assembly in some good parts cleaner and flushing it repeatedly with diesel or some solvent while gently working the input arm possibly be a worthwhile undertaking?

 

[Lawman17]

Alright well I put it back together and did as you requested Jethro and fluid gushes from the relief but no movement from the 3pt nor fluid to the cylinder head. I'm thinking worst case scenario now. But any insight would be great. Square1 yeah I noticed that as well. I'm to the point that if it is the spool valve I think I might be better off selling the tractor as is with no hydros as a replacement spool is about $300 from what I see online before I sink too much money into her considering it was a $500 non running tractor before I bought it but would love to keep her and make her live again.

 

[JC-jetro]

I can't help noticing the "patina" on the spool valve and some other parts. It looks like there was water in there at one time and it sat for some time. What are the chances the spools / cylinders / pistons inside the valve are equally gunked up / corroded? Would soaking that whole assembly in some good parts cleaner and flushing it repeatedly with diesel or some solvent while gently working the input arm possibly be a worthwhile undertaking?

You're probably right as this thing might have been soaking rain outside, flooded and all things causing all the gunk along with lack of maintenance. I think soaking the whole thing with strong solvent is wrong as inside the spool there are several o-ring and such that that will be completely destroyed.

JC,

 

[JC-jetro]

Alright well I put it back together and did as you requested Jethro and fluid gushes from the relief but no movement from the 3pt nor fluid to the cylinder head. I'm thinking worst case scenario now. But any insight would be great. Square1 yeah I noticed that as well. I'm to the point that if it is the spool valve I think I might be better off selling the tractor as is with no hydros as a replacement spool is about $300 from what I see online before I sink too much money into her considering it was a $500 non running tractor before I bought it but would love to keep her and make her live again.

Ok so far so good. Now just tell me what you did you find when you take the nut off on relief device ? did you see spring and the poppet ( it is a conical valve against a very stiff spring) and perhaps some shims.

did you put the relief back on the tractor and then tried to see if any oil comes out of lift cover oil hole?

from there we move to the spool valve as it is the only thing left to investigate. I can dig up a diagram for it later. you'll need several oring and such that once you open and clean the valves and spool requires replacement. There are many components in the spool valve requires very carefull disassembly and assembly after ward.

Jc,

 

[Lawman17]

Can you at least give me an idea of what a running 1700 with brand new front tires would be worth? I hate to sell but just don't see the worth in the investment. Thanks jethro for your help

 

[Lawman17]

Yeah found the spring 3 shims and the valve inside a sleeve. All cleaned and back together but still no fluid to the cylinder head. Scared to tear into anything as delicate as the spool valve but we will see

 

[JC-jetro]

Yeah found the spring 3 shims and the valve inside a sleeve. All cleaned and back together but still no fluid to the cylinder head. Scared to tear into anything as delicate as the spool valve but we will see

well,can't hurt it anymore, from where you are anything you do is in positive direction. since you managed to do what you have done and put back I see tacking the spool overhaul is doable. Might try a $10 package of assorted o-ring from HF and give it a go. I bought mine in pretty good shape relatively for about $3100.

did you say you buy it for $500 ? it is worth that much for scarp metal. imagine that your HYD pump is working and the salvage value of that is several hundred dollars for one part only.

JC,

 

[Lawman17]

Well I'm gonna consider tearing into it but check with a place here in town that works on hydraulics and see if they can rebuild it without charging an arm and a leg. Out of curiosity would you know of a schematic on the valve itself? I have a full manual but it doesn't break it down more than being a unit itself.

 

[JC-jetro]

Well I'm gonna consider tearing into it but check with a place here in town that works on hydraulics and see if they can rebuild it without charging an arm and a leg. Out of curiosity would you know of a schematic on the valve itself? I have a full manual but it doesn't break it down more than being a unit itself.

Yep, here you go. I also added lift arm cover and it's system. If you do it please take good close up pictures for future reference as I have not done that particular job myself. Consider lift control as a distribution for hyd oil with different porting and passage way. Pump flow constant and pressure is regulated by stiffness of main relief device downstream of main positive displacement gear type pump with variable flow based on RPM. Once you use pressurized oil to fill a cavity (piston, PSIxarea =lbf) then the rest of oil has to be diverted some where(diffy) or the pump would destroy itself or relief has to open. The setting of the relief is higher than lift system need. In your case I guess some o-ring is damaged, or a port is blocked causing the oil to be diverted to diffy and not where you need it. By process of elimination we gone from your pump to lift control valve so I reckon issue is at the lift control valve.

JC,

 

[trmechapt]

I just took the valve assy. off a 1710 this eve. It looks just like the same valve that is on the 1700. I have not checked on the parts site yet to verify. I have the same problem on this one that I'm working on for a friend. It has been awhile since I've had a 1700 hyd. system apart. The problem is in the valve somewhere; stuck unload valve etc. I will have to look in a repair manual to be sure. I will let you know when I find out.
Gary

 

[Lawman17]

Thanks I'm not exactly a mechanical genius and if you have any tips trick etc. I would greatly appreciate it as I think I may end up with a headache after getting it apart

 

[JC-jetro]

Thanks I'm not exactly a mechanical genius and if you have any tips trick etc. I would greatly appreciate it as I think I may end up with a headache after getting it apart

Take it nice and slow, draw things up as you dissemble, take pictures , identify nuts , bolts, screws where they go perhaps by poking holes on a card board the same pattern and place the screws in appropriate holes. It take a bit of a time but end result would be much better. If I turned wrench to make a living probably I would not do what I suggests. I really like small magnetic SS trays you can buy from HF. I just try to keep things organized so if nothing else I can put them back together like how I found them originally.

JC,

 

[trmechapt]

I removed the valve assy and removed the top valve where you have circled. I think that might be the unload valve. When I blew air in to the inlet port, air came out. when I put it back together air wouldn't come out any more. This eve. I put the assy. back on the tr. to try it and it worked. All you really have to do is clean everything in the assy. and change the oil. It will probably work.
GAry

 

[Lawman17]

Well I finally got it partially torn apart but the top valve is stuck pretty good in there (think the o-ring is busted and wedging it). Any good advice to get it out without completely tearing something apart and damaging it?

 

[JC-jetro]

Can you identify the part # per diagram I gave you? can you post a picture of partial dis assembly and point on the part. Metal part can not be damaged by penetrating oil but o-ring can be damaged. I use a bit of oil and let it soak. perhaps I put a bit of heat (very little) and use a small mallet with plastic head and try to tap the valve out. whatever you do, do as gently as you can. Make sure not scratch the spool and metal part as they will be ruined for good. if you need to take the rust off use finest emery cloth a nsome oil to remove rust on internal parts. Try some compressed oil if you can.

JC,

 

[trmechapt]

The valve at the top of the assy is held in with a plug and spring. it should slip out. I have stuck snap ring pliers in to grab the inside of the valve (the kind you squeeze to open snap rings) and try to turn and pull on it. Just keep spraying penetrating oil.

 

[Lawman17]

Alright got it back together and working. Under a load it starts jetting and bouncing real bad. Any thoughts?

 

[JC-jetro]

Alright got it back together and working. Under a load it starts jetting and bouncing real bad. Any thoughts?

What happened to detailed pics and dis assembly pics and details.

Can't just seek an "answer" without giving more details, it is difficult and time consuming to just guess an answer. How you did the repairs and your feedback is essential so "educated guess" can be dispensed.

JC,

 

[Lawman17]

Got pics and all just haven't been able to sit and detail them. Trust me not something I want to do again. Everything works just starts jumping under load. Not sure if this would be the relief valve or something else

 

[JC-jetro]

Got pics and all just haven't been able to sit and detail them. Trust me not something I want to do again. Everything works just starts jumping under load. Not sure if this would be the relief valve or something else

You need to monitor pressure with an oil filled gauge to get some clues. Need to be more descriptive. What does lowering and raising functions with or without load on 3 point arm.