Hey thanks for the replies everyone When l bought the tractor their was no temp gauge on it , there was a amperes gauge. I wonder if they new about it and swapped gauges to cover the overheating issue. I had the tractor for a year already so no use crying now. Installed a temp gauge awhile back and it really doesn't get hot until until you work it. Seem to get antifreeze coming out of the overflow after running it I'm going to do a leak down test this weekend and see what l find. Hope to send some pics
FORD 1700 NEW HEAD INSTALLED
- Thread starter geozeitl
- Start date
arto98607
Veteran Member
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- Southwest WA
- Tractor
- Kubota F3060, Grasshopper 721D, Ford 1310, John Deere 440 ICD, John Deere 300
Interesting.
My Ford 1310 does also burp small amounts of coolant when the engine is worked hard, but has never overheated in the 23 years I have owned it.
I need to check the coolant level regularly & add a small amount maybe couple of times a year.
I wish there was an overflow bottle in it, but the space is very limited in-between the radiator & engine and have so far not figured where and how to mount one.
There must be some high quality small overflow tanks available.
Anyone know of good small overflow bottle solution / brand?
My Ford 1310 does also burp small amounts of coolant when the engine is worked hard, but has never overheated in the 23 years I have owned it.
I need to check the coolant level regularly & add a small amount maybe couple of times a year.
I wish there was an overflow bottle in it, but the space is very limited in-between the radiator & engine and have so far not figured where and how to mount one.
There must be some high quality small overflow tanks available.
Anyone know of good small overflow bottle solution / brand?
JC-jetro
Elite Member
I told you guys , I specialize in "redneck solution" when necessary. Do you have a plastic jar of Peanut butter? clean a used plastic jar, drill a hole in he lid just slightly smaller that overflow rubber hose, shove the hose in the hole, extend it in the jar all the way to the bottom, fill 1/3 of the jar with coolant, and use my favorite thing" bailing wire" to attach it to the engine or frame frame. Please look at the pics below. Any overflow would be caught there when the radiator cap spring lift up to burp and when the engine is cold it sucks the same amount right back in the radiator.That is the original jatr from 10 years ago and I've got plenty of more jars where the original came from
Geozeitl,
1- my tractor also runs on the cool side. it is okay. take some cardboard about 12x12 inch and it between radiator and screen . That would help to raise the temp up in the cold condition. I always have it installed in the winter and it would bring my temp needle to 1/2 way mark and my tractor appreciates it.
2-Get yourself a non-contact infra-red temperature reader and measure temp and compare with needle location. Record it so you would have a base line for you temp sending unit an and the gauge to calibrate or have metal picture of what the gauge is saying. On most gauges you do not have a calibration pod to adjust calibration.
3-Overflow is fine. Look at my comment above to arto98607
4- glad you bled the air completely in the injector line. You can adjust throttle level . If you follow the link from accelerator pedal to injector you can see where you can adjust up or down.b Let me know and i can post pic on that.
JC,
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arto98607
Veteran Member
- Joined
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- Southwest WA
- Tractor
- Kubota F3060, Grasshopper 721D, Ford 1310, John Deere 440 ICD, John Deere 300
I told you guys , I specialize in "redneck solution" when necessary. Do you have a plastic jar of Peanut butter? clean a used plastic jar, drill a hole just slightly smaller that overflow rubber hose, shove the hose in the hole, extend it in the can all the way to the bottom, fill 1/3 of the jar with coolant, and use my favorite thing" bailing wire" to attache it to the engine, frame. Please look a the pic below. Any overflow would be caught there when the radiator cap spring lift up to burp and when the engine is cold it sucks the same amount right back in the radiator.That is the original can from 10 years ago and I've got plenty of more can where the original cam from
...............Zip................
JC,
Thank you JC-jetro
I will take a closer look at that and have done a similar solution many years ago on my Grasshopper Diesel mower.
geozeitl,
Sorry, not trying to hijack your thread!
Below is shown my solution for oil pressure & temperature gauge mounting a long time ago.
Coolant burping starts at around 220 F, but this gauge location allows for easy monitoring (also when running a PTO chipper).
It's always an indication of clogged factory "bug screen" in front of the radiator.
Cheers,
JC-jetro
Elite Member
I like you gauge set up. My OEM still works just fine , but you made a good mod. I don't have a loader though.
For reference these are my resistance measurement and coincident gauge needle position and associated temps taken by infra red thermometer fr my 1700.
Tractor Operating temps:
Cold: sender=690 ohms, T housing = 98 , Radiator= 98 , Head=98 , Exh Man=98
Operating temp: sender=140 ohms, T housing = 172 , Radiator=170 , Head=174 , Exh Man=192
1/8" , right of middle: sender=92 ohms, T housing = 196 , Radiator= 196 , Head= 197 , Exh Man=210
Hot
1/8" left of H: sender=66 ohms, T housing = 210 , Radiator= 210 , Head=212 , Exh Man=250
For reference these are my resistance measurement and coincident gauge needle position and associated temps taken by infra red thermometer fr my 1700.
Tractor Operating temps:
Cold: sender=690 ohms, T housing = 98 , Radiator= 98 , Head=98 , Exh Man=98
Operating temp: sender=140 ohms, T housing = 172 , Radiator=170 , Head=174 , Exh Man=192
1/8" , right of middle: sender=92 ohms, T housing = 196 , Radiator= 196 , Head= 197 , Exh Man=210
Hot
1/8" left of H: sender=66 ohms, T housing = 210 , Radiator= 210 , Head=212 , Exh Man=250
arto98607
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2014
- Messages
- 1,248
- Location
- Southwest WA
- Tractor
- Kubota F3060, Grasshopper 721D, Ford 1310, John Deere 440 ICD, John Deere 300
Thanks,
My 1310 dash is all original and did not have a temp or oil gauges only warning lights, and I did not want to change the dash!
It's been a fine little tractor and I am going to repaint the hood one of these days.
I have new decals & paint already, just a matter of other priorities!
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Good Sunday morning, well l did a leak down test yesterday afternoon, the results were at about 80psi air pressure, going threw the injector holes no leaks at the exhaust on both cylinders bad leaks at the air intake on both cylinders, l did double check the pistons were TDC. Also had air coming out of cylinder head 2 when testing cylinder 1. No air coming out of the dip stick hole or oil cap hole Thank God for that. I did have the valves re ground not sure why the intake is leaking like that on both Also the head gasket maybe bad. I bought it on line at Weavers compact tractor parts. I should of bought it right from a Ford/NewHolland dealer instead. Going to take the head off today and see. Will get some pics out when it's off
JC-jetro
Elite Member
well, sorry to hear that but glad you found the culprit. There is no way to ignore that. Before you take the head off, did you try to re torque the head bolts in order to possibly eliminate the air leak out of cylinder #2?. Is there a possibility they grounded the valve too much or mixed and match exh/int valve from cylinders. The time I had do a valve job on my very old car I made a diagram of valve layout on card board and poked holes to match. I then ground the valves and made sure they are going exactly where they went originally. At least , you don't have to deal with ignition and injector timing doing it again. One last thing was the surface of head flat and true checking by a ruler? any warpage there due to heat? I was wondering if shimming the spring might make the valve tighter against the head, just don't know how you can do without taking the head off dropping the valve in he cylinder.
JC
Happy Friday, sorry for the long delay. Having issues getting my password renewed on here and was ready to pull my hair out. Well, pulled the head off and found another crack at the the precombustion chamber. Like I said before, only ran it for a total of 40 minutes and it was not overheated. Also previous when I did the leak down test had a lot of air coming out of the air intake. I took it back to the machinist that reground the valves. The next day he called and said the intake valve holes were a slight oval shape, how did that happen? Turns out he or someone never did a pressure test on it after the reseating of the valves to check for leakage. He really apologized and reseated the valves and tested it, all good and why me? I sent the head back to the company that did the welding on it for the crack repair. at least it had a six month warranty on their work. I did not hear back from them yet. One thing I did notice, when removing the injectors they were lose. I know they were tight when I put them in with that copper washer. Is their a torque spec for them, my manual doesn't say anything. Looking for any ideas why it would crack again and why the injectors would be lose. Have some pics of the new cracks, notice all the carbon on the pistons and in the cylinders. Thanks again for all your insight
