Ford 1700 (new to me)

[Soundguy]

look the casting over for any stress cracks real good while you have the rails off.

soundguy

 

[nsmithnd]

Frame is back from the welding shop. Looks like they did a good job (wish I could weld like that). Now I need to find the time to get some paint on it and check out the block and re-assemble it. Work-work always seems to get in the way of fun-work !!

-Neil

 

[Soundguy]

that rail does look good. steel is much easier to repair than cast iron...

soundguy

 

[nsmithnd]

Cleaned up the frame and battery tray and gave them a quick spray of primer and Ford blue. Bolted it all back together (new bolts, blue loc-tite and torqued to specs). Installed the new solenoid. Started right up !! Let it warm up and changed engine oil and filter and air cleaner oil bath (yuk).

Then on to the trans/axle fluid. Fluid that came out of the trans plug looked pretty good (was wondering if I was wasting my time). Then removed the axle drain plug. First a bit of crystal clear water, then black oil, then gray sludge. Pulled the filter/screen, more sludge (decided it wasn't a waste of time after-all). Thankfully no metal shavings or anything, just tiny bits of Teflon tape. Cleaned the screen and reached in and pulled what sludge I could get to, put it all back together and re-filled with fresh trans/hydro fluid.

Now for the questions. After changing the trans/axle fluid, I fired it back up and was going to cycle the 3-pt. It would go up but not down. And when full up, if I moved the lever into the notch at the top, the loader hydraulic line became very active and started jumping around. (loader is disconnected and hydro line from the tractor loops back to the tractor). Guessing this is the relief valve kicking in and probably needs to be adjusted??

And back to the 3-pt not lowering. Could not for the life of me figure out why it would not go down. Just now went back out and found that the Flow Control Valve was full clock-wise. Backed it out a bit and the 3-pt started dropping. Is this normal (that the full CW position would "hold" the 3-pt regardless of the lever position)?

Next phase, fab a battery hold-down, new battery, some minor electrical. Most everything is unplugged and dangling. Blown fuses. Broken hazard light switch. But the horn works !! Then the hood will go back on and I'll move on to the loader brackets.

-Neil

 

[Soundguy]

yes.. that valve is preventing the 'exhaust' for the 3pt cyl.. that's why it lowered after you loosened the knob.

soundguy

 

[mostly_gas]

After you shut the tractor down doe the 3 PT arms stay up or bleed down?
I had the seal on the 3PT lift piston fail and the 3 point would bounce with the lever up in the notch. The seal was so far gone the arms would drop in a few minutes. Replacing the seal fixed both problems and was cheap and easy. :thumbsup:

 

[Soundguy]

minutes. . heck.. that's bragging time. I've seen ford N's that the arms drop as soon as your foot hits the clutch..

soundguy

 

[JB4310]

My 1700 3pt bleeds all the way down overnight. It can be a problem when you start up if those arms got down into other equipment.
I almost knocked my stored BH over cause one of the arms got under a part of it.

JB

 

[Wolfy]

That notch is meant for auxillary hydraulic impliments, like a wood splitter. The lever should not be placed in the notch in normal use. Just raise the lever until it touches the notched bracket. And yes, the adjustment knob will hold up the 3pt arms. Mainly, it changes the lowering speed of the arms.

 

[JC-jetro]

I can leave a 700 lbs brush hog hanging back there for a week and never drops. I always lower my implement on some stacked lumber to neutralize pressure in the lift cylinder/piston area. no reason to expose only one lift piston seal lips under pressure during storage.

to the OP, you spool valve might be leaking by if you have replaced piston seal. There is also a possibility of shock relief that is not holding tight. Checking that takes only a few minutes and eliminate the high $ spool valve.


JC,

the hole in the left of the pic is the shock relief pressure that does an internal relief in the diffy.



The ball on the right is the check valve plus the spring.




release the pressure from the system by lowering 3 point completely, open up the bolt on the left of side of cylinder head (from the operator side), remove and inspect. I hope you either have a out of round ball, broken spring or better just some obstruction keeping tight fit.

ps. rate of drop has absolutely noting to do with leakage.