Ford 1700 Range Selector

[wv4x4]

This is my first post but I have been reading for awhile on here. I have a ford 1700 which sometimes can be a headache but it keeps me busy. The range selector shifter became stuck in 4 today and I have yet figured out a way to get it out. I'm sure somebody here has an idea on what is going on. I am somewhat mechanically inclined and watched my grandfather fiddle with these tractors most of my life. I guess I just didnt play close enough attention while working on the transmission. Any help is greatly appreciated!

John

 

[JC-jetro]

This is my first post but I have been reading for awhile on here. I have a ford 1700 which sometimes can be a headache but it keeps me busy. The range selector shifter became stuck in 4 today and I have yet figured out a way to get it out. I'm sure somebody here has an idea on what is going on. I am somewhat mechanically inclined and watched my grandfather fiddle with these tractors most of my life. I guess I just didnt play close enough attention while working on the transmission. Any help is greatly appreciated!

John

John,

Welcome to TBN blue,

I have encountered the same issue you had. The fix was pretty simple. Look at the pic below. You'll see two bolts for each range and shifter handle. Down below there is one detent ball and spring right under neath the bolt as the second diagram shows. Shifter rod moves horizontally below the cover back and forth and detent ball keep it locked in place. Simply loosen that bolt, you might want to inspect the spring for damage and the ball for roundness. Once you loosened the bolt should be able to shift, once shifted you can tighten the bolt.

JC,

 

[wv4x4]

Thanks! I will give it a try when I get home.


When running around 2000rpm the tractor starts getting hot but if you run it around 1500rpm it is fine. It has a new water pump and belt I think there must be something I am overlooking here.

 

[JC-jetro]

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When running around 2000rpm the tractor starts getting hot but if you run it around 1500rpm it is fine. It has a new water pump and belt I think there must be something I am overlooking here.

You should be able to run @ 2500 rpm for extended time and hover in the middle of the temp gauge, hot day and it'll creep up a bit higher. The gauge can be checked for calibration, never yet needed to figure out temp sending unit resistance for normal operation but it can be found to check the gauge. I'd first check to see if front radiator screen is clean and fins are not obstructed. I'd check the fluid level... if okay I then drain about 1/2 gallon to check the t-stat. I check the stat for blockage and do boiling water, ice bath treatment to see if it works and replace if necessary. If I'd change the t-stat, then for good measure I just might flush the whole system as well.

JC,

 

[Pudelpointer]

John,

Welcome to TBN blue,

I have encountered the same issue you had. The fix was pretty simple. Look at the pic below. You'll see two bolts for each range and shifter handle. Down below there is one detent ball and spring right under neath the bolt as the second diagram shows. Shifter rod moves horizontally below the cover back and forth and detent ball keep it locked in place. Simply loosen that bolt, you might want to inspect the spring for damage and the ball for roundness. Once you loosened the bolt should be able to shift, once shifted you can tighten the bolt.

JC,

Hello, new to the site and a new (to me tractor owner) I have a recently purchased a Ford 3415 and appear to be having the same issue as this thread mentions. The photo's that were displayed on the one response are no longer available. Is there anyway to retrieve those old photo's? Any information is appreciated. Thank you.

 

[JC-jetro]

Hello, new to the site and a new (to me tractor owner) I have a recently purchased a Ford 3415 and appear to be having the same issue as this thread mentions. The photo's that were displayed on the one response are no longer available. Is there anyway to retrieve those old photo's? Any information is appreciated. Thank you.

Here You go! I had a ton of pics that got zapped to oblivion as I posted them in a picture sharing site. Should have used TBN. It is a huge work to get them all posted in right posts. If you need more pics, identify what you need and I will post them. I have a ton of the pics from all the work I have done to my 1700.

JC,

 

[Pudelpointer]

Thank you very much for your time and efforts! It looks like I’ll have to take the cover off and get in there. I’ll let you know what I find. I have the service and parts manuals. Thank you-
TW

 

[JC-jetro]

Thank you very much for your time and efforts! It looks like I’ll have to take the cover off and get in there. I’ll let you know what I find. I have the service and parts manuals. Thank you-
TW

This information that i posted more than anything was instructional and to see how the mechanism work. "DO NOT" take the cover off yet. You do not need to do that. Next to each shifter there is bolt. You see the springs and bolts lined up in picture # 1. All you need is to just for now loosen the bolts to remove some spring tension an then try to manipulate the shifter to see if you can move it. if that did not work then you can remove the bolts to release more tension. Under the bolt (4 total) there are four holes that hold the spring against the detent ball. Detent ball keeps the shifter boss in a position so the gear would not jump out and slip. Once you get the bolts removed try to manipulate the shifter. I am confident that would be the extent you need to work the shifter lose. if that does not work and last resort is to remove the cover to inspect the balls. I only took the cover off out of curiosity and wanted to see the gears and the shifter and the shape they were in.

JC,

PS. the picture show ford 1700 shifter but the general idea is the same. why don't you post a picture of it. Alternately you can go to NH website to download the parts breakdown for your particular tractor.

 

[Pudelpointer]

Hello,

I got both the Service Manual and the Parts Manual. The setup on my 3415 is a little different than your 1700 but I believe the concept is similar.

I haven’t made much progress at this point. I played with the plates a little bit but no go. I’ve enclosed a few photos.

Pic1) Shows the issue at hand (#23 on Pic3). Lever Change ‘plate’ stuck in current position.

Pic2) are the schematics of the issue

Pic3) parts of listed schematics

I should note there is a bolt hidden from view behind the lever change plate and I’m not sure what (if any) roll this bolt may play in resolution of current issue?

I’m not hellbent on going inside, but not sure what direction to take. I could possibly remove the wire (#34 on pic3) and #24 the (pins) from both shift plates (17&18) but concerned I may mess things up worse. In your experience/expertise-Am I on the right path trying to manipulate the noted outside Parts or should I bite the bullet and go inside and try to alleviate from that ang

Your knowledge is very much appreciated!

-Todd

 

[JC-jetro]

This is certainly different that what I have as they have not identified ball and detent spring to keep the gears from jumping in the diagram. That function might be within how the brackets are designed, I am just guessing here. if the range is in stuck position now, then I would raise the rear axle and with tractor in it's highest gear try to turn the wheel by hand in two direction and observe movement of the bracket. I will try to change the range with the rear wheel off of the floor. If you have FWA then I would disengage it for the rear wheel to be able to rotate. if that did not work then I would take cutter pin #8 on bracket #23 and see if I can free it up. if that did not work , then I would take the cutter pin on bracket #20 off and see if I can manipulate #23 and #22 by hand pressure only. I would not use any pliers doing so. I would probably have someone else rotating the rear wheel by hand to see if I can free things up or rotate those bracket on its rotational axis. When I get a chance tonight I will go to NH website to see inside of the transmission and see what the shifter mechanism looks like inside the transmission. If you get a chance to do what I suggested today I will check back TBN tonight. good luck.

JC,