ford 1700

[JC-jetro]

Just to make sure the screen filter is the one that the main hydraulic oil comes into and the screen filter is held in by 4 bolts. The filter is about the size as a water filter from a well correct?

Dirty inlet screen:

Breather cap:

Hand hole with rubber cover to adjust double clutch (live pto) system. There is a drain plug for the clutch housing. Normally should be dry, oil in there and it can be engine or transmission.

Hand hole with the rubber cover removed.

JC,

 

[rmaccy]

Hey guys, I just bought a 1700, can anyone recommend a place to buy a manual?, I don't know what would be the best for maintainence and general repairs. also, I bought it with a 5 foot tiller, 5 foot brush cutter and 5 foot box blade. I'm going to sell the tiller and brush cutter, is the box blade the right size or should I trade down to a 4 footer? and is a 6 foot finishing mower too big?

I'd appreciate any help...

Ray

 

[tulenutn2o]

I have a manual I bought from farm store a few years back. It's out in the shop. I believe it is the blue and grey one. Got it at central tractor.PM me if interested.

 

[JC-jetro]

Hey guys, I just bought a 1700, can anyone recommend a place to buy a manual?, I don't know what would be the best for maintainence and general repairs. also, I bought it with a 5 foot tiller, 5 foot brush cutter and 5 foot box blade. I'm going to sell the tiller and brush cutter, is the box blade the right size or should I trade down to a 4 footer? and is a 6 foot finishing mower too big?

I'd appreciate any help...

Ray

Ray,

IT FO-44 is the manual that you want. it is not the factory manual but it's good enough for many normal everyday repair and maintenance. Google it on line to find the best price. Your local TSC might have it although it is not their most popular manual. If you call your local TSC they'll order for you (no shipping) if you are close by to pick up. I bought mine from TSC at around $20 +. There is a ton of stuff on 1700 on the Blue Owning and Operating so most of your potential questions might have already been answered. Congrats on your purchase and welcome to TBN Blue.

JC,

 

[rmaccy]

Thanks for the welcome, this site has been very helpful, I look forward to learning more from everyone.

Ray

 

[B Glynn]

I had no idea there were so many of these tractors still around. I have an '82 model that in 4 years, has never given me a bit of trouble. Most of it's use is with a 5' shredder (Bush Hog) and 6' back blade for maintaining my long driveway. Bought it used from a guy in Texas so it was fairly rust free. Its all there except for the grille and I do have one headlight for it.

My question to all you 1700 folks: Am I wasting my time searching websites for a grille? Dealer was no help.

It's a sweet tractor except for that. Any Ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thx

 

[JC-jetro]

I had no idea there were so many of these tractors still around. I have an '82 model that in 4 years, has never given me a bit of trouble. Most of it's use is with a 5' shredder (Bush Hog) and 6' back blade for maintaining my long driveway. Bought it used from a guy in Texas so it was fairly rust free. Its all there except for the grille and I do have one headlight for it.

My question to all you 1700 folks: Am I wasting my time searching websites for a grille? Dealer was no help.


There is nothing special about the design of the grill. If I were you , I'd be looking for a piece of expanding metal , aluminum or steel and a pair of snips I'd make myself a grille. I'd probably not do the decorative bend and bump in front although not very difficult to do but it's not worth the effort. In the back it is only screwed to the front trim. The original grille is stamped at the factory. cutting two opening for the light should be pretty simple. around $20 and you should be able to get it done.

It's a sweet tractor except for that. Any Ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thx

There is nothing special about the design of the grill. If I were you , I'd be looking for a piece of expanding metal , aluminum or steel and a pair of snips I'd make myself a grille. I'd probably not do the decorative bend and bumps in front although not very difficult to do but it's not worth the effort. In the back it is only screwed to the front trim. The original grille is stamped at the factory. cutting two opening for the lights should be pretty simple. Around $20 and you should be able to get it done.

JC,

 

[mnfarmr]

Hey guys, I just bought a 1700, can anyone recommend a place to buy a manual?, I don't know what would be the best for maintainence and general repairs. also, I bought it with a 5 foot tiller, 5 foot brush cutter and 5 foot box blade. I'm going to sell the tiller and brush cutter, is the box blade the right size or should I trade down to a 4 footer? and is a 6 foot finishing mower too big?

I'd appreciate any help...

Ray

These guys are a great source for hard to find manuals.

Ford 8N, Farmall Cub, Original Operators, Technical, and Service Manuals, and Parts Catalogs for dozers, tractors, combines, implements, road graders.

 

[1210man]

Does the ford 1700 have live pto. I have just looked at a 1981 ford 1700 which is listed in my local paper with 1805 hrs on it and the owner stated it had live pto. I have not seen it in person yet, just looking for some info if this tractor has a two stage clutch or independent live pto. Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks.

1210 man.

 

[JC-jetro]

Does the ford 1700 have live pto. I have just looked at a 1981 ford 1700 which is listed in my local paper with 1805 hrs on it and the owner stated it had live pto. I have not seen it in person yet, just looking for some info if this tractor has a two stage clutch or independent live pto. Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks.

1210 man.

I know live PTO (dual clutch) was an option but yet to see and hear one that said his had that option. I don't recall any of the 1700 owners here ever said he is got live pto on 1700. I don't thing "independence" hydraulically operated pto with single main clutch was ever an option. I just call and specifically ask or go there and check it out. Do you know how to check it?
You can remove the rubber cover on the transmission housing and that can ols reveal single or dual stage clutch.

JC,

 

[1210man]

Jc:

Thanks. I questioned the fact that he said it had live pto. I left a message for him to contact me back, however, he hasn't replied as of yet. Yes, I do know how to check. So, the dual clutch was an option, but no one on the forum has one. Interesting. He said this was owned by a cementary and they had a three point hitch finish mower on the back. It does not have a draw bar. So, the motor has 1805 hrs on it but probably not hard hrs since it was used for mowing. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks.

1210 man.

 

[JC-jetro]

Jc:

Thanks. I questioned the fact that he said it had live pto. I left a message for him to contact me back, however, he hasn't replied as of yet. Yes, I do know how to check. So, the dual clutch was an option, but no one on the forum has one. Interesting. He said this was owned by a cementary and they had a three point hitch finish mower on the back. It does not have a draw bar. So, the motor has 1805 hrs on it but probably not hard hrs since it was used for mowing. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks.

1210 man.

1210,

Why mentioning a draw bar? is there any significance there? I suppose it has the lift arm and the top link? are you saying that the lift system was not used much?. I suppose long hrs of easy mowing can add up quick. Now, is this guy works for the cemetery or he bought it from them. I have seen on 1700 that had 3800 hrs on it and still worked pretty well. guys here have them with up to 2500 hrs and no one complained about bad performance. couple of guys ended up overhauling the engine for different reasons but neglect could have been the culprit. any pics? and how much is he asking. condition of the rig can leave tell tale sign. I'd give it a good once over. Major parts can be expensive (internal engine) but the rest can be pretty easy to be had and it is extremely cheap to operate it.

JC,

 

[1210man]

It has lift arms, however, I find myself sometimes needing a draw bar to pull things around. He said it came from a cementary and he does not work for one. He is asking two thousand dollars. From the pictures it looks almost new. No bent tin, turf tires are in excellent shape, all lights and guages work and he states it does not smoke. I'm looking at it due to the fact it would be a good sized tractor to put a snowblower on to get into some tight areas I have. The price just seems too good to be true and I'm waiting to hear from him concerning the pto (does it have a double clutch or not).

 

[JC-jetro]

It has lift arms, however, I find myself sometimes needing a draw bar to pull things around. He said it came from a cementary and he does not work for one. He is asking two thousand dollars. From the pictures it looks almost new. No bent tin, turf tires are in excellent shape, all lights and guages work and he states it does not smoke. I'm looking at it due to the fact it would be a good sized tractor to put a snowblower on to get into some tight areas I have. The price just seems too good to be true and I'm waiting to hear from him concerning the pto (does it have a double clutch or not).

You can buy a draw bar from TSC under $25 but you'll need a top link connection or something to keep the draw bar from rotating. Price is very good, for single clutch, it would be marvelous for double clutch jobby. Is your snow blower pto powered? a contraption like below and a hitch ball is all you need. I'd give a good once over to make sure everything is up and up before I buy it. It sound way too good.

Jc,

 

[DaHo]

Have an early 80's model 1700 4WD. It has been a workhorse. I was looking to buy a 3 point wood splitter attachment but didn't see anywhere to hook up to the hydraulics on the tractor. Anyone know how this is done?

 

[JC-jetro]

Have an early 80's model 1700 4WD. It has been a workhorse. I was looking to buy a 3 point wood splitter attachment but didn't see anywhere to hook up to the hydraulics on the tractor. Anyone know how this is done?

Welcome to TBN Blue

You'd need a hyd block as pictured to have a have a supply and a return path for your wood splitter.



On the cheap, probably you'd be able to cut the discharge pipe close to the pressure relief device, and tee off for a compression type connection. For return you can tie it to a return port to the diffy directly as the pic below. I personally would not cut in the discharge pipe and would rather get a proper block.







Notice the banjo fitting on the 3rd picture. I myself looked to see if I can get a longer banjo bolt and fitting to branch off right at the existing connection and have not been able to find it.

JC,

 

[chumly2071]

Welcome to TBN Blue

You'd need a hyd block as pictured to have a have a supply and a return path for your wood splitter.



On the cheap, probably you'd be able to cut the discharge pipe close to the pressure relief device, and tee off for a compression type connection. For return you can tie it to a return port to the diffy directly as the pic below. I personally would not cut in the discharge pipe and would rather get a proper block.







Notice the banjo fitting on the 3rd picture. I myself looked to see if I can get a longer banjo bolt and fitting to branch off right at the existing connection and have not been able to find it.

JC,

Wondering if using the longer banjo bolt would cause problems, since the pressure would follow path of least resistance. I think I'd run a power beyond joystick, with the power beyond port powering the 3 point circuit, and use the pipe threaded port shown as the dedicated return for the loader valve.

 

[JC-jetro]

Wondering if using the longer banjo bolt would cause problems, since the pressure would follow path of least resistance. I think I'd run a power beyond joystick, with the power beyond port powering the 3 point circuit, and use the pipe threaded port shown as the dedicated return for the loader valve.

True enough chumly on the path of least resistance. Flow at the banjo at the best is pretty turbulant so I don't think it is a major issue here. I have seen double banjo being used on different applications and seen catalog on them. Power beyond kit is a superior choice, mine was a budget option.

JC,

ps. Now below is the super economy remote right of the lift cover. it just take a 3/8" hyd hose for under $10 from TSC. it does have the added advantage of using main lift spool valve without buying another spool. Obviously both 3 point and the added implement will be operated by the same valve. if nothing is on the 3 point then that extra hose acts as dedicated power beyond. not a great set up but totally utilitarian.

 

[ridger]

i bought a new 1700 ford over 30 years ago has been an awesom very dependable tractor.hard to find parts for it.23h.p. after30 yrs. of heavy use inow need a steering box assy. anybody know where to look

 

[whodat526]

a salvage yard like gulfsouth equipment in baton rouge la. or western kentucky tractor parts in kentucky cant think of the city name