lampasas
New member
Oil Pressure censor cost about $24. They had to order the part, it took about a week to get. Easy to install.
Allee
Bronze Member
Is that a love affair of "hate to love" or "love to hate?" I enjoy my 1700 but it's high mileage and has an amatuer for a mechanic... me. Sounds like JC got one sweet deal. I paid a little more for mine (first time buyer) but then I also got a loader, mower, disks and ripper/scraper. I'm still playing with the wiring. It worked once but I attempted to reconnect a loose wire and it's never been the same.
pclausen
Veteran Member
I'm in the market for a small tractor for tasks where my Deere is just too big/heavy. I came across a 1700 sitting at my Deere dealer actually. Here are some pics:
Dealer went to put new front tires on it, but the front wheels were so rusted through, that he had to put on new wheels as well. So it has brand new front wheels and tires. It only has 389 hours on it, but has sat for a long time. Only other issue is that the original exhaust is gone and it just has a straight pipe now, but it looks like I can get a replacement muffler for about 100 bucks. Since putting on the new front wheels/tires, dealer has a little over $2700 in it. He's will to sell it to me for $2800 since I have purchased a lot of stuff from him over the years. Engine runs great and everything works. Does it sound like a good deal? Are the rear wheels likely to also be about rusted through? I don't know if the rears are loaded or not, but I plan to empty them if they are as I'm looking for making it as light as possible.
I'm quite familiar with the 1xxx Fords. My dad had a 1910 that he purchased new and it was with the family until last year when he passed away. I probably had about 100 hours of seat time on it. Here it is just before I sold it for $7500 back in 2011.
Dealer went to put new front tires on it, but the front wheels were so rusted through, that he had to put on new wheels as well. So it has brand new front wheels and tires. It only has 389 hours on it, but has sat for a long time. Only other issue is that the original exhaust is gone and it just has a straight pipe now, but it looks like I can get a replacement muffler for about 100 bucks. Since putting on the new front wheels/tires, dealer has a little over $2700 in it. He's will to sell it to me for $2800 since I have purchased a lot of stuff from him over the years. Engine runs great and everything works. Does it sound like a good deal? Are the rear wheels likely to also be about rusted through? I don't know if the rears are loaded or not, but I plan to empty them if they are as I'm looking for making it as light as possible.
I'm quite familiar with the 1xxx Fords. My dad had a 1910 that he purchased new and it was with the family until last year when he passed away. I probably had about 100 hours of seat time on it. Here it is just before I sold it for $7500 back in 2011.
JC-jetro
Elite Member
Wow, what a nice looking 1910, I wished you kept that. 1700 looks a bit rough on the outside but it appears to be just cosmetic. you got plenty of thread left on the tires and 4 wd to boot that is hard to come by. Down the road if you decide to take the fenders off, clean and repaint should be no big deal. I'd take the rubber hand hole on the right side of bell housing out and take peek inside with a flash light. You want to look for the sign of moisture or oil coming from engine rear seal or transmission. You can inspect how much clutch lining is left and condition of throw out bearing. I would not worry about the exhaust as TSC will have generic close enough to it. You might have use the adapter plate with 4 screw from the previous one and weld up a new stack. They really are tough little tractors and if you don't have major engine, hydraulic (pump) or fuel injection pump then the rest will be easy to fix. We have just about a ton of information on this site particularly on 1700. I know for me I'd never part with my 1700 as it is light and nimble to go "where no tractor has gone before"
. specially with 4wd to boot.
JC,
. specially with 4wd to boot.JC,
pclausen
Veteran Member
Thanks JC. I went checked it out yesterday and it was in great mechanical shape. Fired right up (after preheating), and did not smoke at all. Was quite peppy driving it around the lot and the 3pt hitch, PTO, clutch etc all worked flawlessly. 4WD also worked good. The only issue I found was the temp gauge was stuck on high, but hopefully that is just a loose wire or a sending unit issue.
Popped the hand hole cover and took a peak inside. Looked good, no rust and plenty of clutch lining left. And it did indeed have brand new front wheels and tires in it. Still had stickers on them. Tach gauge worked, so I'm pretty sure this tractor truly only has 389 hours on it. The controls were exactly the same as on dad's 1910, which had 1300 hours on it when sold, in perfect working order.
I think this will be great little tractor to get in and out of places to small for my John Deere, and working around the garden. So I cut the dealer a check and plan to go pick it up tomorrow!
Popped the hand hole cover and took a peak inside. Looked good, no rust and plenty of clutch lining left. And it did indeed have brand new front wheels and tires in it. Still had stickers on them. Tach gauge worked, so I'm pretty sure this tractor truly only has 389 hours on it. The controls were exactly the same as on dad's 1910, which had 1300 hours on it when sold, in perfect working order.
I think this will be great little tractor to get in and out of places to small for my John Deere, and working around the garden. So I cut the dealer a check and plan to go pick it up tomorrow!
JC-jetro
Elite Member
That's nice. The sender unit wire is most probably broken or disconnected. Unlike others sending unit normal position (engine off) is pegged high, as soon as you put the key in ignition and on preheat or start it the temp needle will go to zero. That'll show that the wiring is intact. As soon as engine warms up then it will climb up according to engine heat. At any rate , even if the t-gauge is bad will no no huge issue really easy to find some replacement for it. it is good the bell housing is dry and no rust. I have few thread started that went thru a lot of major stuff that';s worth reading if you hopefully get the rig. We got 1700 pretty well covered here?
JC:thumbsup:
Allee
Bronze Member
I thought I had my wiring problems solved but another monster has raised it's head. The battery still doesn't seem to be charging and when I put a booster on it the amps start to decline and the stater won't budge in the least. What's up?
Allee
Bronze Member
I may have posted in the wrong location. My battery won't charge even thought the idiot light goes out and if I attach a battery booster the amps steadily decline even with the booster and won't kick in the least. I've recharged the booster and when I attach it it still shows less then ten amps and steadily declines from there. Do I possibly have a short. If I jump it with my truck I have to let it charge for a while and it will usually give a slow kick and starts. After I park it and turn the back key on the alt and oil light are on bright but when I went out this morning they were barely lit and the starter wouldn't click at all. I'll charge the battery this morning but is there anything else I might be missing?
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JC-jetro
Elite Member
Why don't ya take your battery to an automotive part store and have them load test it. You just might have a bad cell or battery.
JC,
Allee
Bronze Member
My battery won't charge, even thought the idiot light goes out and I attach a battery booster, the amps steadily decline and the stater won't kick in the least. I've recharged the booster and when I attach it it still shows less then ten amps and steadily declines from there. Do I possibly have a short. If I jump it with my truck I have to let it charge for a while, it will give a slow turn usually start. Last night I parked it and turned the key back on, not attempting to start it, and the alt and oil light were bright and shiny. When I went out this morning they were barely lit and the starter wouldn't click at all. I'll charge the battery this morning but is there anything else I might be missing?
