ford 1700

[eclecticeleanor]

Can Anyone tell me how to put my steering Box Back together. I Disassembled it to put New Bearings in it & now I can not get it back together. It seems to bind or Not go together. What am I Doing Wrong?
Any Help would be Appreciated...Thanks

 

[JC-jetro]

Can Anyone tell me how to put my steering Box Back together. I Disassembled it to put New Bearings in it & now I can not get it back together. It seems to bind or Not go together. What am I Doing Wrong?
Any Help would be Appreciated...Thanks

Have not done that particular repair. Did you put a witness mark on the final shaft connected to steering arm? look at the attachment below. I think your problem is with the part #2,sector shaft and the balls or initial location of part#3 shaft in reference to #2. Is it bound up in one direction or both?

JC,

 

[eclecticeleanor]

I Think it is too. I am going to mark it & try it w/o bearings, Until I get it right. I mashed 2 sets of bearings, trying to get it right. I Don't know if #2 should be centered on #3 or totally at the bottom of the shaft. It seems like Center should give me Both left & right turns w/o binding. Thanks for the help. I had that print out from the Newholland.com web page. Finding the bearings for cheap is my next problem. The dealer wants $60 Each for a
1 7/16" OD dia Race bearing. Little junky Bearings.

 

[JC-jetro]

I Think it is too. I am going to mark it & try it w/o bearings, Until I get it right. I mashed 2 sets of bearings, trying to get it right. I Don't know if #2 should be centered on #3 or totally at the bottom of the shaft. It seems like Center should give me Both left & right turns w/o binding. Thanks for the help. I had that print out from the Newholland.com web page. Finding the bearings for cheap is my next problem. The dealer wants $60 Each for a
1 7/16" OD dia Race bearing. Little junky Bearings.

If you can identify the bearing spec the outfit linked below might be able to get the same bearing pretty reasonable. If yo have a local distributor you can simple take the old bearing there and they'll match it up for you.

JC,



Industrial Supplies | Bearing Distributor | Material Handling | MRO | Safety | Training

 

[mcnizle]

I just found a 1700 with a FEL for $4600. It also comes with a rake attachment. It has 1425 hours. Good deal or not? From the pics, the tires look good.

This will be my first tractor so I have a lot to learn. I will use it for mowing about 2-3 acres and plowing a 1100' drive in the winter.

 

[Wolfy]

It is a good deal. A very good tractor.

 

[JC-jetro]

I just found a 1700 with a FEL for $4600. It also comes with a rake attachment. It has 1425 hours. Good deal or not? From the pics, the tires look good.

This will be my first tractor so I have a lot to learn. I will use it for mowing about 2-3 acres and plowing a 1100' drive in the winter.

It is a great deal with the fel. is it a well maintained tractor?any pics?

JC,

 

[Codino]

Hello to everybody, i own a ford 1700 and a'm trying to find the cylinder head for it, if you have some information i'll be very gratefull

 

[lampasas]

I found and bought one as a New Holland dealership.

 

[Codino]

Where? how much did it cost you??
Thanks

 

[lampasas]

Oil Pressure censor cost about $24. They had to order the part, it took about a week to get. Easy to install.

 

[Allee]

Is that a love affair of "hate to love" or "love to hate?" I enjoy my 1700 but it's high mileage and has an amatuer for a mechanic... me. Sounds like JC got one sweet deal. I paid a little more for mine (first time buyer) but then I also got a loader, mower, disks and ripper/scraper. I'm still playing with the wiring. It worked once but I attempted to reconnect a loose wire and it's never been the same.

 

[pclausen]

I'm in the market for a small tractor for tasks where my Deere is just too big/heavy. I came across a 1700 sitting at my Deere dealer actually. Here are some pics:

Dealer went to put new front tires on it, but the front wheels were so rusted through, that he had to put on new wheels as well. So it has brand new front wheels and tires. It only has 389 hours on it, but has sat for a long time. Only other issue is that the original exhaust is gone and it just has a straight pipe now, but it looks like I can get a replacement muffler for about 100 bucks. Since putting on the new front wheels/tires, dealer has a little over $2700 in it. He's will to sell it to me for $2800 since I have purchased a lot of stuff from him over the years. Engine runs great and everything works. Does it sound like a good deal? Are the rear wheels likely to also be about rusted through? I don't know if the rears are loaded or not, but I plan to empty them if they are as I'm looking for making it as light as possible.

I'm quite familiar with the 1xxx Fords. My dad had a 1910 that he purchased new and it was with the family until last year when he passed away. I probably had about 100 hours of seat time on it. Here it is just before I sold it for $7500 back in 2011.

 

[JC-jetro]

Wow, what a nice looking 1910, I wished you kept that. 1700 looks a bit rough on the outside but it appears to be just cosmetic. you got plenty of thread left on the tires and 4 wd to boot that is hard to come by. Down the road if you decide to take the fenders off, clean and repaint should be no big deal. I'd take the rubber hand hole on the right side of bell housing out and take peek inside with a flash light. You want to look for the sign of moisture or oil coming from engine rear seal or transmission. You can inspect how much clutch lining is left and condition of throw out bearing. I would not worry about the exhaust as TSC will have generic close enough to it. You might have use the adapter plate with 4 screw from the previous one and weld up a new stack. They really are tough little tractors and if you don't have major engine, hydraulic (pump) or fuel injection pump then the rest will be easy to fix. We have just about a ton of information on this site particularly on 1700. I know for me I'd never part with my 1700 as it is light and nimble to go "where no tractor has gone before". specially with 4wd to boot.

JC,

 

[pclausen]

Thanks JC. I went checked it out yesterday and it was in great mechanical shape. Fired right up (after preheating), and did not smoke at all. Was quite peppy driving it around the lot and the 3pt hitch, PTO, clutch etc all worked flawlessly. 4WD also worked good. The only issue I found was the temp gauge was stuck on high, but hopefully that is just a loose wire or a sending unit issue.

Popped the hand hole cover and took a peak inside. Looked good, no rust and plenty of clutch lining left. And it did indeed have brand new front wheels and tires in it. Still had stickers on them. Tach gauge worked, so I'm pretty sure this tractor truly only has 389 hours on it. The controls were exactly the same as on dad's 1910, which had 1300 hours on it when sold, in perfect working order.

I think this will be great little tractor to get in and out of places to small for my John Deere, and working around the garden. So I cut the dealer a check and plan to go pick it up tomorrow!

 

[JC-jetro]

Thanks JC. I went checked it out yesterday and it was in great mechanical shape. Fired right up (after preheating), and did not smoke at all. Was quite peppy driving it around the lot and the 3pt hitch, PTO, clutch etc all worked flawlessly. 4WD also worked good. The only issue I found was the temp gauge was stuck on high, but hopefully that is just a loose wire or a sending unit issue.

Popped the hand hole cover and took a peak inside. Looked good, no rust and plenty of clutch lining left. And it did indeed have brand new front wheels and tires in it. Still had stickers on them. Tach gauge worked, so I'm pretty sure this tractor truly only has 389 hours on it. The controls were exactly the same as on dad's 1910, which had 1300 hours on it when sold, in perfect working order.

I think this will be great little tractor to get in and out of places to small for my John Deere, and working around the garden. So I cut the dealer a check and plan to go pick it up tomorrow!

That's nice. The sender unit wire is most probably broken or disconnected. Unlike others sending unit normal position (engine off) is pegged high, as soon as you put the key in ignition and on preheat or start it the temp needle will go to zero. That'll show that the wiring is intact. As soon as engine warms up then it will climb up according to engine heat. At any rate , even if the t-gauge is bad will no no huge issue really easy to find some replacement for it. it is good the bell housing is dry and no rust. I have few thread started that went thru a lot of major stuff that';s worth reading if you hopefully get the rig. We got 1700 pretty well covered here?

JC:thumbsup:

 

[Allee]

I thought I had my wiring problems solved but another monster has raised it's head. The battery still doesn't seem to be charging and when I put a booster on it the amps start to decline and the stater won't budge in the least. What's up?

 

[Allee]

I may have posted in the wrong location. My battery won't charge even thought the idiot light goes out and if I attach a battery booster the amps steadily decline even with the booster and won't kick in the least. I've recharged the booster and when I attach it it still shows less then ten amps and steadily declines from there. Do I possibly have a short. If I jump it with my truck I have to let it charge for a while and it will usually give a slow kick and starts. After I park it and turn the back key on the alt and oil light are on bright but when I went out this morning they were barely lit and the starter wouldn't click at all. I'll charge the battery this morning but is there anything else I might be missing?

 

[JC-jetro]

I may have posted in the wrong location. My battery won't charge even thought the idiot light goes out and if I attach a battery booster the amps steadily decline even with the booster and won't kick in the least. I've recharged the booster and when I attach it it still shows less then ten amps and steadily declines from there. Do I possibly have a short. If I jump it with my truck I have to let it charge for a while and it will usually give a slow kick and starts. After I park it and turn the back key on the alt and oil light are on bright but when I went out this morning they were barely lit and the starter wouldn't click at all. I'll charge the battery this morning but is there anything else I might be missing?

Why don't ya take your battery to an automotive part store and have them load test it. You just might have a bad cell or battery.

JC,

 

[Allee]

My battery won't charge, even thought the idiot light goes out and I attach a battery booster, the amps steadily decline and the stater won't kick in the least. I've recharged the booster and when I attach it it still shows less then ten amps and steadily declines from there. Do I possibly have a short. If I jump it with my truck I have to let it charge for a while, it will give a slow turn usually start. Last night I parked it and turned the key back on, not attempting to start it, and the alt and oil light were bright and shiny. When I went out this morning they were barely lit and the starter wouldn't click at all. I'll charge the battery this morning but is there anything else I might be missing?