Ford 1710 4WD

[jinman]

Approach the pile, electro-shift down to turtle, lock the differential, and when the bucket is full, curl it up, electro-shift back to rabbit, and tap the reverse pedal as you raise your load. It's so easy, it must be illegal./w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

JimI

 

[Anonymous Poster]

<font color=blue>...Approach the pile, electro-shift down to turtle...</font color=blue>

Hi Jim,

I think that's where most of the guys with the different class Boomers{Hydro 30's and under} run into a problem , not controlling the hydro pedal properly, they are in "high or rabbit" range and tend to run out of snot before they should...

If that "electro-hydro" range-shift feature was available on those other classes, I don't think you'd hear any complaints...

 

[jinman]

John, one of the hardest things I had to learn about the hydro is to gently press on it and wait for the torque to "come on" until the tires start to spin. It's not like the gas pedal on a car. If you press harder, you are doing the same as shifting to a higher gear. Once you learn the technique, you are in for hours of good productive fun./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

JimI

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Re: Ford 1710 & Hydro Driving Technique

<font color=red>...one of the hardest things I had to learn about the hydro is to gently press on it and wait for the torque to "come on" until the tires start to spin. It's not like the gas pedal on a car. If you press harder, you are doing the same as shifting to a higher gear. Once you learn the technique, you are in for hours of good productive fun...</font color=red>

Jim,
You said that so well, it was worth repeating for all to learn that "hydro technique", that New Holland engineers have said, once learned... your productivity will increase immediately and ten fold on a hydro compact tractor...

A number of guys have absolutely no reference, as this is their first and only tractor experience, and not having this reference, they can end up using the hydro-tractor "abnormally" for years thinking it was "normal"... until they use that "secret technique" that you and others have discovered... /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[jinman]

Re: Ford 1710 & Hydro Driving Technique

<font color=blue>...your productivity will increase immediately and ten fold on a hydro compact tractor...
</font color=blue>

...right after the epiphany. How true./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

JimI

 

[MikePA]

In my Two Hours Of Fun post I mentioned relocating a large pile of stall cleanings with my FEL. I did all this work in first gear (I) on my TC25D. First gear was great for moving into the pile and loading the FEL, but slow for moving to the new location. Since the new location wasn't all that far away, I did not bother shifting into II or III. Am I reading your post correctly, that I could have done this work in second (II) or third (III) with the proper use of the pedal? What mechanical/hydro changes take place when you switch between gears?

 

[Youare]

I looked at a 1986 Ford 1710 with FEL this past June at a NH dealership, the tractor had 1200 hrs. and needed new tires, the dealer would replece the front but not the rears. It came with a 50/50 30 day warantee. The dealer was asking a firm price of $9,800.00 for this tractor. Prices seem to be a little higher in the Northeast than they are in other parts of the country.

As far as 4WD drive problems there are only two that I know of and they really are not problems. The front drive shaft has a splined coupling that connects to the front differencial. This coupling is the weakest piece in the front drive train, something has to be and it might as well be an inexpensive part. More often than not if the front wheels don't drive properly the coupling is likely split. I believe the major cause of failure comes from too much driving on hard surfaces in 4WD.

The only other drive problem I have heard of happened when the owner decided to let the tractor coast down a hill building up a bit of speed. The centrifical force caused a retaining spring clip to come off inside the differencial which allowed some pieces to become disconnected. Another reason why coasting down hill is not a good thing.

The 1710 is a great tractor.

Randy

 

[jinman]

Mike, I'm not sure about your TC25D, but on my TC45D I have two ranges (Low and High) that I shift with a lever on the left side control panel. This is a physical gear range change in the transmission and you have to come to a complete stop to shift. While I am in low range or high range, I have an electric speed change between "rabbit" and "turtle" on the right side control panel or (the easiest) thumb actuated switches built into the joystick. These buttons engage a solenoid which changes the angle of the "swash plate" on the hydraulic motor to produce the two speed ranges. I normally approach the pile in low-rabbit and change to low-turtle as the loader engages the dirt. If I need more traction, I'll engage the differential lock. In this mode, I lightly press on the hydrostatic forward pedal and wait on the torque to build enough to push the bucket into the pile or spin the tires. When my bucket is full, I curl it up and as I move my foot to the reverse pedal, I tap the rabbit button with my thumb and I am in low-rabbit range again so I can move more swiftly. I am not in the highest range, because I have found it to be good for mowing or long transits between locations, but too fast for moving with a loader full of dirt on uneven ground.
Again, I don't know how your gearing ranges are selected on your TC-25, but the biggest issue to learn about getting pulling torque out of a hydro-tranny is to not press on the pedal as if it were the gas pedal in a car. Let's say that two of the same tractors were to be attached back-to-back and the engines set to the same rpm in the same gear range. The operator of tractor 1 uses a slight deflection on the forward hydro pedal and the tractor 2 operator uses full deflection on the forward hydro pedal. Tractor 1 will easily pull tractor 2 backwards. It's the same as a car in low gear pulling against a car in high gear: low gear wins. So no matter what hydrostatic range you are in, the most pulling torque for that range is just slight deflection of the pedal.

I hope this is clear and I didn't just "muddy the waters". /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

JimI

 

[MikePA]

Yep, very clear, thanks! The set ups are different on our tractors, but how to use the pedal is the same. I'll try this out the next time I'm using the FEL. Basically, easy on the pedal, it's not an accelerator.

 

[John_Mc]

Re: TC25D HST vs Range

Mike -

I have the TC33D. Other than the engine, Our tractors are pretty much identical. When you shift the Range lever between I, II, or III, you are changing mechanical gears (almost like in a car with manual transmission). When you depress the hydro pedal, you are changing the position of the swash plate in your hydraulic pump. This varies the displacement of the pump (how much fluid it pumps per revolution). The lower the volume it is set for, the "easier" it is for the pump to pump it and for the engine to turn the pump (more torque, less chance of lugging engine). Higher volume = more fluid sent from the pump to the hydraulic motor that turns your wheel = motor and wheels turn faster.

On the TC45D that Jim (jinman) referred to, you have two mechanical ranges, which act just like the 3 ranges on your 25D. The electrical ranges actually change the position of the swash plate in the hydraulic MOTOR (not the pump as the hydro pedal does). In concept, it's kind of like being able to change the rear-end ratio on a car or trucks drive train, in addition to changing the transmission gear ratio. Since it's just moving a plate in a hydraulic motor, you don't need to come to a stop or depress a clutch, you just hit the button, and a solenoid changes the plate position.

As to whether you could have done your loader work in II range... id don't know... try it out and see. I do believe tha the hydraulic pump in your HST "likes" to have some RPMs (runs more efficiently). Running in II when moving very slowly MAY cause some losses (meaning you might not have as much power available when moving at a low speed in II as you would at the same low speed and the same engine RPM in I). I suppose to a point you could make up for this by upping your engine RPMs. I'm not positive about this whole "hydro pumps like RPMs" business, so hopefully others will correct me if I'm wrong.
John