Ford 1710 - Slow and Weak Rear 3pt Lift - Help!

[JFS2295]

Glad you got all the junk out of your tractor. It sounds like that one axle was not drained for quite some time.

When you say the FEL works fine, if it is able to lift a good bucket of soil or weight then the pump is still OK. The issue then sounds like it's within the 3pt itself. The hydraulics are a series layout, with the fluid going from the pump to the FEL then to the 3pt, draining to the sump.

 

[RMJ22]

After running the tractor today and draining the filter several times, the lift still does not lift a load. I think its going to take another fluid change to get things right. Still waiting to see if it works. . .meanwhile the fluid $$ are adding up!!

Also, yes the loader works at idle, just a little slow.

 

[Marveltone]

Also, yes the loader works at idle, just a little slow.

They all work slowly at idle. Crank 'er up to 2500 RPM (it'll be fine, you're rated for 2700 RPM) and see if it lifts anything significant. Grab a bucket full of dirt, gravel, anything heavy. Report back.

Joe

 

[RMJ22]

The loader will lift me easily at moderate RPMs and will break out a load of dirt with ease.

 

[RMJ22]

Well, since I cleaned the hydraulic reservoir with diesel, and the lift is not working, I'm tempted to change the fluid again for fear that it is now contaminated with diesel, but I want to make sure to get every drop of the current oil out of the system.

I've heard of using an air compressor to blow the system clean but I don't know how to do this. Do I just drain all the oil and put the compressor hose nozzle in the fill hole and blow it out? How much psi should I use?

 

[JFS2295]

If the FEL is working fine then I don't think diesel contamination is your problem.

 

[RMJ22]

At this point I'm thinking the rear is probably going to have to be broken into. I have a mechanic coming over tomorrow to have a look. Keeping my fingers crossed its a simple fix, but I fear a pocket-book assault coming on

 

[JC-jetro]

At this point I'm thinking the rear is probably going to have to be broken into.

Why do you think the rear (do you mean differential?) need to be broken into?

JC,

 

[RMJ22]

Not the differential, I'm referring to the rear lift cylinder. And an update: my mechanic friend suggested I order a valve, its the one on the housing where the speed knob is located (on the left side). He found that one of the two little metal balls and a spring is missing. Plus, there is some etching on the side of the sleeve. Not sure if this is going to fix it, but its definitely part of the problem to the tune of $236! We're also replacing some of the gaskets while we are in there.

Its a starting point, still trying to not have to get under the housing cover. We're thinking if its not a valve it may be a bad seal on the cylinder itself.

 

[JC-jetro]

Not the differential, I'm referring to the rear lift cylinder. And an update: my mechanic friend suggested I order a valve, its the one on the housing where the speed knob is located (on the left side). He found that one of the two little metal balls and a spring is missing. Plus, there is some etching on the side of the sleeve. Not sure if this is going to fix it, but its definitely part of the problem to the tune of $236! We're also replacing some of the gaskets while we are in there.

Its a starting point, still trying to not have to get under the housing cover. We're thinking if its not a valve it may be a bad seal on the cylinder itself.

The piston seal can be inspected in less than 20 minutes by taking the lift cylinder head (6 bolts). The piston seal ins under $10 to replace. Rate of drop valve leaky or otherwise can not effect lifting in anyway.

JC,