Ford 1900

   / Ford 1900 #1  

Brmosh

New member
Joined
May 16, 2012
Messages
14
Location
Nebraska
Tractor
Ford 1900
Well I tried to get my clutch unstuck. Now I'm in the process of splitting it. I have the housing bolts off and everything off. I can't seem to get it broke apart. Is there any bolts that would still hold the flywheel and the clutch together? I don't want to pry to hard on the housing for fear it might break.

What should I do?

Thanks.

Brmosh
 
   / Ford 1900 #2  
Well I tried to get my clutch unstuck. Now I'm in the process of splitting it. I have the housing bolts off and everything off. I can't seem to get it broke apart. Is there any bolts that would still hold the flywheel and the clutch together? I don't want to pry to hard on the housing for fear it might break.

What should I do?

Thanks.

Brmosh

Are you saying that the pressure plate is stuck to flywheel after you removed all the bolts that attaches it to flywheel? other than two mating surfaces there should be nothing in between. do you have double or single clutch? I'd use some penetrating oil and spray all around where pressure plate
is mating the flywheel. No issue with getting oil on clutch plate as you will remove and clean off flywheel. I might use a bot of heat using heat gun and not open flame to see if that helps. I'll try to go around and pry using a block of wood so not to scuff up the flywheel or break a gear tooth. If you're replacing the pressure plate along with disk then damaging/ deforming the pressure plate is not an issue.

JC,
 
   / Ford 1900 #3  
I think you are saying that you can't split the tractor. Did you disconnect the Hyd lines down the right side? Will have to drain the Hyd fluid. What about the steering rod, starter?

Russell
 
   / Ford 1900
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Is there bolts I need to take off on the flywheel to pull the tractor apart?
 
   / Ford 1900 #5  
Flywheel had nothing to to do with with engine tractor split. Do you even see the flywheel yet? is your question about splitting the tractor or stuck flywheel:confused::confused:

JC,
 
   / Ford 1900
  • Thread Starter
#6  
I have it apart. It took alittle work but it's split. The clutch is rusted together. Do I need to have the flywheel worked on?

Thanks for all the help in the posting.

Brmosh
 
   / Ford 1900 #7  
I have it apart. It took alittle work but it's split. The clutch is rusted together. Do I need to have the flywheel worked on?

Thanks for all the help in the posting.

Brmosh

Do you have damage on the flywheel? scoring , scratches, grooves and such. You need to inspect it all after you took the pressure plate assembly off of the flywheel. I hope you do not need to machine the face of the front wheel. do you have single or double clutch jobby? do you have live pto?

Make sure to get new pilot bearing as well, along with new pressure plate disk and throw out bearing. I found some Fleabay source that had the replacement part pretty inexpensively.

JC,
 
   / Ford 1900
  • Thread Starter
#8  
The face of the flywheel has rust on it. That's it. The clutch is a dual clutch. I will check the web site you refered to. Thanks
 
   / Ford 1900 #9  
Do you have a manual for the tractor? Do you have a double clutch? Dis-assemble the clutch from the pressure plate and flywheel. Inspect the metal surfaces for hotspots, uneven surfaces. Use 220 wet or dry sandpaper and a flat block to remove any rust. Measure the thickness of the clutch disk. Inspect and decide what to replace.

Post photos and we could help with that decision.

Russell
 
   / Ford 1900
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Thanks for the information. I am ready to put the tractor back together. How do I get the splines to line up so I can slide the tractor together? I have tried to eyeball it but I'm have trouble get it together. It is a double clutch. I don't have an alignment tool. I can get the front and back of the tractor within about 2 inches but it won't slide together.

Thanks.
 
   / Ford 1900 #12  
Thanks for the information. I am ready to put the tractor back together. How do I get the splines to line up so I can slide the tractor together? I have tried to eyeball it but I'm have trouble get it together. It is a double clutch. I don't have an alignment tool. I can get the front and back of the tractor within about 2 inches but it won't slide together.

Thanks.
\

There is a plastic aligning tool that matches the spline for your clutch and fits like the input shaft in the pilot bearing hole. A lot of places put that in as part of clutch overhaul kit. If you don;t have it Google it for your tractor and I'm sure some Fleabay seller would have it for a nominal fee.once you have the clutch disk aligned then you would torque the flywheel bolts. I have heard people used a wooden dowel pin with success. you want the center of of the pilot bearing hole to line up with the center.

JC,

Below is a listing that shows the alignment tool but it pictures a single clutch. Are you sure you have a double clutch jobby?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-compact-tractor-model-1000-1900-clutch-kit-FS1014-/190332801686
 
   / Ford 1900 #13  
and if nothing else.. the tractor has an alignment tool... the input shaft.. :)
 
   / Ford 1900 #14  
yep, input shaft can be removed from the transmission housing to line up the disk. You'll need to put the input shaft in the same way you found it. Too much extra work in my opinion. Do you have a pic of your separated tractor and busted clutch? just curious:)
 
   / Ford 1900 #15  
only reason I mention it is i always repalce input shaft seal when doing a clutch.. so.. you got to work on it anyway.. :)
 
   / Ford 1900 #16  
only reason I mention it is i always repalce input shaft seal when doing a clutch.. so.. you got to work on it anyway.. :)


Good point. Do you normally change the seal even if you don't have any seepage. I look at the inside of my tranny and it is bone dry, nothing coming out from crankshaft or transmission input shaft seal. I still got 90% of oem clutch disk thickness left after 30 years... fancy that !! :):)

JC,
 
   / Ford 1900 #17  
Good point. Do you normally change the seal even if you don't have any seepage. I look at the inside of my tranny and it is bone dry, nothing coming out from crankshaft or transmission input shaft seal. I still got 90% of oem clutch disk thickness left after 30 years... fancy that !! :):)

JC,

30yr old seal might start weeping tomorrow, and a split is still a few hours of work. since the seal is cheap, I do it as cheap insurance. If I had to resplit a machine after a short period for some reason i wouldn't again re-do the seal.. but if it's been a while ( decade? ) since i split something.. id' seal it )

soundguy
 

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