Ford 1920 clutch Help needed

[Dataway]

I'm probably going to have to do a similar job on my 1715 soon.

I was wondering...the shaft you used as a pilot (input shaft into the tranny?). Did this pull all the way out of the tranny side (back) of the tractor? Then you used it as the alignment tool, then reinserted it into the tranny?

Thanks, love the thread and the pics.

My T.O. bearing is starting to make some noise when I press the clutch pedal...can't feel it in the pedal yet...but the noise is there...worse at higher rpms.
JohnnyB

 

[JC-jetro]

I'm probably going to have to do a similar job on my 1715 soon.

I was wondering...the shaft you used as a pilot (input shaft into the tranny?). Did this pull all the way out of the tranny side (back) of the tractor? Then you used it as the alignment tool, then reinserted it into the tranny?

Thanks, love the thread and the pics.

My T.O. bearing is starting to make some noise when I press the clutch pedal...can't feel it in the pedal yet...but the noise is there...worse at higher rpms.
JohnnyB

Johnny,

I'm sure Mike will chime in soon. I'll attach a clutch alignment tool for your benefit. it is self explanatory when you see it. let us know if you have any question. You remove the tool before you put two ends of splitted tractor together. The tool lines up clutch disk splines with the splined on flywheel/crankshaft and installation of clutch pressure plate secures it in place.

JC,

Ps. You probably need to do what Mike has done down the road. Release bearing noise is a nuisance but can not damage anything else but itself and or fingers on the pressure plate. You will want to change the pressure plate anyway when you split the tractor. In other word I'd buy all that I need and do it when it fails or in cool fall days. You also have dual stage clutch.

 

[MIkeWard]

I'm probably going to have to do a similar job on my 1715 soon.

I was wondering...the shaft you used as a pilot (input shaft into the tranny?). Did this pull all the way out of the tranny side (back) of the tractor? Then you used it as the alignment tool, then reinserted it into the tranny?

Thanks, love the thread and the pics.

My T.O. bearing is starting to make some noise when I press the clutch pedal...can't feel it in the pedal yet...but the noise is there...worse at higher rpms.
JohnnyB

Yes I used the input shaft and it came all the way out of the tranny. You just need to pull the two halves of the tractor far enough apart to get it out. In my 1920 it was almost 3 foot long.
I was glad I did this because I was able to grease it up after using it as an alignment tool. Just be sure not to use it as a lever. Having the extra room between halves also let me really get into the housing for the release bearing and clean it up.
You should also replace the spring for the release bearing - about $5.00 from dealer.

By the way my local NH dealer parts guy told me no one else had pilot bearings and release bearings. I called Messicks and they had them from HY-Capacity for half the almost price!
My pilot bearing was fine but I replaced it anyway- it cost $14.00 from Hy-Capacity.
The release bearing was totally shot - It made a bad crunching noise from all the rust and dust in the bearings. It cost $54.67.

Good luck. I have to say I enjoyed working on the clutch splitting the tractor and it wasn"t nearly as hard as I imagined it to be!

MIke

 

[Dataway]

Mike, JC,
Thanks much for the explaination. Sound pretty much the same as most clutches. Not looking forward to it, but it has to be done.

BTW...when I bought it the dealer said he just replaced the clutch. If it did so, he did it without splitting the tractor at the tranny, as the bolts still have factory paint sealing them. However the engine has been out....wonder if they could have done it that way. ( I'm being optomistic)
JohnnyB

 

[JC-jetro]

Mike, JC,


BTW...when I bought it the dealer said he just replaced the clutch. If it did so, he did it without splitting the tractor at the tranny, as the bolts still have factory paint sealing them.

Johnny,

I should like to shake your dealers hand for the job
I yet to see and hear any " non invasive laprosopic method" for a main clutch disk replacement without splitting the tractor.

He must be very good Indeed.

JC,

 

[MIkeWard]

Mike, JC,
Thanks much for the explaination. Sound pretty much the same as most clutches. Not looking forward to it, but it has to be done.

BTW...when I bought it the dealer said he just replaced the clutch. If it did so, he did it without splitting the tractor at the tranny, as the bolts still have factory paint sealing them. However the engine has been out....wonder if they could have done it that way. ( I'm being optomistic)
JohnnyB

JohnnyB if you look at this picture
See the bright clean blue paint on the metal behind the clutch...
That's where the bolts are that must be removed to get to the clutch
even if the dealer did it by removing the engine.
If the paint was still unbroken on those bolts the clutch could not have been touched.

Mike

 

[Dataway]

Hmmm... I think I was looking at bolts on the square tunnel section. The bolts at the rear of the engine have obviously been removed on my machine. I thought it split at the front of square section right above where the release bearing is.

Any hints on how long I should wait before doing the bearing? It's not squealing yet, not rough at the pedal....but I do hear a noticable low level growl when I put any pressure on the clutch pedal. Which increases in volume if RPM is higher. Is also more difficult to get into gear (clutch IS adjusted properly), much more so at off idle rpms. Almost leads me to believe the bearing might be fozen and the just spinning on the pressure plate fingers....which would tend to keep things rotating that shouldn't be rotating..... I think. ( I think a lot.... I don't KNOW much
JohnnyB

 

[theghoul]

Looks like I may need to do this with my 1920 this fall. Does anyone have a source for an alignment tool? I saw a few on ebay, but their descriptions are vague.

 

[MMH]

Good post - I learned allot about clutch replacement!

 

[MIkeWard]

this is the rear portion if the driveshaft for the front axel
removing the 4 bolts will allow access to the drift pin that has to be tapped out to allow the shaft to drop away so the tractor can be split