Ford 2000 carb issues

[GA2000]

Just joined up here, and been doing a lot of searching and reading. Have learned a lot, but still looking for answers on some carb issues on my 1963 Ford 2000, 4 cyl gas. Sorry for the long read...

Have all the electrical issues taken care off: new plugs, wires, ign coil, points/condensor, dist cap. Had the gas tank removed, boiled/cleaned/sealed. Only non ethanol gas in it since then. Did all of this, just after I bought the tractor, and it ran great for several weeks. Started running rough, and started messing with the carb. It is a MS carb. I thought I had it narrowed down to the float valve needle sticking, and not letting fuel into the carb.

Put a (small?) rebuild kit in it. New float valve needle and seat, and new float as well. After putting the carb back on, the tractor started right up, and ran better than it has in the few months that I have had it. Got the carb adjustments down perfect, it would idle and run just fine. I could shut it off, and it would start right back up.

Went back out the next day, and could get it to start, but could not keep it running for nothing. Banging on the top of the carb would help for it run for 10 to 20 seconds, and then not run again. I have removed the carb multiple times, monkeying with the seat, it appeared to be sticking in the up position. Talked with a buddy at work, who called his dad up who worked on these things years ago. He claims the needle sticking is an issue with these. He said to remove some material from the 3 edges of the needle.

I took the needle from .201" down to about .185". Put it back in the seat, and it had plenty of room and did not seem to "bind" up in it. Put the carb back on the tractor, and still won't run right. Took the carb back off, and sanded a tiny bit of the plastic tip of the needle off. Put the carb back on, and all kinds of fuel flow now. Pouring out of the carb now.

Any helpful ideas from anyone? Going to try another new needle, and if that doesn't fix it, and may just replace the carb with an new one. I have found an aftermarket one for $200.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Soundguy]

new needle.. that sanded one won't be worth a penny. Clean out the chamber the needle rides in with carb cleaner.

double check fuel flow.

 

[GA2000]

new needle.. that sanded one won't be worth a penny. Clean out the chamber the needle rides in with carb cleaner.

double check fuel flow.

Yep, plenty of fuel flow, with the sanded needle, it was overflowing the carb. Went and got a new needle this afternoon, and was about .002" narrower than the sanded one. I was able to get it to idle for about 30 seconds at a time, but that is all. Also, the seat is new as well, as well as the sediment bowl. I even blew out the passages in the carb, no trash that I could see. I thought about buying a dremel tool so see if I could polish up the walls of the seat. I have also checked the float height as well. It is good. Plenty of spark at the plugs as well.

Maybe I will try another new seat as well.

 

[Soundguy]

thru setting the float a little lower. ie. .28 off the gasket surface.

 

[GA2000]

thru setting the float a little lower. ie. .28 off the gasket surface.

I will try that, sitting at about .26 right now.

 

[GA2000]

Update: Between being on vac, and work, haven't been able to mess with my tractor all that much. Reset the float height in the old carb to .290" - .300". The tractor would start and idle for about a minute, then shut off. Got the new carb, and installed, and tractor won't do anything. Check fuel bowl, plenty of fuel, got spark, remove air hose from carb, got suction. Bang on carb, would get it to almost start, but not quite.

Start doing lot's of internet forum research, and remembered my ign coil was burning hot at one time. So swapped it out with a new one, plenty of spark now. Did I mention that the top of the old one was cracked almost all the way around the top? Still won't start. Back to more research, and talking with a buddy, my resistor is not wired in before the ignition coil. Buddy says I need the resistor wired in. Do some more reading, and come across an article about ign coil needs 3 ohm resistance. Back to NAPA, get a coil with an internal resistor in it.

Put it in, pull a plug to check the spark, and whoa! She fires off on just 3 cylinders!. Shut it off, put plug back in, and start it up. It will idle pretty good, but will die off as soon as I put throttle to it. The coil I now have is PN IC-14, with the # 905 on the side of it. It does say no external resistor required on the side of it. The NAPA guy could not tell me how much resistance it has.

So my question is, do I need to rewire in the resistor, and/or is there a different coil that I need to be using. Seems like I am getting closer on this thing, just not there yet. I have the big knob on the carb at 1 1/8th out, and the small one at 1 turn out.

 

[Soundguy]

Napa ic14sb is a 16$ coil and us native 12v, no resistor needed, nor does it have a resistor internally.. It should measure out 3 to 3.5 ohms

 

[GA2000]

Napa ic14sb is a 16$ coil and us native 12v, no resistor needed, nor does it have a resistor internally.. It should measure out 3 to 3.5 ohms

Not sure what the sb stands for, but it was $36. What is causing the coil to get scalding hot? I didn't check the latest one to see how hot it was while it was running. The 2nd coil I had also got scalding hot that you couldn't touch it. I've read several places now that say to use a coil with 3 ohms of resistance.

 

[Soundguy]

SB means don't charge the customer an extra 29$ for the same coil

 

[GA2000]

Ain't that the truth!

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. our local store charges 46$ for an IC14 and 16$ for an IC14SB

both coils are electrically identical. the cheap one has a plain box. the othe rone has a nice colored box.

 

[GA2000]

Update: Doing some more research, and read somewhere that a bad coil will make the condensor go bad. So was trying to remove the points/condensor, and ended up breaking the metal conduit tap that goes from the points to the stud on the side of the distributer. Crap.. ended up ordering a Pertronix electronic ignition for $81.

Got it last night, and reading the directions, and it says that the 4 cyclinder needs the external resistor wired in, or an ign coil with at least 3 ohms of resistance. Measured the my latest coil, and it has 3.5 ohms of resistance. The install on the Pertronics was super easy. Have to see if your distributer turns clockwise or counter clockwise, to set the plate in the correct holes. Got it wired up, and hit the switch.

WOW! No hesitation at all, it fired right up. Running perfect, but I am wondering for how long?? Run it up to speed a couple times, let it idle for about 10 minutes, and then gave the girls a ride around the yard. This is the best it has run since I bought it. Now to tackle the hyd lift issue...

 

[Soundguy]

wherever you read that the coil causes condensor problems. i'd stop reading there... their information seems questionable at best!

 

[GA2000]

I either ready it here, or on yesterdaystractors. I know it runs pretty good now though. Points were set, not sure how to use my meter to tell if the condensor was bad or not though.

 

[Soundguy]

i've seen plenty of electrical advice on both forums that makes an engineer grasp their chest in pain. Just have to pick out then VERIFY the correct info.

In a dc system with no chance to excede the dielectric voltage range of the capacitor.. and no AC voltage present.. then HEAT is about the only natural enemy of a capacitor..

unless you find one bloaded or leaking, or with a damaged pig tail.. they are pretty steady unless HEFR/IM units got thru.