Ford 2000 mid 60's model.

[sarrazin]

Hello,
First I would like to say thanks to the people that welcomed me to the forum.
I have a ford 2000 late 60's model, and the hydraulics seems to have packed in.
I have read on this forum about the filter under the seat, and am trying to get at it. I have undone all the bolts but the top wont budge, and I am reluctant to force it too much in case there is something I am not understanding. Is there any special knack to it, is there anything else I should have removed other than the bolts and the lifting arm?
Sorry if this question has been answered before but I have looked but can't see that there is anything in forum replies which would indicate any specific difficulty.
Thanks.

 

[Soundguy]

first. the title says mid 60 and the post says late 60.

tere are significant differences in the 3 cyl 65+ models and the prior 4 cyl.

the later have the filter.

you have to remove the perimeter bolts from the top cover , plus any valve banks ontrhe cover, and get the toplink rocker free.

done that?

a 2x4 and bottle jack propped under the elboy of a upper lift arm and a lil pressure usually lets it loose IF you have got all the bolts out.

some prev owner may have plut gasket glue on instead of relying on dry gasket and orings for a seal... and this is why you don't do that

post back

 

[sarrazin]

first. the title says mid 60 and the post says late 60.

tere are significant differences in the 3 cyl 65+ models and the prior 4 cyl.

the later have the filter.

you have to remove the perimeter bolts from the top cover , plus any valve banks ontrhe cover, and get the toplink rocker free.

done that?

a 2x4 and bottle jack propped under the elboy of a upper lift arm and a lil pressure usually lets it loose IF you have got all the bolts out.

some prev owner may have plut gasket glue on instead of relying on dry gasket and orings for a seal... and this is why you don't do that

post back

Hello,
Yes, I noticed that I had gone from mid to late after I had posted. The thing is my logbook says one thing and the local dealer another.

It is the 3 cylinder model, so does this mean there is no filter under the seat?

I have removed all the bolts that you mention, and have used a long pry bar to lift the cover, to no avail.

It is possible the cover has either never or at least rarely been lifted as the blue paint on the bolts and around the joint looks undisturbed.

If I don't have a filter then I suppose it must be the pump.

Thanks for getting back to me.

Jim.

 

[Soundguy]

no, as I mentioned.. the 3 cyl came with a filter.

it is possible the top cover has never been off.. or it's possible someone glued it on.

use the jack and piece of wood and lift up under the elbow of an upper lift arm and get some stiff pressure on it and then just walk away for a while. let mass / gravity be your friend for a bit. do double check that all bolts are out of the perimeter of the top cover. includign those on the hyd blank cover / valve band at the right front.

post back

 

[sarrazin]

I did exactly what you said, and the top came off beautifully. Thank you.
I drained all the oil out to see what was there, and I cannot see any filter. The interior is pretty clean and in good condition.
Everything seems OK. There is a bit of sludge here and there, so tomorrow I will flush everything out with diesel and blow through the flow and return pipes with air.
I don't know what else I can do so if that doesn't work I am back to looking at the pump.
Either way, I am grateful for the help as I wouldn't have thought of using a jack to lift the top.
If you can think of anything else I should be doing, please let me know.
Thanks again, and Kind regards,
Jim.

 

[Soundguy]

clean it out good. someone may have went in there before you and yanked it offalready and not bothered replacing it I guess.

once you got it clean in there, add oil and if you are adventourous.. crnk her up and see if you have flow.. might want a piece of cardboard raady as an oil deflector...

yep.. the jack trick usually works for simply stuck gasket. if they are glued on, sometimes you have to drive a paint scraper in there to pop them off.. i try to do other things first to prevent from amring the deck.. though only a small portion of it actually 'seals' oil pressure.

post back

post back

 

[kf4uda]

Here is a link to the parts breakdown that shows the filter. It is item #50.

Official New Holland Online Parts Store and Online Parts Catalog for New Holland and Ford Tractors.

 

[Soundguy]

the intake is #60

 

[kf4uda]

I stand corrected and maybe half blind

 

[sarrazin]

Hi,
Looking more closely, and following the diagram,(thank you for that) there is a filter! It's a lot further in than I thought. It is underneath the 2 shafts, and goes right underneath the axle housing. It is impossible to see but I can feel it with my fingertips.
At the moment I am swilling the housing out with diesel and blowing it with a pressure hose, and trying to reach the filter with a small brush. I can't see how to get it out. What a place to put a filter.
I was wondering, if this doesn't work, if I made a small hole in the suction pipe, before the filter, to give it a bit of help? I know that it is probably sacrilege to do this but when all else fails, why not.I will probably get shot for this if I ever get to the US and meet up with anyone from this forum!
Anyway, I am draining it out as we speak, and having a quick beer, and will repeat the operation in a little while.
The wife is shouting at me as I am covered in oil and sitting in the kitchen. What a life.

 

[Soundguy]

on the suction filter.. what happens is they usually get clogged with emulsigied oil and water slime.

what i have done is use diesel and alcohole and continually rinsed and re rinsed the sump.. and it disolves the sslime and lets it flow thru again...

yeah.. swell place for a filter.

x600 design with a spin on filter under the floorboard was a much better deal..

 

[sarrazin]

Hello again,
I did a version of what you suggested. I emptied the sump, and filled it with light oil/petrol. The I made a bung and drilled a hole in it, pushed it in to the suction pipe at the pump end, fixed up a compressed air hose and blew back into the sump down the pipe.. I repeated this numerous times, left it overnight, then emptied the sump whilst blowing air down the pipe. After this, and refilling, the hydraulics worked while I was operating the starter! Hows. that for a difference.
So now my tractor is working as it should.
Good advice from you there mate.
Thanks very much, much obliged.
Kind regards to all,
Jim.

 

[Soundguy]

glad you got it.

have fun and post back

 

[Graemet]

Hello,

I have a Dexta and a Ford 2000 3 cyl. petrol with the hydraulic pump attached to the left rear of engine driven by camshaft? I was told that these pumps can lose their prime if sitting for awhile. The 2000 has a front end loader on it with a seperate oil supply tank up by loader control bank which I was told to keep when I reconnected the rear hydraulics which had been disconnected prior to me getting it.

 

[sarrazin]

Sounds like a useful system.My front hydraulics can take a little while to start to work, although a lot less time now that my hydraulics are in better shape!

 

[Graemet]

The way I hook it up was using a flexible suction from diff end with a shut valve then bought the oil from loader tank with shut off valve into this that goes to the suction side of pump. On pressure side it over to the loader controls with two hydraulic valves to shut off the flow to loader controls and open pressure line to rear.