Ford 3000 - Blueish hue smoke story / question

   / Ford 3000 - Blueish hue smoke story / question
  • Thread Starter
#61  
I wonder what happens when either and intake heaters get together?:D

hahaha i dont know thta i would WANT to find out. did these tractors come stock with heaters on them or something?
 
   / Ford 3000 - Blueish hue smoke story / question #62  
Block heaters are on many; didn't you say you had an electrical wire hanging out of block?
 
   / Ford 3000 - Blueish hue smoke story / question #63  
My opinion of ether best not said on this board, due to family readers. If everyone was a sailer, I might say it, but otherwise, best left unsaid. However, when the temperature gets below 25 I am usually not outside trying to start an open station tractor, unless something pretty important has come up, and usually that isn't the case. The tractor guys that use their tractors for moving snow and ice have my utmost condolences!
David from jax (where it is usually warm!)

Try to wean it off ether before you accidently blow something up!
 
   / Ford 3000 - Blueish hue smoke story / question #64  
hahaha i dont know thta i would WANT to find out. did these tractors come stock with heaters on them or something?

My 5000 has a factor intake heater..

soundguy
 
   / Ford 3000 - Blueish hue smoke story / question #65  
My 5000 has a factor intake heater..

soundguy

the intake heater is located on the intake manifold right at the curve where the hose slides on----many 3000's in the south came from the factory without heater---most have a plug to fill the threaded hole---you can add an intake heater into the manifold but you will have to add a new leakoff line for the injectors as a fuel source for the heater---it heats up and allows warm diesel to blow into the intake---you probably will need to add a push button as the old tractors did not have a preheater location on their key switch----some you can just change the key switch to a cold start switch and hook the wire that is taped up under the battery near the leakoff lines----I LOVE ETHER CAUSE I SELL TRACTOR PARTS:D:)
 
   / Ford 3000 - Blueish hue smoke story / question #66  
you probably will need to add a push button as the old tractors did not have a preheater location on their key switch----some you can just change the key switch to a cold start switch and hook the wire that is taped up under the battery near the leakoff lines----I LOVE ETHER CAUSE I SELL TRACTOR PARTS:D:)

Thousand series Ford diesels (and later) have a different key switch than the spark ignition tractors. The switch is thermostart capable regardless if the tractor is so equipped.
 
   / Ford 3000 - Blueish hue smoke story / question #67  
Thousand series Ford diesels (and later) have a different key switch than the spark ignition tractors. The switch is thermostart capable regardless if the tractor is so equipped.

Many of the old original Ford 3000 with cold start had a key switch that you had to turn to the left of off to heat the manifold heater---the newer 5 position switch E7nn11n501ac the cold start heats at position 4 and 5---many people have old 3000's and 4/5000's with cold start and don't even know it because they never turn the key to the left(counterclockwise)-----the new key switch will replace the old one ----but if it has not been replaced he may have a cold start heater and not know it. There are alot of 2/3/4000,2600/3600,23/26/3610's that were built and shipped to the south without cold start. They have the C5nn11n572---type switch (smaller in diameter)without the cold start terminals.Many DIESEL 3000's do not have cold start aid down here----when the motors get a little weak you have to add it to get them to crank in cool and cold weather----not much grass cutting going on down here in cool or cold weather so they don't need them very often.
 
   / Ford 3000 - Blueish hue smoke story / question #68  
My opinion of ether best not said on this board, due to family readers. If everyone was a sailer, I might say it, but otherwise, best left unsaid. However, when the temperature gets below 25 I am usually not outside trying to start an open station tractor, unless something pretty important has come up, and usually that isn't the case. The tractor guys that use their tractors for moving snow and ice have my utmost condolences!
David from jax (where it is usually warm!)

Try to wean it off ether before you accidently blow something up!


I feel the same way, but have moved the point down to "below -25F" :)
 
   / Ford 3000 - Blueish hue smoke story / question #69  
the intake heater is located on the intake manifold right at the curve where the hose slides on----many 3000's in the south came from the factory without heater---most have a plug to fill the threaded hole---you can add an intake heater into the manifold but you will have to add a new leakoff line for the injectors as a fuel source for the heater---it heats up and allows warm diesel to blow into the intake---you probably will need to add a push button as the old tractors did not have a preheater location on their key switch----some you can just change the key switch to a cold start switch and hook the wire that is taped up under the battery near the leakoff lines----I LOVE ETHER CAUSE I SELL TRACTOR PARTS:D:)

That's why i asked him back in post # 56 if he even had the plug in the manifold. got no response on that one.

i think I'd deffinately add the thermostart to that machine.. any lil bit helps..

soundguy
 
   / Ford 3000 - Blueish hue smoke story / question #70  
I decided to use a stratagy much like hockey refs use to break up fights in regards to this thread. (Let everyone wear out from throwing punches, then wade in ;) )


OK....My $.02 worth. Smoke is from worn rings/beat up ring lands from long term use and ether starting. That causes loss of compression, leads to poor starting. More ether needed to overcome poor starting. The problem snowballs.

I owned a gas 3000 for 35 years. Then I got a diesel 3000 to replace the gasser. The diesel was sold new in central Indiana. It DID NOT have engine pre-heater from factory. It cold started better than the gasser ever did, even with 35+ years, 4000+ hours on the clock. It had excellent compression and by original owners account, had never seen ether. (Some of us will not use the stuff. It's the equivilent of meth to a diesel engine IMHO)

If you'll be cold starting the engine frequently, a block heater is a good idea for a litany of reasons. Some diesels NEED them. Some can get by without. Manifold pre-heaters are a good thing on certain engines IF they help. Ether is bad. Ether is bad. Keep repeating that. Ether is bad.


Problems with CONTINUED use of an engine that's seen ether abuse; You CAN band-aide fix the problem by adding a heater to ease starting. Done early in the engines life, we wouldn't be having this conversation. It would have been a preventative measure then. Now it's a band aide. You CAN continue to run a worn engine. But there's a down side. Worn rings and worn out ring lands will wear cylinder walls MUCH faster than they should. Piston clearance adds up fast. That can (and will) lead to piston failure at some point. Then you have a door stop that was once an engine. I've seen diesels with 15,000 hours that still run. They might not implode, but they are a nuisance to start, waste fuel and oil, and are unpleasant to operate (smoke...) The ultimate solution would be to re-ring it as soon as is practical. You MIGHT save the engine with a small (relative to total engine replacement) investment now. It MIGHT need pistons too. (if ring lands are worn beyond service limits)

What I'd do; I buy tractors for one of TWO reasons. To use or to sell for profit. If I buy to use, I generally try to find ones that are in good condition and don't need costly repairs. If I buy to sell, the LAST thing I want to do is invest MORE money that I have to. That said, I've got burned a time or two and ended up with worn out engines. In those cases, I pull 'em down, check wear (rings, pistons, cylinder bore, bearings, cam, ect) Then replace what needs to be replaced. Next step is to recognize any possible reasons why they wore out prematurely. (ie cavatation/electraulysis, ether, poor maintenance, EXCESSIVE COLD STARTING, ect) and rectify that situation. If that means installing a block heater, then that's the next course of action. But if I plan on USING the tractor, or representing it as a tractor capable of being used when I try to sell it, I'd ALWAYS want the problem fixed and NOT just put a tourniquet on to stop the severe bleeding.

Your results may vary. I just like to fix things right so I can end up with a dependable tractor.
 

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