Ford 3000 For Sale Advice

[carpenter183]

Hey guys, I came across this tractor in craigslist the other day. It was listed for $3500, but after talking to the seller, I got his "rock bottom" price out at $3000. He doesn't know the year (Nor do I) and he acquired the tractor through a trade (a goose-neck trailer, he is a trailer salesman)

I need something that I can maintain a ten acre duck hole with. I wanted to get something that was not too heavy to trailer and easy to maneuver around the hunting camp. I am not an expert on tractors, but I am mechanically inclined somewhat. I need your help in identifying what to look for in buying this old 3000.

Things I observed:

-it cranked right up both times I tried. No billowing smoke or hiccups. I drove it around the parking lot using High and Low range settings in various speeds.
-the hydraulic arms moved up and down (at least with the weight of a 250 .lbs man)
-the clutch didn't have any play/jumps/problems I could tell. All the gears i tried worked ok
-there is a pretty bad leak under the driver's seat (you can see in the pics. it looks like its coming from the rear transmission seal?)
- The PTO spun freely as much as I could tell with no seal leaks or worn bearings

Questions I have:

What year model is this?
(I tried to get a pic of the serial numbers, but I was unsure of where to look. Hopefully I took a pic of the right area. I know its in the '65- early 70s range)

What could be the cause of the leak in that area?

What repair cost would be?

Is it worth the trouble at $3000?

*The leak is the only thing that scares me. I may go back and try to take some more pics or video and post it on youtube.


Here are the pics I took:

I probably should have gotten down on my knees and took a pic directly under the tractor to show a better view, but this is all I have to show of the leak.

Thank you in advance for your advice

Carpenter

 

[jlsmith]

Dont look to bad. A few minor leaks but didnt c anything major. 3k is not a bad price and it looks to have good rubber around it. Ive seen go for around 3500 to 4k around here

 

[sweettractors]

Looks like a buy from what you write and what I can see in the pictures. Make sure there is no slobering at the exaust manifold area. This would indicate piston ring problems. Put the tractor in a higher gear, rev the engine to full RPM and slowly let out on the clutch while holding the brakes. This should stall out the tractor completely. If not, the clutch is out of adjustment or just out. Ken Sweet

 

[carpenter183]

After researching the serial/model number, this tractor is a 1970 model made in England.

 

[Opti-Mist]

That would have been my guess as it looks like a 6-speed trans (oops, not possible), which was never in production in the states, and a generator which makes it before the mid-70's.

There should be a hole in the bottom of the bell housing which has a cotter pin in it, jiggle pin to keep the hole open. If the oil is leaking from this hole it is probably the rear main seal leaking.

Being UK made is no disadvantage, the parts are still the same.

 

[whodat526]

it is a good price if it is a 8 speed and has a two stage clutch if it is not i wouldn't touch it cause all it really is is a diesel 8n

 

[whodat526]

and if u buy it make sure u check the oil in the injection pump

 

[Soundguy]

dash tag seems to indicate an 8spd.. and preferably it is an 8 with a double clutch.

at 3000$ it's a steal, even with no ps and the input shaft seal leak it likely has.. that's a split and a 3 $ seal.. you could pay to get it fixed and be 500-1000$ ahead of what you could buy that tractor for down here.

as another poster said.. if there is more diesel than oil in the inline ... it means it was not serviced good... still.. if it starts good.. the injector pump is working.

I have a 'c' make of that same tractor.. mine's a 68. has weak brakes.. but otherwise they are real good units

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

it is a good price if it is a 8 speed and has a two stage clutch if it is not i wouldn't touch it cause all it really is is a diesel 8n

that's quite absurd!

even if it was a twin stick 6 spd with non live pto, it gives you more ranges and ground speeds than an 8n. the 3 cyl engines are very good.. and for hp.. that upper 30's 3000 is much more machine than a N, NAA, or 6XX series.

better rear axle, better hubs, WAY better live hyds and lift capacity, way easier to get hyd remotes, way newer than the newest 8n as well.

heck.. i'd go for a 4spd 3000 over an 8n -any- day.. even one with a hokie holley carb. it's just way more machine in not much bigger package.

not much on a 3000 that is not BETTER than an 8n...

soundguy

 

[MBDiagMan]

What you have is a late 3000 with a plastic grille although an early version of the later model. I have an early, aluminum grille 3000. I really don't understand how anyone could call it an 8N unless they are only referring to the PTO behavior.

If it turns out to be the rear seal it's not that bad of a job if you have enough jacks or other equipment that could be used to split it. I've split mine, but I have an overhead walking beam that I tied the front section to and simply moved it forward.

I too think that it is worth $3000. These are very solid tractors. I've had mine for 23 years and have worn it right into the ground. I overhauled it about 10 years ago, but now with P/S problems, charging problems and other ills I am replacing it with a new JD 5045D. The Ford is like an old buddy and I hate to see it go, but there's a time for everything.

It's an ideal size tractor for 10 acres. I ran mine alot harder than that. I used to run a swather and a baler with it. It was really overtaxed running the baler, but it did it with no complaints. I absolutely wore out a 6 foot shredder that it could run all day long which reminds me to mention, these tractors are real fuel misers. I could run it HARD all day long on much less than the 13 gallons in the tank.

Hope this helps,