Ford 3000, steering and leaks at clutch

[Ultradog MN]

OK, Now I get it.
But no cover plate there - that's what threw me off.
If you have leaks at the brake and clutch cross shaft it often does no good to just replace the seals. Often the shaft is worn as are the bushings inside the housing. When you disassemble to replace the seals inspect the shaft closely for wear.

 

[Steave]

This is my first time sending pictures (Not computer savy)

Maybe this diagram of the brake/clutch shaft will help. It's a little confusing at first because it don't show the clutch pedal on the left side but it does show the bushings Ultradog told you about #19. I haven't been able to find a source online to get the bushings. There is also another bushing shown #20 but that's on the inside of the brake pedal itself. # 19 is called a brake shaft bushing and #20 is called a brake pedal bushing when you are asking for parts.

These parts are not very expensive. Your local dealer should have no problem getting them for you.

View attachment 264312

 

[Ultradog MN]

Good job on the picture Steave.
When I am looking for parts like that brake shaft I will usually go to Newholland website and do a parts search for it.
They will show the cnh part # there.
I copy the part# and paste it into google.
Usually I will find several places that sell it and can pick the best price or best shipping options, etc.
That shaft is D1NN2473B
Here is the google search for it.

- Google Search

 

[Steave]

Good job on the picture Steave.
When I am looking for parts like that brake shaft I will usually go to Newholland website and do a parts search for it.
They will show the cnh part # there.
I copy the part# and paste it into google.
Usually I will find several places that sell it and can pick the best price or best shipping options, etc.
That shaft is D1NN2473B
Here is the google search for it.

- Google Search

Thanks for the information. Seems like a good way to look up parts. I'm sure it'll be helpful to me and hope it helps the original poster.

Good luck to you AV8R737

 

[AV8R737]

Ultradog and Steave -thank you for your advice! Both so helpful already. Being new to tractors I certainly appreciate the advice. Ultradog, your reputation precedes you - on the new members forum someone just posted on my new guy thread that you are very knowledgable on these tractors so I appreciate the input. I hope I don't drive you crazy, I am going to have lots of q's, I'm seeing that my tractor has way more issues than my inexperienced pre-purchase inspection thought.

So now onto a few of those Q's-
1. Any advice on where to get the after market power steering cylinder?
2. Should I use oem fuel/oil filters or is aftermarket parts ok?
3. I plan to drain all fluids and replace, what brands do you recommend -and any "gotchas" with any of these ideas that you can warn me about.
4. I also had multiple fuel leaks on the tractor, I am going to drain the fuel, replace the fuel shutoff, and have to replace the fuel line from the filter to the cav pump, and am replacing the fuel return line from the injectors to the tank. While fuel is out - anything else I should do.

 

[Ultradog MN]

1,
Most any Tisco dealer will sell them. Ask your local Napa etc if they sell
Tisco. The cylinders are all the same from 1955 till at least 1982. You want the one with the 7/16" rod not the 5/8" rod. They are pricey - $240?

2,
I don't know what part of the country you are located but around here we have Fleet Farm stores. They have most any ag type filter you will need. Look it up in the book by model.

3,
Most of us on other boards are running a 15W40 diesel rated engine oil. Most any brand is good. For tranny, and rear end use Hytrans or UTF that meets Ford 134D specs. It will say meets or exceeds Ford 134D in smaller print on the label. Same oil for tranny, rear end, power steering and loader if you have them. One jug to keep stocked for topping off all 4 reservoirs.

4, Fuel line from the filter to the pump can easily made up by going to Napa, etc and using brake line. Bring your old one along to get the right fittings.
Injector return lines use just ordinary fuel line (I forget the size 3/16?). I like to go to the hardware store and buy the little spring type hose clamps that you use a pliers to open. Makes for a nice clean job.

 

[AV8R737]

Thanks Ultradog - I will use your advice for sure, by the way I'm located about 1 hour east of Cleveland, OH, no farm and fleet, but we do have a good Napa store and also Tractor Supply. Anyway- work calls and a honey-do list so it's going to be a few days before I get going on any more tractor "stuff".

Once again -Thank you!

 

[Steave]

Good job on the picture Steave.
When I am looking for parts like that brake shaft I will usually go to Newholland website and do a parts search for it.
They will show the cnh part # there.
I copy the part# and paste it into google.
Usually I will find several places that sell it and can pick the best price or best shipping options, etc.
That shaft is D1NN2473B
Here is the google search for it.

- Google Search

I used your method of looking up parts today. I like it! Thanks