Ford 3500 Three Cylinder Diesel Simms Injection Pump Removal For Rebuild

[firstfruitsfarm]

I have posted about leaks from this P4665 pump before, but the situation now is so bad that it needs a rebuild. Has anyone removed this before (front end loader attached)? Do I have to remove the radiator and manifold to get to all of the mounting bolts? I have the front and rear covers off (but not the front cover housing) and the flywheel at 19 degrees BTDC on the intake stroke and everything else disconnected. Getting wrenches on all the mounting bolts has me stuck. If anyone has done this before, I could benefit from a detailed disassembly procedure to access and remove the pump.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

I have posted about leaks from this P4665 pump before, but the situation now is so bad that it needs a rebuild. Has anyone removed this before (front end loader attached)? Do I have to remove the radiator and manifold to get to all of the mounting bolts? I have the front and rear covers off (but not the front cover housing) and the flywheel at 19 degrees BTDC on the intake stroke and everything else disconnected. Getting wrenches on all the mounting bolts has me stuck. If anyone has done this before, I could benefit from a detailed disassembly procedure to access and remove the pump.

What makes you think it needs a rebuild ?

 

[firstfruitsfarm]

Constant steady leaking.

 

[TractorTech]

The mounting bolts are definitely difficult to get to. You don’t have to take the radiator out, but you do have to remove the lower radiator hose.
Did you raise the loader and prop it up with a pair of angle iron props?

 

[firstfruitsfarm]

I have removed one end of the lower radiator hose, to get to the front pump cover. I have not removed the housing that the cover is bolted to. Is that necessary? My biggest question is where and how many the bolts are that mount the pump to the engine. I can see two: one on the right and one beneath. Is there one on the left under the manifold and in the small gap between the pump and the block? If so, the only way to get to it has to be removing the manifold. I have not raised the loader and propped it. The biggest impediment is the main frame of the loader, which doesn't move. Thanks for your help, TractorTech.

 

[thepumpguysc]

There’s another bolt on the back side of the pump, it mounts in a triangle pattern..(3)
There’s a timing mark on the pump and drive hub inside where the drive hub bolts are..at 12-1:00. (Inside)

 

[TractorTech]

thepumpguysc beat me to it, but what housing are you talking about? There is a cover, pointed to in the attachment, that you need to take off, but that's it.

 

[thepumpguysc]

U have to remove the cover IN FRONT of the inj pump to access the 3 bolts that connects the pump to the drive gear..
IDK if u can get your head in there but there’s timing lines.. you’ll have to look thru a hole in the gear at 12-1:00..
If u can’t see them, if your SURE u on compression stroke..(u can pull the side cover on the pump and check to see if #1 tappet on the pump is rising)
You’ll see the timing marks when you pull the pump off.
& line them up on installation.

 

[firstfruitsfarm]

I have removed the cover (38 in the drawing). The "housing" I referred to above is 25 front engine cover in the drawing--not to be removed. So, if I remove only the three bright bolts that connect the pump to the drive gear, the pump will come out? Will the drive gear and the keyway stay where they are after removal? I will check the tappet, but I have put some white paint where the gears mesh, since I can't see the marks because of the radiator/shroud. I will try to see with a mirror. I'm confident I have the flywheel right and the marks on the back end right as described above. Pumpguy, I might have to ship this pump to you for rebuild once I get it out. Hearty thanks to both Tractortech and thepumpguysc for great responses.

 

[TractorTech]

That's right, the housing stays. When you unbolt the gear, the gear stays put. You need to make sure that #1 is on compression and look at the #1 tappet on the pump is rising like pumpguy said.
You should also look at the flywheel on the RH side next to the oil pan for the timing marks in the window under a flap held in place by one screw if you can't see the marks on the pump gear