Ford 3910 FWD front axle repairs

[ovrszd]

Ouch- Ford parts seem to be all over the map... the entire cast front axle support for my 1967 3000 is $120 less than just the bushing you mentioned?? then again- checked the same revised part for the 1970 + model and it is $666 Wow

Luck of the draw I guess?


The Ford 10 and 30 series Ford 4x4 tractors are some of my all time favorites.

Nice job on the front axle rebuild:thumbsup:

I hear ya. An example is the thrust washers. One goes between the cast housing and the axle housing in the front and another in the rear. Looking at them, they are the same outside diameter, same thickness. Only difference is the inside diameter on the front one is about 1/4" smaller making the washer surface a bit larger. One is $44, the other is $78.

This is the first 10 series I've been around. My experiences were with the 1970's and earlier tractors. The only thing I've noticed about this tractor, being that it's British, is a constant change back and forth between metric and standard sized bolts/nuts. Might as well get out both sets of wrenches before you start cause you're gonna need em.

Thanks for the compliment.

 

[sixdogs]

The type of grease may be important and I would think a moly-lithium is what's called for. Let me also mention Deere polyurea grease. It's their top of the line grease and is very thick so it has important filling characteristics. When I used it in a sloppy loader bucket, things firmed right up. This may be the ticket if you need to fill any worn metal gaps on the round bearing surface that looks scored. A lot of big construction operators around here use it as their only grease.

I did a thread on this grease a while back. If interested and you can't find it, let me know.

What a great tractor that is. You should never sell it but if you do call me first.

 

[ovrszd]

I'll check into that grease. Good advice.

I think it'll be a good second tractor for light work compared to the M9540. I wasn't looking for a 4wd but glad I found one. I'm in the Timber a LOT. I'd either be stuck or have to leave it set when conditions are slick. Didn't want to do either.

I generally like the personality of these Ford tractors. My wife frowns a bit when she sees the parts tickets. I tell her it's like a savings account. Money invested today will easily hold it's value and probably grow. I'll never sell it. My Boys drool a bit when they see it but they try to hide that. They'll inherit a good little tractor that will serve them well.

I'm in the process of breaking it in half to replace the rear main seal. Building a stand on wheels to assist in moving the front half. Taking pictures of course. I'll start a thread.

 

[sixdogs]

Can't wait for that thread. Thanks.

 

[RickB]

I hear ya. An example is the thrust washers. One goes between the cast housing and the axle housing in the front and another in the rear. Looking at them, they are the same outside diameter, same thickness. Only difference is the inside diameter on the front one is about 1/4" smaller making the washer surface a bit larger. One is $44, the other is $78.

This is the first 10 series I've been around. My experiences were with the 1970's and earlier tractors. The only thing I've noticed about this tractor, being that it's British, is a constant change back and forth between metric and standard sized bolts/nuts. Might as well get out both sets of wrenches before you start cause you're gonna need em.

Thanks for the compliment.

That's not because it's British. It's due to taking a basic early 1960's engineered & designed tractor and throwing layers of improvements & changes at it over 3 decades, many outsourced assemblies and/or components. Late model Fords built in Michigan are no different, in fact the Mexican Fords aren't either.

 

[ovrszd]

That's not because it's British. It's due to taking a basic early 1960's engineered & designed tractor and throwing layers of improvements & changes at it over 3 decades, many outsourced assemblies and/or components. Late model Fords built in Michigan are no different, in fact the Mexican Fords aren't either.

That's probably true Rick. I was thinking European influence equaled metric. :confused3:

Edit: Come to think of it, examples of standard bolts are in the cast pieces such as the front assembly that the axle fastens to and the cast bellhousing. Both of which would be items that, as you said, are probably way older than the 1984 manufactured date of the tractor.

 

[sixdogs]

How did all this end up? Is there any slop in the front pivot or any oil leaks? Are you happy with things?

 

[ovrszd]

I've not had an opportunity to run the tractor yet, but no leaks sitting in the shop. Before oil constantly dripped on the floor. The pivot seems a lot tighter, even with the grooved housing that I reused. And no drips on the floor.

I've since broke it in half and replaced the clutch and rear main seal. Took some pics so will start a new thread.

Also converted the exhaust to horizontal, I'll post about that too.

Thanks for inquiring.

 

[TractorTech]

Ovrszd, nice rebuild job on axle. I just wanted to add that theses axles, built by Carraro, with the reversing gearbox need to be kept greased on the back bushing to keep oring lubed and dirt away from the oring.
We often machined the gearbox to accept a lip seal in lieu of the thin oring on 445 and 545 tractors, which are lower to the ground, to extend the life of the joint.

 

[ovrszd]

Ovrszd, nice rebuild job on axle. I just wanted to add that theses axles, built by Carraro, with the reversing gearbox need to be kept greased on the back bushing to keep oring lubed and dirt away from the oring.
We often machined the gearbox to accept a lip seal in lieu of the thin oring on 445 and 545 tractors, which are lower to the ground, to extend the life of the joint.

Very good advice. Clean grease pumped out against the O-ring is the only thing I can see that will allow it to do it's job and survive long term. From the wear marks I found I believe this tractor had been ran with very little grease.

Only mistake I made was I pumped everything full of regular gun grease. Then I was advised on here to use poly-urea grease. So I bought a tube and forced out all the cheap grease I could. Wish I'd investigated that a little more before assembly.

I'm a grease nut so not worried about running any of it dry, just gotta remember to use a quality product.

Thanks for the technical advice. Every time I post a thread about a project on TBN I end up being the one to learn something.