Ford 3910 Injector Pump removal/install

[TractorTech]

Very, very difficult to dislodge the gear and get it to skip a tooth on a Ford BSD like yours, but it is important to not take timing and pump removal lightly.
Nice presentation.
One other thing to note when bleeding the CAV pump on a Ford BSD 3 or 4 cylinder engine. You must have at least 1/2 a tank of fuel to get it to bleed. Less than that you'll swear there is a blockage in the fuel system somewhere.

 

[ovrszd]

Very, very difficult to dislodge the gear and get it to skip a tooth on a Ford BSD like yours, but it is important to not take timing and pump removal lightly.

Yep, I agree. Took me a few seconds to mark a tooth. Would have taken hours to fix a skip.

 

[sixdogs]

More fine photos and description that is helpful. Your front end bushing replacement and clutch R&R are classics on a rare tractor in FWA.

 

[jacain]

Awesome post Richard! My pump has the top cover leak from either the throttle shaft or fuel shutoff shaft. Was thinking about taking care of it with the pump in the tractor, but now I might just remove it to make it much easier. Going to pull my injectors and have them pop tested too as I feel like one of them may be sticking or firing at the wrong time. It's pretty apparent at idle as there is a fair amount of lope. The injector shop near my work said they will test them for free, but my buddy said he has a tester that I can borrow too. Might take him up on it just so I can learn how to use one.

Have you ever thought about going to a duel filter setup? Been contemplating this lately, especially if I have my injectors rebuilt.

Thanks again for the good post.

 

[ovrszd]

More fine photos and description that is helpful. Your front end bushing replacement and clutch R&R are classics on a rare tractor in FWA.

Thanks Six. I value your opinion.

 

[ovrszd]

Awesome post Richard! My pump has the top cover leak from either the throttle shaft or fuel shutoff shaft. Was thinking about taking care of it with the pump in the tractor, but now I might just remove it to make it much easier. Going to pull my injectors and have them pop tested too as I feel like one of them may be sticking or firing at the wrong time. It's pretty apparent at idle as there is a fair amount of lope. The injector shop near my work said they will test them for free, but my buddy said he has a tester that I can borrow too. Might take him up on it just so I can learn how to use one.

Have you ever thought about going to a duel filter setup? Been contemplating this lately, especially if I have my injectors rebuilt.

Thanks again for the good post.

You are welcome.

Thank you for the compliments.

Joe had asked me if my leak was at the shafts. He said they are pretty easy to fix in place. Bruce, the pump guy, said there's a modification that he makes to those shafts and seals to extend their leakproof life. He was talking over my understanding level so can't restate it.

As to filtering. I'll use high quality filters for sure. Don't think I'll double up. After seeing my pump internal failures I realize we have no protection from pump contamination.

 

[kevin37b]

Good post , nice job . Your old brain done ya good on that project !That tractor ought to be in good shape with the work you have done .

 

[ovrszd]

Good post , nice job . Your old brain done ya good on that project !That tractor ought to be in good shape with the work you have done .

Thanks Kevin.

My problem is I can't stand mechanical issues. Especially leaking issues.

I've had this tractor two years. Paid $8500 for it. Spent $2500 fixing issues and putting new rear tires on. Now I've spent another $1000 repairing the 3pt lift leaky cylinder, fuel gauge sender unit, new starter and this pump rebuild. It's a very dependable tractor that functions as it was intended. I put around 300 hours a year on it.

Today I'm working on replacing the hydraulic cooler lines because I don't like how they hang out there in danger of getting snagged.

My next project will be repairing a leaky outer rear axle seal. It doesn't leak enough to drip. Just makes an oily film on the axle flange. Gotta read up on that one a little. Think I have to remove the axle housing from the rear end case??

 

[ovrszd]

Very, very difficult to dislodge the gear and get it to skip a tooth on a Ford BSD like yours, but it is important to not take timing and pump removal lightly.
Nice presentation.
One other thing to note when bleeding the CAV pump on a Ford BSD 3 or 4 cylinder engine. You must have at least 1/2 a tank of fuel to get it to bleed. Less than that you'll swear there is a blockage in the fuel system somewhere.

Sorry, I missed your comment about fuel tank level. Joe schooled me on that before I started. I filled the tank. Thanks for the comment!!!

 

[fried1765]

Sorry, I missed your comment about fuel tank level. Joe schooled me on that before I started. I filled the tank. Thanks for the comment!!!

Such a job may be beyond my capabilities, but your attack on this problem has been an excellent learning experience for ME!
My little 1920 has less than 1100 hours, and adds only 20 hours or less each year, so I can only hope I will never need to attempt removing the injector pump.
Your documentation is INCREDIBLE!
ALL TBN members should thank you.
Any one of us could need that information at any time!